How to remove console to access/repair CDL on a Disco 1

[nosivad_bor]

picture comparing old and new sensors. it appears that my old one was seizing up. at the tip there is a spring loaded tip which should freely go in and out. mine was sticky. when you lock the cdl there is a little metal pin which slided under this spring loaded pin and triggers the light on or off.

 

[nosivad_bor]

while i had the cdl on the bench i took it apart and cleaned it but i think no pictures are needed for that.

i simply reversed procedure to get everything back together.

be sure to go for a spin around the block to make sure the difflock sensor is adjusted and working properly before putting everything back together.

reinstall the cdl assy and reconnect the cdl linkage , this was the hardest part. i found it easiest to hold the metal clip with pliers and slide the clip by hand.

some out there say to put screw back in to hold the cdl boot in but i chose to rerivet. i got this nice rivet gun with a swivel head and allowed me to get all the rives back in with ease.

 

[nosivad_bor]

the rest of it is all the reverse of taking it apart. feel free to post questions or comments now.

 

[nosivad_bor]

greg, i am so dissapointed in you...

 

[nosivad_bor]

oh

forgot to mention while you have the console and rubber mat out, you had better clean that stuff spic and span. i used purple power degreaser and it came out so clean it was amazing. the rubber mat is feeling very grippy again.


now i know what some of you are thinking. your inner monica lewinsky wants to save that stain on the side of the console from the night you met that chick you dated before you got married.

trust me - if the old lady finds out thats your evidence and not dairy queen. it could end up causing THE fight to end the marriage in which she will have her lawyer impound the truck to get the evidence off of the console, this will be used in court to prove what a loser deviant you are and how all you do is surf land rover sights day and night week after week,,, um ,anyway, pretty please with sugar on top clean the fucking console.

 

[GregH]

http://www.links2love.com/music/mrgrnchbc.wav

 

[NHESS81]

ok...detailed write up...where on the t-case is the diff-lock sensor located? my diff lock light takes a long time to turn on and it takes a long time to lock up--everything works fine, just is like 'delayed.' had a rover tech tell me that its probably the actual sensor going bad, i would like to check into it, but would rather avoid tearing through the console.

i could not find a satisfactory picture on the location of the diff-lock sensor from rave.

 

[Discotec]

Having done this job on 2 Discos, i think this is a very helpfull post.....
I keep a shop vac handy to clean up the swarf from drilling out the rivetts.....

Well done... I think it should go to the tech section

 

[nosivad_bor]

oh

I forgot to post the pictures from the manual. I will get those on there tonight.


with the CDL removed look straight down , birds eye you will see the wires going to it. also worth mentioning i think you can change this sensor out from under the truck removing the driveshaft., but i wanted to see what exactly was going on in there.

 

[nosivad_bor]

couple more picts

 

[Steve Rupp]

Man, check out the big brain on Brad. You're a smart muthafucker.

 

[NHESS81]

Thanks rob...looks like i will be able to access the switch by just taking off the driveshaft--I've looked at the RAVE and i guess, its one of those things that you need to stare at it for a bit and it becomes clear...that or, dont try to read RAVE at 1am...

 

[rovin-e]

This write up is great! My diff light isn't working either. Before I tear into all this, how do I know it's not just the bulb? I've had more than a few bulbs go out. (Very green. First Rover and only had about 1 1/2 yrs.)

 

[nosivad_bor]

very simple to test it

crawl under the truck and get yourself in front of the front axle looking to the back , with flashlight and pictures shown here identify the difflock sensor. remove the two plugs on top of the sensor by pulling up on them, they are just wedged on to typical blade type connectors.

now put a metal wire or something between the two blades to complete the circuit, hurry back and look at the dash for the light to be on.

if it's on the bulb is good

 

[nosivad_bor]

ah one more thought, replace both bulbs that light up the gear shifter while you have this torn apart , they have them at any autoparts store - you just have to match up the ones that look right. while your in this far its a great thing to change out. both mine were burned out and i have to say having the gear shifter lighted again is almost better than having my difflock work, almost. i think the bulbs were three dollars for a 2 pack.

 

[rovin-e]

Sounds good. Thanks for the info. I'll try in the AM. Does anyone have experience with starting trouble? My discovery wouldn't start the other day when I was going to work. All fuses are good. Checked pwr at the fuel pump and had none. I bought the relay from my local dealer but don't see where it goes. Tried R side kick plate and only find different relays. None that are the silver Bosch. After reading some threads here it sounds like that shouldn't be my problem? Any help is greatly appreciated! Also I see people here talking about codes. How do I find these fault codes? Is there a plug-n-test I should get? Thanx again y'all, (Told ya I was green!).

 

[rovin-e]

P.S. GO SAINTS!!

 

[hoops1]

My series 1 discovery diff lock had seized. High and low no problem. Thanks to your pics I have stripped the casing down and managed to free the seized rod which now works perfectly. Saved me some money to!! Cheers.

 

[Asolo3j]

Great write up. Just wanted to add that for a 5-speed it's just as easy.

You do, however need to remove the gear shifter as the boot does not come off. There is a small bolt holding the gear shifter to the shift linkage. Remove the bolt and you will remove the boot along with it. Once that is out of the way, makes things a whole bunch easier. Just remember to slide it back on temporarily when you go for your test drive. Don't forget to add some lubricant in the top where the gear shifter entest he trans. Mine was all full of junk and debris. Cleaned it out and threw some grease in there.

On the 5 speed, my rubber gasket that surrounds the trans shifer was all torn and ripped up. I salvaged as much as I could, trimmed out a couple hanging pieces and used some RTV. Looks good. If I have to get back in there, I will remember to buy a new gasket.

I also replaced the pin/clip on the dif lock lever with a bolt and nylock nut, next time I am in there, I am going to do the same with the brake lever cable.

 

[UK 4X4]

some extra notes........

Don't rivet the plate back on, use sheet metal screws....for on the trail access.

Whilst in there take out the high low lock solenoid and throw it away......its only there on North american models and when fails stops you shifting...you can also just chop of the pin...so that it can't engage

I too replaced dodgy pins and clips with metric grade 8 allen screws and nylocks.

Also check the high/low shifter linkage for wear....mine snapped at moab