GBR are not the only ones to have had this. Runout in the pinion was the problem in the case that I know of.
I agree Mongo, but whether its masked or not, its better than driving with the vib. From what I can work out the front shaft creates the vib when you wind the lift on. At this stage I'm...
I think you'll find factory rims easiest to deal with. The offset works with whatever tyre and you wont have the dilema of trying to chose which wheel nuts you want also.
Those steel rims are sold in Aus by Procomp - well, at least they look the same. If it is they are offset slightly and sit wider than the factory 16x7 rims (most d2's outside of NAS spec run on 16x7" rims) There is no prob with running the rims, but you'll notice on the first link at the top of...
Youll need to fit a bullbar or cut the standard bumper bar back. It'll look a bit silly with no lift. Most people here fit 265/75-16 which is very close to being the same diameter but has a broader treadface. The 265's will fit 16x7 and 16x8 rims
In the Disco2 you'll need to flip the carrier, but first try to loosen the bumper bolts and drop it as low as it'll go. When you flip the carrier you'll also need to redrill the centre hole on either side of the carrier and either clearance for the wiper or move the wiper arm by 1 spline for...
You lot all drive from the passengers seat. :D
In Aus the road camber is the opposite to what you have and the driver sits on the correct side of the vehicle. :cool: Also the driveline is offset a bit too, more notably in the TD5 which I dont think came in the NAS spec jiggers. If the springs...
I feel sorry for those without ACE. Its reliable and it works perfectly onroad and offroad. In Aus it was a $4000 option and worth every cent of it IMHO.
edit: Actually, I don't really feel sorry for those without ACE, its just that ACE is a better "best".
I think that the axles are much of a much, but probably ultimately a D1 axle can be built a little stronger than a D2's, but not many to ultimate buildups when its cheaper and stronger to swap in other axles which are a better starting point. The D1 and D2 just do some things differently with...
Yep, they're mine. I was going through a front shaft about every 17000km (11000mi?) which is 12months on the dot for me. I've now got Tom Woods 1310 shafts and they seem to be up to it. The rear rotoflex, I'd pop when I did something silly but thats been replaced with a uni shaft now. Although...
I did some very minor research into this and surveyed an Australian Disco2 forum re rotoflex failure and admittedly there were only 8 people that admitted rotoflex failures so some might question the validity, but the only thing that came from this, was that failures were almost always dependant...
The main culprit that sets up minor vibes and squeeks (like a little bird) is the front propshaft, notably the DC joint in it. These seem to fail often enough, they can snap out and if they do snap out at speed will also smash your transmission. To check it you can grab it and twist it to check...
It's ok like that. You need to start the engine and cycle it through all of the gears to get the ATF into the system. Then while in P and with the motor still running you check the ATF level through the fill hole.
Nice rack. :D
You'll find that the top of the B-pillar cracks from the rack. If you look at the construction you will see how/why it flexs to do this. I've already found this out.
With that lift you will go vib free if you keep the rotoflex coupling. As soon as you chnage to the unis you get vibrations. In terms of changing pinion angles, Superpro in Aus do a offset bush, and by all accounts in other Rover radius arm applcations they improve articulation over rubber due...
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