Water crossing gone bad...still doesn't start

Lutzgaterr

Well-known member
Apr 23, 2004
578
0
LUTZ, Florida
Shoot, forgot to hit on that last question.
"Is there something simple I am missing"?
Answer is yes, you are missing older simplicity due to complexity of the damn GEMS system. Some have gone back to carbs + dizzy to elude GEMS issues.
Waiting on guys like PT to chime in now since he and others often state the system is dead simple. Maybe, but that is only after you have strong knowledge, right diagnostic tools and spare parts to play with.
I am not there yet, but it is in the plans.

Anywho,
I guess I would step back and begin with the primary steps once again. It is a process you are getting to know well. A properly functioning ECU only eliminates one thing amoung many sensors I guess.
 
Let's get back to the basics (cue the Waylon and Willie).

What do we know beyond a shadow of a doubt?

The engine cranks. The engine does not run.

Does the fuel pump run? Is there fuel in sufficient volume and under sufficient pressure to run the engine?

Do we have spark at a plug wire that is disconnected from its spark plug?

Once we have the answers to these quesitons, we cna go further, but the questions I asked are pretty much the process I go through with every no-start condition I encounter.
 

AfiRover

Well-known member
Jul 5, 2004
934
5
48
RACE CITY INDY IN
ok

ill chime in and see if I can be of any help

on the fuse box inside the truck (on the front ) fuse side below the air bag junk you will find and white plug remove clean relpace trust me on this
 

Lake_Bueller

Well-known member
Aug 11, 2004
2,105
59
56
Beloit, WI
Fuel pump runs, haven't had time to get a pressure gauge for the fuel rail, definately no spark from the wire to the plug (tried multiple wires also).

Another point of interest (that I think may be important?), I can't get the ignition to the off position and remove the key without removing the #12 (mulit-function unit) fuse from the under dash panel.
 
Lake_Bueller said:
Another point of interest (that I think may be important?), I can't get the ignition to the off position and remove the key without removing the #12 (mulit-function unit) fuse from the under dash panel.

OK, this is now leading us some where. Get out your trusty ETM and look up the ignition lock assembly and find out why the solenoid isn't releasing the key. It might be the neutral start switch is messed up, it could be the lock cylinder is worn out.

But, we do know that the fuel pump is running. That gives up presumptive proof of having power to the ECU as the pump won't run without the ECU telling it to.
 

Lake_Bueller

Well-known member
Aug 11, 2004
2,105
59
56
Beloit, WI
ptschram said:
OK, this is now leading us some where. Get out your trusty ETM and look up the ignition lock assembly and find out why the solenoid isn't releasing the key. It might be the neutral start switch is messed up, it could be the lock cylinder is worn out.

But wouldn't that cause it to not even send power to the starter?

I'll be testing the fuel pressure and power to the coil in the next few days.
 

RamRod

Well-known member
Jun 20, 2008
103
0
Tampa, Florida
MUSKYMAN said:
cool...now run up to the head office and work out that quarterback situation before #4 ends up in Florida :D

Although I highly doubt its going to happen.... No one wants to play in some awesome to moderatly freezing weather.... Then come to 95 degree plus weather on a day to day basis

But hey it would be Damn cool to watch him come to town with the Buccaneers:drool:
 

AfiRover

Well-known member
Jul 5, 2004
934
5
48
RACE CITY INDY IN
not yet PT >>>>ok you need to check the "plug" on the front of your fuse box like I said before because it provides power to the coils as seen in page 51 of my rave

the "plug "in ? feeds fuse 3
now PT as we both know they are or should be hot untill switched by ground throu the ecu but they need to hot first before switching matters..

my brain fart for the day
afi



o to hell with it put on a truck send to paul and WE will have it puring soon oh i'd say with in the hour are you in paul ?????


if all else fails or HE does I can bring theese :rofl: :rofl:
 

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Lake_Bueller

Well-known member
Aug 11, 2004
2,105
59
56
Beloit, WI
I mentioned to Paul in a PM that I have power to the coil. The battery was reading 12.44v and the wires at the coil (both positive & negative) are reading 12.35v.

I'm also 99% positive that there is an issue with the neutral safety switch. Probably a sticking relay. I'm 1/2 way to getting that resolved also.

If I can't get this resolved in the next few weeks, I might bring it to a professional (and pay through the nose :banghead: )
 
Lake_Bueller said:
I mentioned to Paul in a PM that I have power to the coil. The battery was reading 12.44v and the wires at the coil (both positive & negative) are reading 12.35v.

I'm also 99% positive that there is an issue with the neutral safety switch. Probably a sticking relay. I'm 1/2 way to getting that resolved also.

If I can't get this resolved in the next few weeks, I might bring it to a professional (and pay through the nose :banghead: )

IIRC, the coil is always hot and grounded through the ECU.

It might be a wash in cost to pay to bring it to me, versus somebody more local, but I know that AFI and I have been having very good luck lately fixing such problems that seem to be daunting when first presented.

He also has some good water-proofing ideas that might prevent a recurrence.

Otherwise, we'll keep at it here and eventually, we'll get it running!
 

Lake_Bueller

Well-known member
Aug 11, 2004
2,105
59
56
Beloit, WI
I spent 4 hours yesterday and I'm no closer to finding the problem.

Recap:
Fuel - yes and proper pressure
Power to coil
Key isn't releasing

There has to be something that isn't switching properly. Is there a better way to trace the wiring than the page by page set-up in the RAVE? I've never seen a worse layout for a wiring diagram in my life!
 

Lake_Bueller

Well-known member
Aug 11, 2004
2,105
59
56
Beloit, WI
Okay...I might be a complete idiot!!

I mentioned in the opening post that I pulled and cleaned the crank postion sensor. But did I bother to test the sensor...of course not! After talking to a local "super mechanic" (calling him that because he's working on cars for Jay Leno), he insisted that it's most likely the CKP. I told him that I had already pulled it and cleaned it. That's when he asked if I did an ohm test while it was out.

Needless to say, instead of ohming out at zero, the sensor is reading something like 1.28 on the meter.

I'm ordering the replacement part today.