Are you going to schedule a visit to GBR to compare the competition?Roving Beetle said:Thanks so much Tom for the opportunity and for the top notch communication and treatment thus far - "coddling" if you will.
I would like to take this post to ask if anyone, or everyone here has anything thing they would like me to document - pics, process details etc etc. Let me know and I will do my best to provide any info and comments that I can.
Thanks again Tom and we will see you very soon, look forward to meeting you and your wife as well as the crew at your shop.
Doug
Tom Woods Driveshaft failure
- Thread starter RoverDude
- Start date
I being to wonder if Tom Woods really believes that, in the stock truck, the front output shaft of the t-case is parallel to the front axle pinion...
It could explain a lot.
It could explain a lot.
You are correct, which was why I didn't have concern when going with the correction radius arms, figured I was putting everything back to original angle but still have the 4" of lift difference. When I had the 6 degree arms I installed the multiple double cardon shaft and the vibration was bad, so bad I only got down my block and back. thought the dash was going to come loose. I starting to wonder if anyone has just gone with a U-joint shaft with no double cardon joint.
I had on my 90,TW DC shafts with 2" lift and QT 6 degree radius and rear arms/links lowered turret and rear shock
0 Vibration
0 Vibration
CrouchingRover - does your front diff pinion "look" more or less directly at the t-case flange? In other words does the front diff u-joint have little if any angle introduced on it?
If I read it right you have a pretty severe angle there (was even more before with the 6 deg arms) and that is why you originally went with a dual DC jointed shaft?
Sounds like you have some angle issues - I will discuss these types of issues with Tom Wood in great detail when I am there.
Doug
If I read it right you have a pretty severe angle there (was even more before with the 6 deg arms) and that is why you originally went with a dual DC jointed shaft?
Sounds like you have some angle issues - I will discuss these types of issues with Tom Wood in great detail when I am there.
Doug
It's not that it is a hard concept but the only way to correct the castor is with radius arms which drops the front pinion angle away from pointing at the T/C or I guess you could cut the diff from the axle housing and rotate for correction. The truck drives much better with the corrected arms other than this drive line issue but I haven't heard or seen anyone have to go that route.
CrouchingRover said:
Could use longer arms with wedges for springs too. This is much better IMHO.
Like i said, I have seen the diff angles be a little different from truck to truck and it sounds like yours may the extreme end of the scale.... in the wrong direction.
You could also have a bad shaft.... I am pretty sure Tom will take of it if that's the case. If not I'll poke him with a stick, and kick his dog when I'm there next week. (well - I'd never kick a dog......)
You may well need to have the diff rotated on the tubes a little. That would also reduce the angle inflicted on the DC joint as well (which sounds a bit high too for a highway driven truck)
Doug
You could also have a bad shaft.... I am pretty sure Tom will take of it if that's the case. If not I'll poke him with a stick, and kick his dog when I'm there next week. (well - I'd never kick a dog......)
You may well need to have the diff rotated on the tubes a little. That would also reduce the angle inflicted on the DC joint as well (which sounds a bit high too for a highway driven truck)
Doug
Hmm - looks like the diff pinion is pretty much pointed right at the t-case flange... you may have a shaft issue, or the bearings are worn in the t-case or diff.
Is there any play at all in your diff/t-case input/output?
Doug
Is there any play at all in your diff/t-case input/output?
Doug
That is next thing I was going to check but its very cold down here for us, Even though I grew up in New Mexico
I originally put the post in this thread due to the discussion but then figured that as the Title is on this one it didn't really address my issue. I am going to stick to the thread I posted and leave this one. Figured I would start new thread to try to get more people looking at it and more help or ideas, or experience.
Sounds good - I will post there as well.
I will ask Tom Wood about these issues anyway as I am curious what he thinks of the drive angle issues on these trucks.
Doug
I will ask Tom Wood about these issues anyway as I am curious what he thinks of the drive angle issues on these trucks.
Doug
The 300Tdi D90 I recently built received TW shafts with 1310's to compensate for the 5" lift. The truck has damn near 10k hard miles and a few offroad trips without a single issue.
JohnK said:
Not planning on it - honestly have not even looked at what sort of time it would take to do that. How far away is GBR from Salt Lake City?
EDIT: OK, LOL I just noticed GBR is right in SLC... I will give them a call and see if I can chat with them.
We don't have a lot of time, but we do have some time on Saturday I guess.
Doug
Ash said:
Just as a side note TW can also do a smaller diameter then standard front shaft to allow clearence at the passenger side cat for the petrol defenders and still give you the larger CV and 1310 u-joints.
I don't think there's one easy answer to that. There's some conflicting things going on.
Let's assume the trailing arm is 30" long. Not sure on that but it's close to correct. If you lift the truck 4", I calculate the slope of the arm changed by 7.6?. However, since the pivot point of the trailing arms is close to the pivot point of the driveshaft (the DC joint by the TC), the front axle diff flange is still pointed pretty close to the TC flange. The trailing arm pivot points aren't quite in line with the DC joint, so it's not perfect, but close.
It seems the correct thing to do for the driveshaft is just leave it alone? There might be a small angle through the front U-joint, maybe 1??
But, you need to correct the castor angle, so you install castor corrected arms. This rotates the axle back down, and now your front pinion flange is definitely NOT pointed at the TC case. Now you have an angle through the the front joint. I'd think a DDC shaft would fix this, but Crouching Tiger said it was bad. I have to think that shaft was actually bad? One of the ones with the bad centering balls? I dunno, I'm no expert on this.
The thing with the DDC shaft, with that many joints, the center shaft has almost complete freedom to move around. The only thing holding it in alignment is the centering balls on both ends. If there's anything wrong with that at all, you're done.
It seems on the D2 at least, with the DC shaft from the factory and the front U-joint supposed to be straight through, that the castor corrected arms make the driveline situation worse.
Castor corrected arms does take the front pinion angle (relative the ground) back to the factory setting, but unfortunately that isn't what the truck actually needs. That pinion needs to keep pointing right at the front TC flange.
I have a 2" OME lift, and didn't have any vibration with both the stock and TW shaft, and I didn't do anything to the angles. With the TW shaft, the trucks runs as smooth as with no shaft.