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upside down said:
Sounds like a nice setup. I was being sarcastic about the dealer. I wouldnt let them change my oil. The dealer hasnt touched my truck since the warranty ran out and i intend to keep it that way,.
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upside down
Guest
i don't even have a dealer down here.LostInBoston said:
you guys want to hear the sad fact.....i have never actually wheeled my disco....seriously.
it is my family car. i was too afraid to break my only reliable xportation. buuuut....since i am an inordinate tinkerer, i will be doing the toy third swap, if i can find the fj80 thirds with factory elockers. i will do a good write up for you guys when i get around to it.
the big question is whether i do this or continue the futile resto of my 54 series I 80inch
Yes 1541H Good tough stuff! Thanks Daniel..
We will be doing Toy conversions pretty soon... I am currently fitting a set of Long CV's into some Rover balls on the bench so that we can offer a kit..
I would really like to build a Rover patten of the same materials but i need to check the toys out first to be sure they are suitable for a full time four wheel drive. There's about 8 inches of snow on the ground right now so i won't be doing it this wekend!
As far as the Toy diff is concerned we are in the middle of making a "template" so that guys can DIY in the driveway.. With more advanced tools and skills of course..
30 Splines all the way out? Sounds good to me! We will also offer drive flanges to fit the toy CV.. It's a ways out there (months) but it's on its way.
I can do axles to fit either Toy or Rover thirds/CV's..
Yes I do post on PBB
It is interesting but i too have not seen too many stock axles break with a Locker (even a TT) involved. What I have seen is stock third members explode, due to the weak cross pin and 2 spider setup, when this happens folks put in a locker and then ...well we know what happens next..
Disco Rock buggies? It's a Better start than a 90 which is too short... Either way these two cousins would make a great low buck rock buggy.. I would disagree with and change only one thing... The engine.. I thing I would add a bit more wieght up front with an Iron engine... But that's just me..
Keith
We will be doing Toy conversions pretty soon... I am currently fitting a set of Long CV's into some Rover balls on the bench so that we can offer a kit..
I would really like to build a Rover patten of the same materials but i need to check the toys out first to be sure they are suitable for a full time four wheel drive. There's about 8 inches of snow on the ground right now so i won't be doing it this wekend!
As far as the Toy diff is concerned we are in the middle of making a "template" so that guys can DIY in the driveway.. With more advanced tools and skills of course..
30 Splines all the way out? Sounds good to me! We will also offer drive flanges to fit the toy CV.. It's a ways out there (months) but it's on its way.
I can do axles to fit either Toy or Rover thirds/CV's..
Yes I do post on PBB
It is interesting but i too have not seen too many stock axles break with a Locker (even a TT) involved. What I have seen is stock third members explode, due to the weak cross pin and 2 spider setup, when this happens folks put in a locker and then ...well we know what happens next..
Disco Rock buggies? It's a Better start than a 90 which is too short... Either way these two cousins would make a great low buck rock buggy.. I would disagree with and change only one thing... The engine.. I thing I would add a bit more wieght up front with an Iron engine... But that's just me..
Keith
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Kyle
Guest
There are a few here Keith that have expressed interest in the "TOY" conversion/butchery I find it strange that they havnt chimed in... Also , if Moser is making your axles and they are indeed a US based company. Why wouldnt I just get on the phone and order them direct ? The last set of 31 spline Ford shafts I got from them were about $350 as I recall ... Speaking of 9"... Why play with "TOYS" ?
Why play with "TOYS" ?
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D Chapman
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Will a 9" even fit in a Rover housing? Seems to be too big.
Moser will make you an axle set, but you still need to machine a spacer. And, if you want to run alloys, the flange has to be machined. Not worth saving 30 bucks to me.
The "Toy" gear is still on my mind. If I do go with it, I think I may retain the stock rover diff, and just use the longfield cv's and an inner axle of sorts. The only disadvantage to this is the cheap Toyota gear sets. I think in either case, the ring and pinion is going to be the weak link. So, if the set-up does not hold up, a broken CV is the easier fix. Yet, if it does hold up, that's money and time well spent, I feel. The only thing that bothers me is machining the spindel super thin. Either way you look at it, the AEU2522 deal is not the ideal configuration, but it's better than stock.
Moser will make you an axle set, but you still need to machine a spacer. And, if you want to run alloys, the flange has to be machined. Not worth saving 30 bucks to me.
The "Toy" gear is still on my mind. If I do go with it, I think I may retain the stock rover diff, and just use the longfield cv's and an inner axle of sorts. The only disadvantage to this is the cheap Toyota gear sets. I think in either case, the ring and pinion is going to be the weak link. So, if the set-up does not hold up, a broken CV is the easier fix. Yet, if it does hold up, that's money and time well spent, I feel. The only thing that bothers me is machining the spindel super thin. Either way you look at it, the AEU2522 deal is not the ideal configuration, but it's better than stock.
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Kyle
Guest
Well that is one of my bigger problems with the tinker toy conversion. That shit dont fint in the rover housing either . You have to make it fit. Why not just do it the right way and include a better diff and housing while you are at it ?
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D Chapman
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To make a toyota diff fit, what do you have to do? Notch it for the ring gear and move a few studs around? It's more work to trim your stock front bumper. To fit a 9", it seems you need a whole new center section. Buy the time you fit that 9", the Rover would be better suited as a potato plow.
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Kyle
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D have you set up a jig on the rover housing to see if any of this is being done right to start with ? No , its not that simple. If you were to swap the toy diff in the right way you would remove the guts from the housing and have an empty toy third. You would then put the two disks that a housing jig requires into the toy third , then you would slide your bar through and bolt the ends on so that its all straight. THEN you would mark your holes and move them as needed , I am wanting to see pics of this done to actually see how well that third fits... That is indeed the only proper way to get it done... If you are doing a 9 you simply do it all out of the truck and then swap it in. No fucking around half assed shit ...
oops , almost forgot , you would also need another fixture for drilling the holes and new studs that have shoulders that fit the diameter of the holes in the toy diff so that when the third drops in it is just as tight and lined up as the factory would have done it..
Is the 9 more of a plow then the Salisbury that RT is trying to sell ?
oops , almost forgot , you would also need another fixture for drilling the holes and new studs that have shoulders that fit the diameter of the holes in the toy diff so that when the third drops in it is just as tight and lined up as the factory would have done it..
Is the 9 more of a plow then the Salisbury that RT is trying to sell ?
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upside down
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upside down
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D Chapman
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I don't know there Kyle. I'm just glad there are people out there who are working on a stronger set-up, and playing with this stuff. As the price of the Rovers continues to fall, I think we will see some pretty hacked up trail rigs out and about. It, like anything, people will try 100 things to get that ideal running gear. You can't sit there and tell me that the 2522 deal is a great set-up. Maybe a drop in toy diff is not the answer, and maybe Longfields arn't either. But, in the end the R&D is going to end with a strong mofo. I feel, the biggest problem is the lack of a "great" CV. If someone could build a strong CV, with a small cage for a tight turning radius, and sell them at a reasonable price I think even you would like a set. Right now the only thing avaliable, minus a whole new front end, is the new longfields.
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Kyle
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There are others that use hy-tuf as well... Off the top of my head I cant think of who it was. Had to be strange or Moser , one of the two..........
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D Chapman
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Bruno said:
I theory yes...But, you have to consider the overall diameter too. I'm not that smart to figure all the variables. Bottom line, they are not breaking.
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Kyle
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Well have no fear , there is no "KIT" for doing that swap. If its being done any way other then what I just described its half assed. Sure it will work but alot of half assed shit "Works"....
As for the CV , yeah , you are right. I would buy a set of CVs that werent stepchildren. As it stands now though , that is all that is available so I have not even the slightest interest...
As for the CV , yeah , you are right. I would buy a set of CVs that werent stepchildren. As it stands now though , that is all that is available so I have not even the slightest interest...
upside down said:iron engines are gay!
only kidding.....yes a 350 would do well in a disco
Exactly! an iron engine is exactly what an ass heavy disco needs. I bet it dramatically improves its climbing ability.
either that or lose the top, glass, and bob the rear.
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Kyle
Guest
Well saying "They arent breaking" is a little weak. The axles I make for the Disco arent breaking either..... Now are they ?
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