I noticed that nobody said anything about using WD40 to help loosed things up underneath.
Is that a no no?
Thanks,
Is that a no no?
Thanks,
OME 2" Installation
- Thread starter romigenv
- Start date
mike falconer said:
It was the last (yet probably most important) item in Jayson's listing of what he used. An alternative to WD40 is PB Blaster which supposedly works great.
G
gadams
Guest
Great thread. Thanks for the advice. I will be putting my new springs on this weekend. Hoping to hit my friend with the heavy equipment shop up for some help. I expect your recs will save some time.
Greg
Greg
C
CJSRover
Guest
romigenv said:
Thanks Jayson, the lift looks great. One question, are you still running the stock tires? I've changed to 265/75/16s, so I wouldn't have as much clearance in the wheel wells with the 2" lift as you do. Still, it might be enough.
Chris
Lifting Rovers
Yes...there are many different ways to install springs and shocks on DII, RRC and DI but I must agree with the comments that a good pair of compressors are the way to go. Saves time, frustration and is safe if done properly. Should only have to compress minimally if done correctly. Happy Rovering everyone.
Yes...there are many different ways to install springs and shocks on DII, RRC and DI but I must agree with the comments that a good pair of compressors are the way to go. Saves time, frustration and is safe if done properly. Should only have to compress minimally if done correctly. Happy Rovering everyone.
You could almost have a second spring done with the extra time it takes to fight a spring compressor. Those things are a pain. Just undo everything, then stuff the factory jack on top of the axle and pump it till the spring falls out. It just isn't that difficult.
If you are messing with underbody bolts,
PB and (making sure you don't use the two too close together) a torch are your best friends. I had no problems on my DII (used a strut compressor), but on a classic it was optimizers and bloody knuckles all the way. I love it though. The most important thing to bring with you is care. A cool head can get you through anything.
As kyle said, though, a quality compressor (read: not a strut compressor) can really make a big difference in install times. His time quote is quite possible with the commen sense tools.
Cheers,
Kennith
PB and (making sure you don't use the two too close together) a torch are your best friends. I had no problems on my DII (used a strut compressor), but on a classic it was optimizers and bloody knuckles all the way. I love it though. The most important thing to bring with you is care. A cool head can get you through anything.
As kyle said, though, a quality compressor (read: not a strut compressor) can really make a big difference in install times. His time quote is quite possible with the commen sense tools.
Cheers,
Kennith
CJSRover said:
I'm running 245/75/16s coopers. That's why it looks like I have a ton of clearance. They are taller than stock but not quite as wide (1/2 difference I believe). Once these wear out, I'll be looking at good replacements.
As for the lift. First couple of days (Sunday and Monday) were great, no ill effects. Last night and today on the way to the office I noticed a little, hmm, shall we say, vibrations or rumbling. Seemed to get worse the faster I went and when turning to the right. The fastest I went before the vibes started was about 60 mph. Not a problem then. Now, at about 25 mph the rumbling starts.
Seeing as how the 1.5-2 inche OME lift is not supposed to cause driveline vibrations, could this hopefully be something else? I thought maybe it was coming from the front, but maybe that is just where I feel it. What about a wheel that isn't tight or I got it off "kilter" because of the lug nuts or something simple and stupid like that?
I'm going to jack each wheel tonight and re-check to make sure I got all the lug nuts tight and didn't get the wheel off line. Then we shall see if that makes a difference. I need new front rotors too, which I have, but didn't install during the spring installation. Don't ask why I didn't do it while everything was off.
I'll post tomorrow and let you know the outcome. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. One more thing. When changing the PS front spring, I lowered the axel until it hit the cross member. It actually rested on this for a short time until I realized it. Would this have caused any damage? It didn't look like it was resting on anything other than the drive shaft itself (not the u-joint or otherwise).
J.
K
Kyle
Guest
"You could almost have a second spring done with the extra time it takes to fight a spring compressor. Those things are a pain. Just undo everything, then stuff the factory jack on top of the axle and pump it till the spring falls out. It just isn't that difficult."
Please come on over and we will test this theory.... Before you are done dismantleing the underside of the truck I will be done...
Please come on over and we will test this theory.... Before you are done dismantleing the underside of the truck I will be done...
Kyle, you do this all the time! Some of these guys have done spring once or twice! Level the playing feild you only get one hand!! 
Peter
Peter
Kyle and others,
Could it be possible to be getting driveline vibrations with only a 2" OME lift? I did get the heavy duty springs front and back and don't have heavy front bumber, winch or anything else to weigh it down. I checked the difference in the rear and it is only about 1.8 - 2 inch higher max. I'm thinking it is something else since it goes away if I turn to the left at speed.
Thoughts?
J.
Could it be possible to be getting driveline vibrations with only a 2" OME lift? I did get the heavy duty springs front and back and don't have heavy front bumber, winch or anything else to weigh it down. I checked the difference in the rear and it is only about 1.8 - 2 inch higher max. I'm thinking it is something else since it goes away if I turn to the left at speed.
Thoughts?
J.
D
dmcfarlane
Guest
Kyle or whomever...
Please explain re. what makes a "good" spring compressor. The only one I was able to find (and which I bought) was a Craftsman "Macpherson strut spring compressor" from Sears. The pair of them look pretty solid and so I am curious as to what I should be watching out for when I use them.
Please explain re. what makes a "good" spring compressor. The only one I was able to find (and which I bought) was a Craftsman "Macpherson strut spring compressor" from Sears. The pair of them look pretty solid and so I am curious as to what I should be watching out for when I use them.
Donald, the ones from sears work fine....the smaller strut compressors can be used as long as they fit around the thicker guage coil on the ome and rovertym springs...just beware to place them in a position not to overload one side to much while compressing...personally i like to just remove one wheel....use bottle jack to lower that side while using a floor jack with some lumbar to support frame or hi lift on sliders....then simple lower bottle jack until slack on brake line starts tightening up...Leave yourself a few more inches in drop and them simply mount compressors and drop another couple of inches and pop the spring out...should be fast. I am sure Kyle and others may have other ways of doing the same thing. Take your pick and make sure to be safe...those springs carry alot of energy when compressed significantly. Happy rovering.
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romigenv said:
Possible but unlikely, how's the Rotoflex look? do you have a way to lock the center diff?
As a point of interest, you're fortunate that you didn't remove your crossmember or you would have had a real fight getting it back on (short of Unibit'ing it!).
Careful with the bottle-jack-on-the-axle method, do not allow the axle to impart force on the driveshaft where it contacts the crossmember (I prefer to simply remove the front radius arm bolt). As Kyle stated - spring compressor - and it's only needed for the front passenger side spring.
Bruno.
I wasn't planning on compressing springs at all. But when I couldn't loosen some of the bolts (cross member, etc.) I had to find a way to compress the spring without going back out in holiday crowds to find on spring compressor. So, I improvised. Most of the time it took to do the project was spent figuring things out like compressing the springs.
I removed the front radius arm bolts which helped greatly.
As for the vibrations, I removed each wheel and retightened. No more vibrations even over 60 mph. I guess one was a little off canter. Make sure to get those wheels on straight. Not that many people would have that problem if that is indeed what happened. Good thing is no more vibrations. Ride height and ride are great. Ingress and egress, not as good. Especially for my pregnant wife. I kind of like it though. I think she pulled some ligaments trying to get in an out last night. OOPS!!
Cio,
I removed the front radius arm bolts which helped greatly.
As for the vibrations, I removed each wheel and retightened. No more vibrations even over 60 mph. I guess one was a little off canter. Make sure to get those wheels on straight. Not that many people would have that problem if that is indeed what happened. Good thing is no more vibrations. Ride height and ride are great. Ingress and egress, not as good. Especially for my pregnant wife. I kind of like it though. I think she pulled some ligaments trying to get in an out last night. OOPS!!
Cio,