OME 2" Installation

[romigenv]

I don't post much, but do read quite a bit. I just wanted to post a quick message about my experience this weekend with installing the OME 2" springs and shocks on a '01 DII. I decided to do this myself. I'm not a mechanic (biologist) and haven't done much like this on cars. Work on my MGB a little but that is about it. However, after talking to several people and reading posts on this forum, I thought it was something I could handle.

What a PITA! However, I finally completed the job and so far, everything is going well. I went with the heavy duty springs eventhough I won't be adding a heavy bumper and winch anytime soon. It really balanced the truck out front to back and I think it rides much better.

I didn't even have a friend to hand me tools and my wife wasn't about to help me (6 months pregnant). So it was pretty nerve racking at times. My garage isn't big enough (too much crap in it) and I didn't have the right tools. That sent me to Sears to buy some large metric wrenches half way through the first wheel.

I used the directions provided by EE and while they were handy, they are not as compreshensive as I thought they were. That's fine though, they still helped. This was a leaning process as well because I didn't even know what some of the parts were that they were calling out. The biggest problem was all of the frozen bolts and nuts. Most of which were hard to reach. I did have some metric tools, but not enough for the job. I still didn't have enough for the job in the end, but I wasn't about to go back out to Sears this weekend. Not with the crowds and all.

One of the biggest problems was getting the drivers side front spring in. Out was ok, but the new ones were harder to get back in because they were taller and stiffer. The directions said to remove the cross member under the front axel. I didn't see one, so I figured this is where the directions were off. Well, there is one, but not under the axel, rather under the front drive shaft (maybe I misread the directions). I tried to remove the 8 bolts holding the cross member to the frame, but they weren't going anywhere and I stripped the one bolt head (rounded it). Then I thought about disconnecting the DS at the u-joint. No go there either. So when the axel wouldn't lower itself enough to install the new spring, I had to try to compress it. Out came the ropes and turnbuckles (no, I didn't have a spring compressor either). Go ahead and laugh, but it worked! Amazing as it is. I kept using this method to install the remaining springs.

All in all it was a good experience. I used 6x6 and 4x4 wooden blocks instead of jack stands. Much more sturdy. I had a jack stand, but I didn't like the feel of it under such a heavy truck.

I may post some follow up directions for installation from a "non-mechanics, a-typical wrenchers" point of veiw so anyone else like me can tackle the installation. It's good to be able to do things yourself. I will also add a list of needed tools and sizes.

Reading and filtering this forum helped with the installation and the confidence. I appreciate all the feedback I got before I tackled the project and again, I'm glad I did it.

Adios amigos,

J.

 

[Kyle]

This is why I reccomend a good spring compressor. People are taking apart half of thier trucks to get this very simple job done...

 

[romigenv]

Yes. I agree with that recommendation. Get a GOOD spring compressor even if you only use it on this one project. It would have saved me a good bit of time.

 

[CJSRover]

Jayson,

I read your post with great interest. I am contemplating putting in a 2" or 3" OME lift shortly and I am no mechanic. Sounds like I do a similar amount of tinkering. I would appreciate any pointers you could provide from a non-mechanics viewpoint. I will definitely go ahead an by the spring compressors. Also, could you post a picture of your truck after the 2" lift? I'm trying to get a good idea of what it looks like vs. the 3", which I have several pictures of.

Congratulations and Thanks!

 

[cmlmtn]

Non mechanic here as well, but installing the OME HD setup on my D2 has given me the confidence to do some more involved mods (CDL solenoid next). I had the metric tools I needed and bought the compressor before hand. All in all it took about 3 or 4 hours, but I didn't put conventional rear springs on my rig. I used the sls spacers from RTE and added a braket to the sls sensor arm. I drove it with the airbags inflated to off road levels for a few days, but the ride in back was too stiff and I was concerned about the pressure so I added the spacers about a week later. The spacers are about the same cost as the springs (short term) but I really wanted to keep the sls functionality. I am ecstatic with the job and I'd be glad to help anyone in the area with theirs.
the first two pics are obvious. The third pic is a detail of the installed SLS spacer and the fourth is of a peice of scrap metal that I had laying around which served nicely as a SLS sensor braket.
My only regret is not taking "before" pics for the comparison.

 

[romigenv]

Chris,

No problem. I will try to post tomorrow. When contemplating a lift, I tried to do some research and felt that OME 2" was the best way for me. From what I hear, there is a possibility of "drive-line vibrations" within the drivetrain when the vehicle is in motion with a lift higher than 2 inches. Apparently to fix the problem, you have to change axels and u-joints and who knows what else. So I didn't have to worry about it, I decided on the 2" OME lift. It should be a straight application where you only need 4 springs and shocks.

Also, my vehicle is my daily driver and my wife and I go places in it also. So it can't look "lifted". That being said, so far, I'm happy, but it's only been a couple of days.

Unfortunately I won't have a before and after photo. Just after. I don't know why I didn't take pictures of the process.

Metric wrenches needed:

24 mm
23 mm
18 mm
13 mm
12 mm
8 mm

Hammer
rubber mallet
good jack stands (although I prefer big blocks of wood. Something I learned while working in maintenance department of a paper mill.)
good lights
bottle jack from Rover
Floor jack
sockets
impact wrench if you have one (I didn't and wish I did)
Torx bit for sway bar (I think it is size 40) Try to get a socket that fits a 3/8 or 1/2 drive.
WD 40 or similar

I removed the rear mud shields from the disc brakes and didn't re-install them. I also completely removed the front sway bar. Not decided on this yet. I might re-install if I have problems. Which I'm not supposed to with the heavy duty springs (779 fronts and 762 rears). I didn't remove the rear because I didn't need to to replace springs. I was running out of time and needed to make sure I was rolling again by Sunday. I will go back and make some adjustments as time permits. I don't go off-road much, not nearly as much as I'd like. I wanted the lift for better ride, better look and off-road improvement.

Pointers:

Be patient. Try to do as much homework before hand as possible. Get all the wrenches/sockets and tools you need lined up. Hammers and rubber mallet are for beating the wreches. Lead hammer is best so you don't mar the wrenches, I don't have one anymore so I had to use rubber mallet and when absolutely necessary, a ball-pein hammer.

Use the bottle jack from Rover for under the axels to control their movement. Floor jack and blocks of wood under frame for lifting (in place of high-lift jack, I don't have rock sliders) and support. I lowered vehicle onto blocks of wood. Couple of blocks of a 6x6 and a top 4x4 (it fits width of frame pretty well between other components).

I also used some blocks under the axels for security while beating on some of the components. I am very nervous about crawing under cars. I had my MGB slip of my floor jack and come up through the engine bay just before I was about to get under it. I was also trapped under a piece of machinery at a paper mill and had pins in my foot for months. So, saftey is important to me. Might be over-kill, but post-traumatic stress is to blame.

I have the big printed workshop manual which came in handy in figuring out the rear brake caliper removal. Need a 13 mm 12 point wrench/socket for this.

I will try to put comments onto the EE write-up that may help. That write-up got me through, but I may be able to add some insight in places for folks like myself.

If I got through this in less than 16 hours, anybody can do it. I could do it in 8 now that I know.

I'll try to post picture tomorrow.

J.

 

[spydrjon]

Yes. I agree with that recommendation. Get a GOOD spring compressor even if you only use it on this one project. It would have saved me a good bit of time.

I used the redneck spring compressor myself... a 2x4 through the spring and 2 hydralic jacks worked great!

 

[DiscoJen]

Tech article

I used Kyle's write up in the tech section to do mine. It was extremely helpful and I liked the purty pictures. Check it out too before you get started.

Jen

 

[romigenv]

Yes, Kyles write-up is also helpful, but it seemed like that was for a DI. Some of the bolt locations were different on mine and the EE write-up seemed to apply directly. I could be wrong though. Engine bay seemed different in the photos. I kind of combined the two write-ups and had printouts of both while doing the job. I referenced them quite often.

Chris,

I ran out to our local fair grounds at lunch and decided to snap a few photos while there. Again, no way to compare what the height difference is since these are "after" photos. FWIW here are four photos. I will say that in the photo of the front, you can see the front diff. which you couldn't see before from this angle indicating the raised height of the vehicle.

J.

 

[Gordo]

my thoughts

I have changed springs several times on both my D1 and my Rangie (3 times now). I have tried both with compressors and w/o and find it easier and safer to not use the compressor. Basically, remove the shock, tire and spring retainer and drop the axle down on a 4x4 board. Carefully jack the frame up to articulate the axle and pop out the spring. Watch the brake lines. If they extend too far they will break. You could remove the caliper if that helps to give you room. If the axle will not articulate enough to drop the spring (probably only a front issue) then use your bottle jack to spread the axle and frame a bit more. I think this is the easiest way, but have never tried it on a DII. Gordo.

 

[Kyle]

Its either because you have a cheapie compressor or you dont know how to use it. I can do all four springs in just under and hour with a good compressor and everything going my way.... All this other jacking and removing shit is for the birds. You are just changing springs and shocks.

 

[Gordo]

Maybe

Yeah, I am not saying it is the best way, just the best way I have done it. I rented my spring compressor from Autozone and it was junk. The first one they gave me went inside and it was down right dangerous. The second one went outside and worked much better. I believe this was actually a strut compressor. Most of us dont own our own compressor and honestly dont change springs enough to make it worthwhile. I personally did not have to remove my brake lines or caliper on either my D1 or RRC to unseat the spring. Just a different way of doing it and very simple. Take it as you want but either way will work. Gordo

 

[dmcfarlane]

You mean you worked on your truck and you didn't need a 10mm socket

Seriously, thanks for the comments, since I have similar plans in my immediate future. Looks like I'll be getting me a spring compressor.

 

[lacrits68]

Hi J...

in picture P1020591.JPG i can see that you have recovery point in front.
How are they attached to frame? do they work without disturbint the airbag installation?
looking myself for recoverypoint in front without destroying the original bumper. Do you have any closeup pic's`? or do anyone else have?

was looking rovertym products but never got an answer to my mail from them!

have a nice eve all!

--J--

 

[clayatem]

You mean you worked on your truck and you didn't need a 10mm socket

The cross member on the DII has the 10mm
At least ford has not made them use the 5.5mm

 

[romigenv]

The front shackles are attached to a location on the "brush bar" where it attaches to the frame. The bar came with the truck when I purchased. The bar is mounted to frame just in back of the shackles that you see via a flate 1/8 to 1/4 inch steel plate. Not sure if this is standard LR bar or not. My guess is not. Since it is mounted to the bar mounting plate and then to the frame, I don't think it would interfere with the air bag restraint system. But, I never thought about it.

There was a hole in this plate which looked like a good place to hang a shackle.

I don't have close-ups, but could work on getting a pic.

J.

 

[p m]

I can do all four springs in just under and hour with a good compressor and everything going my way....

Kyle, I bet you start counting time when your big-ass trolley jack is under the axle already, and stop the clock accordingly.
FWIW, I put the _rear_ air springs back into the LWB, with hose, tee, and schraeder valve. Beats the shit out of coils.

 

[romigenv]

The cross member on the DII has the 10mm
At least ford has not made them use the 5.5mm

You are right. I forgot to add the 10 mm to the list of tools. I don't get the different size bolts for the various components. Some bolts seem beefy, while others seem a little, well, wimpy. Like the 10 mm bolts you mention on the front cross-member. For such a stout piece of metal that is sure to get banged once in a while, it seems the bolts should be bigger. I guess it doesn't get much lateral pressure though. They rounded off quicker than a block of ice through a snow cone machine. I tried good brand sockets, closed and open ended wrenches, but no luck, so I compressed the spring with ropes and turnbuckles. This actually worked like a charm, was safe, and quick. Nothing stuck out from the spring (like the arm of a compressor) so I could swivel spring how I needed it. Nothing to slip off. Only ropes to break, but I used four separate ropes and buckles.

Now that I think about it. I would compress the springs the same way if I had to do it again.

 

[Kyle]

If they dont go limp on ya PM.... Better keep some Viagra handy

 

[p m]

Viagra in this particular case would be a spare air spring. Replacing an airbag on a classic makes spring replacement look like a big project - four clips, air line, and bag's out!