Yup- the rock, or whatever the heck it was she hit, slammed the drag link and track bar so hard that the track bar rubs the diff cover and the drag link hit the diff when trying to turn right.
The problem with sleeving the stock tie rod is the adjuster becomes the weak link and will break. A HD tie rod with a left and right end may also bend but but is much stronger than the stock stuff. My tie rod and drag link are made from 1.5" by .25 wall DOM. I really only worry about breaking the ends or the knuckles themselves.
The only problem with moving the tierod in front of the axle useing the knuckle trick in the pick above is. The Ackerman angle( I believe is the term) is not correct. This will cause the tires to wear prematurly. If you are not familure with this. Look at your wheels when they are turned full lock. The inside tire should be turned alittle more than the outside tire. I'm not shure how this happens but I know it's in the geometry of the knuckles and castings.
Moving the tierood to the front allows the draglink to be stacked on top of it using Heim joints in stead if tierod ends. raising the drag link helps with bumpsteer on the higher lifts.
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