2000 Discovery II (can't live with them, can't kill them)

Ed Cheung

Well-known member
Aug 23, 2006
1,584
2
Hong Kong
VERY ACCURATE on the coolant leaking situation, as I am down to the head gasket part, all the sympton are just like mine, start up will loose a little coolant few weeks, then start to loose more.
Then heard the water running thing when start the car, and this can be explain, as the cooling system start from the radiator, to the water pump, then up the block to the cylinder head and pass through the valley gasket UP to the intake and out and back to the radiator. As water leaks out of the head gasket or the valley gasket, the there is no more water in the intake's, as the water is being leak out and can only be fill up to the valley gasket. So each time when we start the car, the water pump will start pumping the water up into the emptied space, we hear the water rushing like a river.

And up to a point, the air in the intake where the water suppose to be will become a huge air lock and no water can cycle through the system. And with the intake being dry, that ruin the themostat as well.

To be honest, this is a old design engine, the cooling system had to passs through so many gastket. Plus because of emission control, those engine are runing at a higher temperature then it is design for, as higher temperature fuel burns better, and todays ECU makes the engine run with the lease amount of fuel, that is not good for cooling neither. With the above 2 factors, those engine are really running on its edge, and must pay real good attention to it.
Plus, so badly design of putting parts under the hood I think the coolant resever tank is at a bad position, it should be mount at a higher position, at least higher that the intake, so the extra coolant can be flow down to fill the air pocket in the engine, intake, radiator.

As LR just assemble the parts into the engine bay, most of those things are in a strange place,(1) you want to take out the themostat, that is a pain in the ass job when comparing the same task with other cars.
(2) they should design the bracket for steering pump, A/C pump, Alternator, to be mount on the block rather than the engine head.
When you want to take out the steering pump hold by 3 bolts, 2 can be taken out easily, but one is block by the distubutor, so more things need to be taken out.
And yes, I still love my disco, it is a great truck.
 

Steph

Well-known member
Dec 30, 2006
737
1
I'm at 52000 miles on a 2000 D2, and have had a intake gasket job done by the dealer that they said was causing the leak I was having(oil and coolant). The truck still leaks a bit, and I'm about to bring it back to the dealer for them to fix it right.( I figure that they quoted me the wrong job to fix that leak, and now it's their problem to find and fix it at their charge). And now, by reading this, I'm becoming paranoid with the head gasket going or gone bad.

Is this avoidable???

I figured I'd take the Disco in for repairs the minute I noticed a leak, exactly to avoid problems getting worse.

What are the other symptoms of a head gaskets gone wrong??? I have nothing like the noises you describe. Could I tell by looking at the dipstick ??? (oil color, more fluid showing on the dipstick)


With the recent susp. and tires, there's no way I have a couple thousands to spend at this point. I need at least a year break. I've been fixing it since I bought it 3 months ago, and am at my 4th thousand, counting the OME and tires.

Thanks
 
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Ed Cheung

Well-known member
Aug 23, 2006
1,584
2
Hong Kong
The valley gasket sandwich between the intake and the block, held by 10 bolts, plus 2 at each end of the gasket, when I was taking if off, the bolts were so loose properly a 10 years old kid can take it off. My guess is with those bolts being loose coolant can leak out easily, leads to overheating and without addressing to the problem result in head gasket at the minium damage, slip cylinder can be the result of overheating as well.
There is no noise, just keep an eye on the coolant level and temp gauge, and properly from now on I will re-touque the 10 bolts holding the intake to the block once in a while, just to make sure the valley gasket are completely sealed off.

They are great turcks, but it needs lots off attention, it can be taken into many rough situation, but it still need good maintenance to work properly.

Many may not agree, by in the future, I will be switching to electric fan, have a decent fan controller, so I can turn off/on the fan manually or set it by water/oil temperature, properly have the fan on at 86C so it will never reach over 95C, so it will always stay on the cool side, it may burn a bit more fuel.
 
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discokelly

Guest
rmuller said:
That's a very accurate post of things that go wrong with the D2...

Front U-Joint ... Don't need to spend $400 on a new driveshaft, just rebuild it, under $100 bucks... do a search.

Throttle body gasket -- Yup definitely goes

Air Conditioner Drain Plugs -- Clog up multiple times a year

Head Gaskets -- Cost about 2500 at dealer w/ parts & labor... thank god for warranty

Let see... you forgot the cup holders... but thats shared between D1/D2 ... don't try to use the in-dash cup holders, they will break.

Watts linkage -- bearing/bushing in this wears out after like 120k miles

Oh yeah... and another one you forgot

* You either decided you needed better gas mileage and added an overoiled K&N air filter, or you splashed a little bit in that puddle offroad. Truck stalls out and wont keep idle. Read codes, find out its Mass Air Flow Sensor... either try cleaning it with electrical contact cleaner [sometime helps] or give Will Tillery a call to get a new one.

Oh, and one more

* Time for a tuneup... after figuring out that you either need the hands of a 3 year old, or have to take the upper intake cover off to plug the wires into the coil pack, you get back on the road.. all of a sudden misfires are thrown. You post onto your friendly Discoweb board saying "I don't know what's wrong, I used new wires and Bosch Platinum Plus 4's that the Autozone geek recommended" ... next thing you know, there are 10 posts of people saying "Wait until Chris-STL sees this!". Lesson learned, use the Champions next time.


My mechanic just told met that I need a serpentine belt & new sparkplugs... are you suggesting a brand other than bosch or am I misunderstanding? Any help would be great! I've been buying my parts through roverparts.com... anywhere else less expensive/better recommended?
 

Ed Cheung

Well-known member
Aug 23, 2006
1,584
2
Hong Kong
discokelly said:
My mechanic just told met that I need a serpentine belt & new sparkplugs... are you suggesting a brand other than bosch or am I misunderstanding? Any help would be great! I've been buying my parts through roverparts.com... anywhere else less expensive/better recommended?

As we read many times,
Spark plugs+ bosch + Land Rover= misfiring + doesn't work
Spare plugs + Champion + Land Rover = Great!
 

Tmax

Well-known member
Mar 17, 2006
46
0
Alliston,ON
Can I add the cruise ctrl. vacuum hoses and the rotary coupler,...[?]I have my 01 DII since last March only but except a few items on the list I had the plesure to "meet" the rest of the crowd.Still as I see it now, for very long time I would not like to have any vehicle other than LR.Make things worst I am falling in love with the 1970-sSeries II-s.
 
S

Schattenjager

Guest
Gosh- hate to say this as I am sure the karma will catch up to me tomorrow on the way to work, but I have 70K on my '00 DII and have had zero major problems. None. Ziltch. While I check the oil often to make sure there is some in it, there is only the smallest leak. Perhaps its the fact I have used super unleaded, a properly oiled K&N and Mobil 1 oil since day 1. Or maybe it was a LR exec's car before they shipped it... Anyway, if / when it takes a $ crap on me, in goes a Chevy motor!
 

AMCM Disco

Well-known member
Jun 20, 2006
475
0
Cali
Can I add the cruise ctrl. vacuum hoses and the rotary coupler,...[?]

CC vacuum line has two different sized ends so just getting cheap with a section of hose ends up being a bit more of a jury rig than expected!:banghead:

BUT: For the love of a good Land Rover - she gives me lovin' back for taking good care of her. Definatly concur with the list... I thought the MH-53E we have in the Navy was maintenance intensive with 75+ man hours per flight hour, but noooo... my black beauty takes the cake!

:patriot:
 
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Creemore

Guest
Four years on my '00, now at 109,000 km. Nothing major, really, for the use it gets: twice with those throttle plenum heater thingies, three pinion seals, a couple of rad hoses, brakes and tires. I stick religiously to the maintenance schedule, have a dealer do the work, double the oil change intervals and run premium fuel. It's been pretty cheap to run, really.

You know what the biggest cost of operating this thing has been? Depreciation. Per mile, maintenance has been reasonable. Depreciation has been evil. I couldn't afford to sell it even if I wanted to. :banghead:
 

jaemrich

Member
Apr 11, 2007
16
0
Charleston, SC
Amen. i would like to add this - Spark plug wires. replace them when they do the head gasket. it will save some labor down the road.
Oh, i almost forgot. the valve job $900, done when the head gasket was replaced. apparently the specifications are very tight and it is difficult to do.
thank god for the extended warranty.
 
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Cog Hill

Guest
Wanted the LR DII experience so I searched for a used Bosch engined DII SE (2002 my). After 22k miles (62k-84K) I have replaced the brakes, window regulator, and door lock acutator. Now I have a twin drip on the garage floor. I have heard the river sound in the dash and now will look at the items mentioned previously. Can you pressure test these trucks for the coolant issues? My 3 E30 BMW's needed timing belts and water pumps as preventative maintenance around 60k, 120k, and 180k. So, I'm reading post trying to educate myself on this gas guzziling, turtle like accelaration beast of a truck. I'm learning to love the thing but keep my Roundel membership current. With a baby on the way I need to know which trust fund to create??? I really don't want a SAV.
 
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Panta Kasoma

Guest
Just joined and read about the "three amigos". i own a 1999 Disco TD5 .My mechanic suggested a new sensor and hub. Before we could deal with that the fuel gauge went dead. It is at zero and the light is on constantly as well, however much fuel there is. Could these all be connected? Any suggestions or advice? Panta
 

ticketdoctor

Member
May 20, 2007
16
0
Ithaca, NY
2000 DII - 105,000 miles on mine to date

50,000 miles & 75,000 miles - Don't forget about the rear tailgate latch. I have replaced it twice and now I only spray penitrating oil on it. Works great now.

70,000 miles - Replace Wiring Harness. - Had to fight with Ford directly to cover this under their extended warranty.

The water sloshing around the AC system scared the crap out of me the first time the hot water hit my leg. The next time it happened I kind of enjoyed it, like a hot shower in your car!

I am finding out about the Spark Plug Wire situation now. I am determined to Do It Myself. I will overcome with a couple of scrapes and the loss of a finger or two!

Great Thread, how true is this. My wife thinks I am nuts to keep the Disco, but I really enjoy driving it.
 

robertofollia

Well-known member
Aug 3, 2005
555
2
My home is where my Disco is
12/1998 Disco 2 V8 manual. One of the very first.
So far.
-Routine maintenance, with oil and filter change every 4,500 miles
-New Rad at 39K miles
-New MAF, plugs and wires at 45K miles
-New coolant hoses (the thermostat one), plenum chamber breather cap and rear pinion oil seal at 50K miles

The previous owner had already done the throttle body thingy.

Goes like a charm... if it weren't for that damn whistling/squeaking sound it does 1.2 miles after a cold start, lasts for about 0,5 miles and disappears till next start from cold. Will take belt apart today to check bearings.
 
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Bayou Rover

Guest
Thanks for the great post! 03 Disco only has 53K and have already had some of the issue you post (including head gaskets).

Here is what I don't understand. How could LR make a model with so many issues. It is not uncommon for any model of vehicle to have problems, but with the disco line it is absurd. Somewhere along the way why didn't Land Rover simply engineer out the problems? I have talked at length with a LR dealer about this and there seems to be a disconect between Land Rover/Land Rover North America and us (the loyal following).

The first thing LR/LRNA will say is sales are higher than ever in the US. They never stop and ask themselves what could sales be if we (they) had a decent product. Maybe the Range Rover is but that is out of the price range for most of the loyal subjects. LR3? Be honest it is a "grocery getter" and I see just as many of them in the service department as Discos. Defender? won't sell them in NA.

I think as a group Land Rover's loyal subjects should mass email Land Rover North American and convey our love and support for the brand but compelte and utter disdane with product quality. Make them realize the size of the market that is out here and it will get there attention.

I love my Disco but unless product quality improves (or I hit the Lotto) this will be my first and last Land Rover. I love it and am willing to over come some of it's quirks, but to be totaly honest; it is a piece of shit.

:fedup:
 

Steph

Well-known member
Dec 30, 2006
737
1
I love my Disco but unless product quality improves (or I hit the Lotto) this will be my first and last Land Rover. I love it and am willing to over come some of it's quirks, but to be totaly honest; it is a piece of shit.

:fedup:[/quote]

It hurts to hear this......But it's so true!!!!!!!!!! They have to thank god for hitting it dead on with its looks....Cause if it wasn't for that, that model would have died a long time ago. Just like the LADA Niva piece of crap.
 
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Bayou Rover

Guest
robertofollia, my 03 also makes the "whistling" sound after a cold start up and lasts for a short time. Please let me know if you find out what it is. Thanks
 

robertofollia

Well-known member
Aug 3, 2005
555
2
My home is where my Disco is
Bayou,
your whistling noise might be caused by the SAI pump (something wihich occurs after a cold start, which injects air in the exhaust manifolds to facilitate the cats' warm-up).

My whislte was really odd. It began after a 1.2 mile driving after a cold startup. And 0.3 miles later it vanished. Every time, every cold startup. You really had to pull over and open the hood at the time it appeared. I took the belt off checked for smoothness in all bearings (there was), no rough feelings, no grinding noise. Even sprayed the drive belt with easing oil to see if it was caused by a dry/hardened rubber drive belt, but to no avai. I even placed ratchet extension on the water pump casing with the engine running (very dangerous I know) to act as an stethoscope in order to see if the pump's bearings were on their way out, but to no avail.
Alt bearings seem ok. Spins freely and the only noise are the brushes making contact with the commutator.

It seems my Rover loves me... getting crazy!