Tom Woods Driveshaft failure

CrouchingRover

Active member
Mar 9, 2007
29
0
Spring, Texas
Actually the 4" lift is smooth with the stock front shaft with the stock front radius arms on but it is fairly squirly when stopping and highway driving plus the understeering. It rides great with the new arms but got to get this drive shaft issue corrected obviously. I got the DDC shaft when I got the 6 degree arms installed and the front stock shaft sounded like it was going to come off under my feet. The DDC shaft is extremely heavy and still had fairly bad vibration which is why I went back to the 3 degree correction on the arms and in the meantime sent the DCC back and got the Single Double Cardon. I talked to Tom Woods today and I am sending the shaft back to have them check it out and in the mean time I am going to put the stock front shaft back on since I haven't tried that since the installation of the 6 degree arms. If it is the angles then the stock shaft won't help unless it is simply too short for the 25 1/2" distance I now have with the new set up.
 

R_Lefebvre

Well-known member
Dec 10, 2007
942
0
I was just allowing for the different driveshaft options.

Seems that it's a pretty simple case here. He says he had no vibes after the lift, with stock arms and stock shaft. The question is, why didn't the DDC work?
 

p m

Administrator
Staff member
Apr 19, 2004
15,643
867
58
La Jolla, CA
www.3rj.org
On a D1 it is almost a no-brainer - get the adjustable A-arm ball joint. RTE is a good starting point.
But I don't think I ever heard a rear driveline vibration from a D1 owner. It seems to be doing okay with 3" of lift and with regular U joints.
 

jhmover

Well-known member
Apr 23, 2004
5,571
3
California
Here is the deal with my D1.

1. ARB lift about 2" is all I have.
2. I was going through rear u-joints.
3. Made the "brilliant" (if I'm comprehending things right) to put a TW Double Cardon driveshaft on, thinking that would solve the problem.
4. I was advised to make sure the driveshaft was pointing at the transfer case, I didn't really get this until I put the TW shaft in. It doesn't point up, it comes straight out, then angles up (no I don't have the angles until I crawl under again).
5. Again based on what I'm told, I need to tilt the rear diff up so there is no angle on that end of the driveshaft.
6. I already have an ARB in, but this shouldn't affect anything about the vibration.
7. I get vibrations at various speeds. Usually around 25 MPH, then around 45-50 MPH, then again about 75 MPH, gets really bad above 80 MPH.
8. Again based on what I've read on here, this should not be due to TW's driveshaft, it should be due to having the driveshaft angle up at the rear when it should be straight.

OK am I going in the right direction here? Or am I off base and not getting things again?
 

jhmover

Well-known member
Apr 23, 2004
5,571
3
California
That's what I thought. Mine has an angle up at the back towards the transfer case, so based on that the diff needs tilting up.
 

CrouchingRover

Active member
Mar 9, 2007
29
0
Spring, Texas
No Adjustable Pan Hard Bar yet, waiting on the third try to get the right one. First one was for a D1, second for something else, and now waiting on the third and hopefully final. If you look at the shaft from the front there is a noticeable angle to it due to the front axle shift towards the driver side. So yes, another angle that could cause problems.
 

CrouchingRover

Active member
Mar 9, 2007
29
0
Spring, Texas
I know, I know, but I am trying to stay calm. If I decided to get pissed at every Rover supplier I have used that I think is run poorly there wouldn't be any suppliers left other than Expedition Exchange which is some of the best service I have ever had on any purchase.
 

CrouchingRover

Active member
Mar 9, 2007
29
0
Spring, Texas
No blame on Tom Woods, was just strickly talking Rover aftermarket parts suppliers. Tom Woods has been good and just sending my DS back to have them check it to make sure thats not the problem.