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My 110, recently imported from the UK, is for sale. $12,500 for the truck alone, $15k with all the spares. Full details at the link. http://portland.craigslist.org/grg/cto/2490593244.html Truck is in White Salmon, WA (near Hood River), I can deliver to Portland for shipping. Contact me via...

I replaced the fuel pump ass'y in my '92 RRC last summer. It was a drop-in from AB, and the power plug was mis-wired, which I discovered after installation. The send wire for the fuel gauge and the power wire to the pump were swapped, so when I plugged it in it sent a full 12v to the fuel...

'92 RRC -- A/C has always worked well. Recently, A/C works well below 35 mph, and truck runs well. Above 35 mph, A/C works well and truck runs crappy -- bucks, coughs, chugs, generally runs like crap. Intake track is solid, mostly new rubber parts -- PCV hoses, tee fitting, flame trap clean...

The rear crank seal is leaking pretty bad now (at least I think so -- 2"-3" stain on the driveway every night), so I'd like to replace it. The service manual description of the job starts with "1. Remove engine." Huh-uh. I have a freshly rebuilt LT230 to install, and since I have to pull the...

I did the search, but didn't see this particular issue addressed. I'm putting the LT230 from an '88 RRC into my '92 RRC. I have seen comments about e-brake issues, but they all seem related to using the Disco e-brake in an RRC. I have the e-brake from the '88 and the one from my '92. I do...

The 5VZ-FE puts out similar oomph (190 hp/220 lbft) to a 3.9 or 4.0 Rover, out of a V6. Plus, a TRD blower will give at least another 50 hp and 50 lbft. I could pick up a rolled T100 4x4 with a complete drivetrain for about $2500 -- engine, trans, xfer case, axles... In effect, I could build...

I was looking at Thirsty's engine last night, pondering the infamous PCV "tee". When I bought this truck, all the PCV hoses and the ICV hose were brittle and cracked. I replaced them all, and in place of the plastic tee I made one of brass. I even put a solder plug in the fitting pointed to...

I'm pondering giving the ABS and hydro boost the boot and going to a conventional vacuum boost setup. Everything works fine, it's just the next evolution to trail-repairable simplicity. I know the obvious swap is Rover parts, either earlier RRC or Disco. What I am interested in knowing is if...

What are the differences between the front axle housing on a '95 D1 and a '92 RRC? I know the 3rd and axles are 24 spline vs. 10... Is this a direct swap? Off the top of my head I can't think of anything significant, which is another way of saying, I must be forgetting something...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oBfGVQjaizA&NR=1

Anyone know the measurement of the inside of a Jate ring off the top of their head? I'm talking about the distance between the inner faces of the mounting end. Thanks, (Edit) Never mind, I found it. 3.25", for the record.

I was surfing the internets last week and came upon a tech article that showed how to replace the unreliable RRC central lock control with two Bosch relays. Of course I forgot to bookmark it, and now I can't seem to find it again. Anyone else seen this, and know where it is?

A trip to the hardware store, about $20 and an hour later, and I've got quick disconnects for the front anti-roll bar. Parts: Two each -- 5/8" clevis pins, 5/8 i.d. washers, 3/4 x 1" brass flange (5/8 i.d.), 3/4 x 1 1/8" brass sleeve (5/8 i.d.), 3/16 ring lock pins. Reuse the 3/4" i.d...

In stock RR terms, the 4.0 is no great improvement over a 3.9 in performance, but -- it has the stronger bottom end, and (please correct me if I'm wrong) the upgraded "not as likely to leak" heads, right? I might be able to pick up a 4.0 for a reasonable price. What's the collective wisdom...

Well, at least to this board. No tech issues currently, so I thought I'd just say hello. Tony