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It's a Foon.

Well, I was a little curious as to why they haven't moved for two days in such a weird spot.

what's the fun in that Rob?

Has anybody heard from these guys? I have been watching on APRS and Chris' truck hasn't moved in two days. I've also made some CQ's with no luck.

I remember when the tradition started. Curtis Littlefield and I were fixing our broken cv joints.

Damn I need a Utah trip. Can you guys just drop me off in Green River and pick me up in Hite? I'll kayak the way down. I really wish I could make it but my wife will be just going back to work and I'll be mr mom. Have a great trip.

Justin, I also read it a couple times and can't figure it out. If you have 4" of lift and stock radius arms, the axle is going to be leaning forward making it hard to get the panhard bolts in with the stock unit. I have never seen that frame mount bend, but I suppose anything is possible.

I use the Thule mounts with the slide pads on the rear and the cradle in the front. It's a 16.5' and it's not bad at all to get on and off. Maybe it's the length. http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10150216071569797&set=a.46772704796.54403.733909796&type=1

It's funny this thread came up. I was just out in North East Washington looking at properties. 35 acres high up in the foothills with a view of the Colombia River is pretty reasonable at the moment. For the last week I've been looking at log cabin kits and have found some pretty cool ones...

There's 5 drive flange bolts, 5 hub to rotor bolts, 6 spindle bolts, and 7 swivel ball bolts. What the hell are you talking about. I wouldn't feel good about any of them being only a couple threads in.

Nut and bolt to the coop with fender washers, and heavy duty zip ties to the rack. This setup has been proven strong enough for 2 weeks of Southern Utah wheeling.

looks awesome Andrew

Powertank makes a really nice nitro setup with the no loss valve. I bought a kit from polyperformance when I started building my buggy. It wasn't cheap but I just got tired getting bent over at the motorcycle shops to get shocks charged...

I never thought it could be hare. Interesting Rob, your brain never stops.

That's cool. But if the rack is junk it would be nice to have the feet. Just in case I get a wild hair up my ass to bend up a rack.

If you talk to him before Saturday, let me know what he says about the rack feet and clamps. I'll bring my band saw out there and chop it up for him. He can keep the rest of the junk for scrap. I'll PM you my cell.

I wouldn't mind the feet and clamps from the rack. Where is this junkyard exactly?

Luc, I think what everybody is telling you is to get your pinion angle squared away before go any further. You're going to need to do it anyway and it might be a simple solution to your problem. You do understand that the angles are completely wrong right?

Also you should be measuring your angles without the driveshaft on. Measure each flange. The angles should be the same putting that pinion much lower.

That angle is way off for a standard shaft. You're going to need to get a DC shaft for the rear and pull out some shims on the links if you have them to raise up the diff a little more. That angle looks pretty steep already to lower it and use a standard shaft.