Door lock Actuator Nightmares
- Thread starter bobkitten
- Start date
Springsroverfamily said:
Get a hold of Will Tillery for lock actuators, and do it yourself. That's WAY to much from the dealer.
My 03 has had it's back drivers lock has been superlocked for over a year and I never knew how to fix it until now.. Thanks for posting this one...
I replaced my front right actuator this morning. Still no work. Is there possibly a fuse that could be out? What else can I look for?
The rear door actuator is a son a bitch. Why the F did they put that black panel piece all the down that's bolted down with a large torx screw? You can't the actuator out?
Off to Home Depot, hoping they sell large torx screws. :banghead:
Off to Home Depot, hoping they sell large torx screws. :banghead:
Well, I strip the torx screw to loosen the window frame. I drilled it out. And I still struggled getting the actuator out. So I got mid evil on it and grabbed a pair of plumbers plyers and bent the metal out to make the opening larger.
That worked. The title says it all. The rears are pain in the ass.
That worked. The title says it all. The rears are pain in the ass.
Thanks for the collective wisdom going on here I did mine front right today in a fairly short time. Roverparts put a helpful video on youtube on removing the door panel (I was dreading this part, hate dealing with braking plastic clips), so I bought extra clips and receptacles from them just in case, panel popper and the new actuator @$138. Another VERY helpful idea was not to pull the window frame rail but to loosen/unscrew the bottom bolt holding it as well as the large torx (27) on the mid side of the door which also secures the window glass rail. Once I had that freed, (glass stayed up) wobbling the old actuator out and putting in a new one was a relative breeze. A bit of time took to adjust the white plastic clip that holds the rod from the door handle outside. So, make sure, double check everything works before assembling it all back together. Spare clips / sockets came in handy. A magnet Philips screwdriver is recommended. I took my time to apply strong tape on the tears in the clear plastic cover that got thorn in places, and also applied b-quiet (dynamat-like thick film) on the inside of the door as far as I could reach. I used the same on the inside of the roof when the headliner was redone and it decreases the highway noise considerably for me not to even think twice about the pretty steep price for the stuff! All in all probably took me over an hour but i was doing this for the first time so was being extra careful. Oh, the black rubber weather seal has to go back before you secure the top clips back on, and it helps to lower the window at that point as it is held in place by metal tooth that only have one millimeter of space to catch to the metal frame of the door. Once it is in and sits correctly (flat) then go the upper clips! Thanks again for very helpful writeups on this. No paying $300 to the stealer on this one.BenDronsick said: