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ShaunP
Guest
An exact replacement made / sold by GOSS is available in Oz for $100 goes straight in no changes.
ShaunP said:
Are you talking block heater? I know these are installed in place of a freeze plug, but I'm wondering if there is an easier alternative. It was -20 last night and there's no way I can deal with pulling a freeze plug.
AWESOME tech article. !! thats great know how for the future, im definitly going to do this conversion... do the plugs bolt right up??
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boulderbear
Guest
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ShaunP
Guest
In regards to the block heater (should be a separtate thread?) Up here you can get magnetic ones that you can put on the block or transmission or transfer case etc........ much easier but I think the freeze plug types are a better long term solution.
This is indeed a great write-up. I did this today myself, and I'd like to add a few caveats:
1. The seal around the pump assembly was VERY tight in my vehicle...it took quite a bit of pulling to get it to slide out. There's an eye built in to the plastic around the in-out ports. Shop manual says to pull on this part only (not the in-out ports themselves, for obvious reasons). I used a dog leash, myself; did great for a straight-up pull. Same for getting it back in; I used the rubber-coated handle end of my rubber mallet and pushed down on the edges a little bit at a time.
2. If you remove your float, watch out for your wires, especially if they're corroded. One of mine was very heavily corroded, and as soon as I removed the float, the wire came loose. I had to completely remove it and solder a replacement in before putting the pump assembly back in to the tank. (Of course, this is optional, if you don't mind your dashboard fuel gauge/warning light not working...)
3. Remember which fuel line is which. You shouldn't lose track, but mark them just in case.
Other than that, everything is exactly as Boulderbear described, and yes, my truck is running better now than it did before!
1. The seal around the pump assembly was VERY tight in my vehicle...it took quite a bit of pulling to get it to slide out. There's an eye built in to the plastic around the in-out ports. Shop manual says to pull on this part only (not the in-out ports themselves, for obvious reasons). I used a dog leash, myself; did great for a straight-up pull. Same for getting it back in; I used the rubber-coated handle end of my rubber mallet and pushed down on the edges a little bit at a time.
2. If you remove your float, watch out for your wires, especially if they're corroded. One of mine was very heavily corroded, and as soon as I removed the float, the wire came loose. I had to completely remove it and solder a replacement in before putting the pump assembly back in to the tank. (Of course, this is optional, if you don't mind your dashboard fuel gauge/warning light not working...)
3. Remember which fuel line is which. You shouldn't lose track, but mark them just in case.
Other than that, everything is exactly as Boulderbear described, and yes, my truck is running better now than it did before!
I did this for the first time this weekend, and the write up is spot on.
It was so easy I couldn't believe it. I thought I was missing something.
Only thing, it isn't 1/2 inch line, it was 5/16 line.
It was so easy I couldn't believe it. I thought I was missing something.
Only thing, it isn't 1/2 inch line, it was 5/16 line.
Great article!
Would be great somebody attempted to dismantle a D2 pump. I guess the layout is pretty similar, and the motor, too. What really freaks me out is the "special, non serviceable-built-in paper filter" which covers the pump motor.
Regards,
Robert
Would be great somebody attempted to dismantle a D2 pump. I guess the layout is pretty similar, and the motor, too. What really freaks me out is the "special, non serviceable-built-in paper filter" which covers the pump motor.
Regards,
Robert
Great article!!!! Since I've never dealt with fuel pump issues before, how does one know if it's gone bad?
Also I've been getting pretty bad mileage well what I mean by that is when I upgraded to 31" BFG's MT I was getting around 12mpg for sometime and then it dropped to 9mpg. Is it time to replace the fuel filter? All I've done so far is replace spark plugs and air filter but still 9mpg. Any thoughts? And don't slam me with if u wanted better mileage get a honda crap
Also I've been getting pretty bad mileage
well what I mean by that is when I upgraded to 31" BFG's MT I was getting around 12mpg for sometime and then it dropped to 9mpg. Is it time to replace the fuel filter? All I've done so far is replace spark plugs and air filter but still 9mpg. Any thoughts? And don't slam me with if u wanted better mileage get a honda crap same here am wondering if my pump is bad, I have about 35 psi at rail but when I use the releif valve the presure is very weak. Like the pump is having a hard timing keeping up. it runs kinda rough, will not free rev over 2000 rpm. Filter was plugged, changed that. Fuel smells bad. Disco was sitting for about 6 months waiting on trans which is done now. thanks for any info.
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lila329
Guest
Great write up!
Replaced the pump in my 99 Disco I.
Question... is the pump always gonna be that loud from now on!!! Or is it just me
Replaced the pump in my 99 Disco I.
Question... is the pump always gonna be that loud from now on!!! Or is it just me
ptschram
Well-known member
I have two comments that are related. When determining if the original pump is truly bad, the test method suggested assumes tha tthe power supply to the pump is good. It is imperative that the power supply be tested before the pump is tested. Your test light is your friend.
Also, when testing pressure at the pump, be aware that the pressure can be significanly more than the 35 psi you'll find at the fuel rail. Rail pressure is determined by a number of factors, pressure regulator, etc. When the return line is blocked, th presure will rise very quickly.
PT
Also, when testing pressure at the pump, be aware that the pressure can be significanly more than the 35 psi you'll find at the fuel rail. Rail pressure is determined by a number of factors, pressure regulator, etc. When the return line is blocked, th presure will rise very quickly.
PT
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rovin-e
Guest
Hey ya'll! New to the site. Seems great! Well I have a '98 disco which was running fine. Tried to leave for work yesterday and wouldn't start. Turns over but seems to not be getting fuel. Symptoms seem to point towards fuel pump. Fuses are all fine. Can not hear anything from fuel pump when key is turned. I don't have gauges but manually tested at fuel bar and got not even a sputter. Are there any other checks I should make before diving into the fuel pump? Also does the pump in the above (spectacular) write up as good as going with the landrover one and save enough $ to be worth getting? I got my rover right before Katrina and this is the first major repair I have had to tackle.(Oh, first rover too.) All ya'll seem really helpful and knowledgable so I appreciate any tips or insight. Thanx!!
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sanger
Guest
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gregoryoconnor
Guest
Wow, :victory: Your post saved me big time. My 1998 discovery 101,000 miles stopped and I determined it was the fuel pump. No 12V to the pump. No 12V on either side of the resetable inertia switch ( firewall) . all fuses were good. I called InlandRover (RiversideCa) for stock and price on a multifunction relay and they told me "the MFR do not go out very often, pull the pump and bench test it."
I pulled it and replaced the bad pump via the instructions from this thread :applause: . For some reason the volts to the pump reappeared once I reinstalled the pump?????? I dont know it it was from digging around testing things under the passanger side wall or what
I hope ther are no othe issues that will pop up with this fix.
Note
** The four pin connection white/purplestripewire pin is positive, black wire pin (rear left) is ground. the other front(closer to front of car) two are for the fuel gauge. I think the three pin is for smog????
**The 1/2 inch fuel line was too big, I used 1/4inch Interior diamater injection fuel line from Kragens 5/16 was a better fit on the male ends but I could not fit the hold down bracket over the od.
** Multifunction relay is under hood next to the window washer tank it had two wire clips on it, it is the size of a deck of cards, black
Thank you
I pulled it and replaced the bad pump via the instructions from this thread :applause: . For some reason the volts to the pump reappeared once I reinstalled the pump?????? I dont know it it was from digging around testing things under the passanger side wall or what
I hope ther are no othe issues that will pop up with this fix.
Note
** The four pin connection white/purplestripewire pin is positive, black wire pin (rear left) is ground. the other front(closer to front of car) two are for the fuel gauge. I think the three pin is for smog????
**The 1/2 inch fuel line was too big, I used 1/4inch Interior diamater injection fuel line from Kragens 5/16 was a better fit on the male ends but I could not fit the hold down bracket over the od.
** Multifunction relay is under hood next to the window washer tank it had two wire clips on it, it is the size of a deck of cards, black
Thank you
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staycandlevon
Guest
I love the write-up. Very detailed and clear, better than RAVE. Where can I find a pump removal tool, though?
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ajh
Guest
Has anyone done something similar for the D2? Need to add a fuel filter since they don't ship with one... wonder what they're thinking with that, the crud in old fuel station and 3rd world fuel supplies is really not so injector friendly.