2000 Discovery II (can't live with them, can't kill them)

[jhmover]

Since someone resurrected this: No I don't suggest you total your D2 and get a D1, I might be persuaded to buy another D2 if the right deal presented itself. I will say I have 235k on the D1 now with little problems though. Mine must not have been made on a Monday morning or Friday afternoon though.

 

[Chris-St Louis]

As we read many times,
Spark plugs+ bosch + Land Rover= misfiring + doesn't work
Spare plugs + Champion + Land Rover = Great!

This gave me a honest warm fuzzy feeling all over!:bigok:

 

[powerslide23]

Reading all these posts is like groundhog day for me. :smilelol:

I have a 2" binder of all the warranty work done by the stealer and pretty much I have a brand new rig by the time my warranty crapped out at 50K.

I just wish my headliner is not sagging. Nothing worst than a sagging headliner. Anyone had these issues?

 

[Discotec]

I think 3-M spray adhesive would solve your problem, I used it for years to attach boat headliners.......just identify where you need to "tighten up" the liner, make a small hole and spray it in..sort of like WD 40.....

Also those "plastic buttons" come loose...........ditch them for after market GMC or Chev ones........

Later........

 

[motozine]

I need help on head gasket job for my 02 D2.
Removing fuel rail, how to disconnect fuel pipe?
I see it runs under the distributor (ignition coil?) which located all the way at the back so hard to see it how it continues.
Do I need to remove distributor to have fuel line disconnected?
Appreciate for information.
Thanks.

 

[Le shed]

When I did mine last Christmas I went took out the coil packs. They mount to a bracket that has four screws holding it. Two go down into the block and two go into the inlet mainifold, if I remember rightly. However there is a plastic clip under the bottom of that bracket that does a poor job of clamping around the fuel pipe. Typically mine broke as I didn't know it was there but if you get all the screws out you should be able to reach underneath and unclip it. Once the coil pack is out the way it is easy to break the fuel pipe coupling. Make sure the engine is cold and the fuel rail is depressurised. An old rag under the pipe doesn't hurt. Once the coupling is gone then cap the end to keep the crud out.
Good luck
Bill B

 

[motozine]

Is there any precaution when disconnecting fuel pipe coupling? How does it coupled together?
Thans so much for info LeShed.

 

[gabriel]

don't smoke!

seriously though push in the release and pull lightly.

 

[EJB90]

Recent work done (86,000 miles on 1999 DII):

- MAF
- Front Brake Pads + Rotors
- Brake Bleed
- Throttle Body Gasket
- Hood Release Lever and Cable replacement
-Front right orange marker light (and now of course the left is out since I went to the autoparts store and only bought 1 bulb)

 

[motozine]

Hello,
Continue with working on the HeadGasket job and just removed fuel rail/injectors, was pretty simple. thanks to all.
About injector 'o' rings. Does it have to be replaced? when I search web it's about $10/each (top/bottom) then $80 for all, very expensive. Does anyone know cheaper place to buy? or wonder I can just clean it well then don't replace.

 

[motozine]

Another question,
anyone knows what socket to use to take out 8 bolts on exhuast manifolds.
looks like 12pt metrics but someone confirm on this.
thanks.

 

[gabriel]

i just got my injectors tested and cleaned @ witchhunters for a little over $150. new screens, orings, and cleaning w/ 2 day turn around.

 

[motozine]

Another one,
Do i need to get to timing chain to set TDC first before I remove cylinder head? or just carful removal of rocker shaft and all components will be ok?
Thanks.

 

[HunterAK]

Another question,
anyone knows what socket to use to take out 8 bolts on exhuast manifolds.
looks like 12pt metrics but someone confirm on this.
thanks.

Whoops. Nevermind....

 

[Le shed]

The O rings for the injectors came with the kit I got from Rover Connection but it never came with the upper inlet manifold gasket, had to re-use that one, or the gaskets for the heater and coolant pipes that plumb into the inlet manifold. It appears the AB one is better and has everything. As the injectors sit in all that heat I would replace the O-rings as a matter of course. As far as the timing chain goes if you are just doing heads then there is no need to do anything with the position of the timing gear. As far as removing the rocker assemblies make sure you mark left and right and back and front. I used small cable ties around the shaft, one for right and two for left, both at the front end. That way you can give them a soak to get all the crap out. Use a cardboard box to put the rods in and mark so they go back in the right position. Take lots of photos so that everything goes back the same. I put small luggage labels on the pipes and connectors but they do get wet and so can smudge. Every bit that came off went into a ziploc bag and I wrote each step down to make re-assembly easier. It helps to make hand diagrams too. Don't bother re-using those crappy LR hose clamps change them for proper screw hose clamps. Make sure to get all the crud out of the bolt holes and run a blind tap down them too. Cotton buds with brake cleaner on works in the holes. I put the exhaust manifolds on and then put the exhaust pipe on and it was no problem. If you don't have a dial gauge for the bolt heads then what I did was torque per manual to the correct setting, I believe 15lbs then using a white paint pen draw a line from the middle of the bolt head to the edge. I did it pointing to the outside edge of the block and then do the two 90 degree torques. You will need a long breaker bar for this and it is scary the first time as you think the threads will strip. You will have to push a bit of the bulkhead in by the drivers side lower head bolt to get a square approach to it.
As long as you go as you have been then it will be o.k.
It pays to take your time.
Godd luck
Bill B

 

[Le shed]

Atlantic British Part # ERR7309G $4.95ea Call and ask for Eric Riston and he will sort you out.
Bill B

 

[motozine]

Thanks Le shed for good followup.
Checked the whole gasket pkg from AB and I see there all injector 'o' rings included.
Head bolts, I found metric 16mm fits very tight so wasn't much problem taking out except one located right lower.
By the way one fool things I did after I removed rocker shaft, didn't know I have to put the push rods in order. :ack: Is that really going to be a problem? all rod length seems same...duh.

Yes, bit nervious to put head bolts back in. Manual says 15lb then 90 then another 90.....but is there any specific final torque setting instead?

Thanks so much for help.

 

[motozine]

One more question,
Can't find out what this flat thick rubber rings for, 8 big, 8 small.
Bigger one size like golf ball, smaller one size is like dime.
It's included in head gasket kit I got from AB.
I called them up but they don't know what it is, also non of individual item description when I got the kit so asking help again.

http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/STC4082BK.cfm

when you look into parts layout, it's about left/lower section.
Please help. Thanks

 

[motozine]

those with red square.... hope someone recognize.

 

[Le shed]

Glad you are getting on o.k. As far as the mystery O rings go I ended up with a few left over too. The only set of eight I used were the injector ones. It may be a kit to cover more than one engine model. Someone may know. It would help to have a parts list with the kit but the genuine rover one I used didn't either and it didn't have the two O rings for the radiator and heater hose elbows which was annoying. It didn't have the upper plenum gasket either but I resused the original one. As far as torquing the head bolts follow the instructions exactly. There is no final torque setting as they are stretch bolts and good for one shot. Do make sure you lightly lube the head and the threads first. My breaker bar was a 24" one and it still was tight. Make sure you get the socket on straight. Make sure you use a six point socket to prevent stripping/slipping. Heads and block have to be clean. Use a lint free cloth and brake cleaner, I used chlorine free type, or acetone. Bolt holes should be clean and dry, check with a bright light.
Not much you can do about the rods except check the rocker ends for wear and also the cam followers for wear. If there are significant dishes
then you have to make a decision to change them all, and hope the cam lobes aren't worn or just put them back and hope it will be o.k.
Will be out of town for two weeks so good luck and take your time.
Cheers
Bill B