Dealer says my engine is leaking oil because it is synthetic.. BS?
- Thread starter Jupiter Rover
- Start date
roverboy03 said:
You can keep using the M1 10w40 HM. Why do you want to switch? Does it get too cold in winter?
I noticed that you have 95K miles on your discovery. How long have you been using M1 10w40 HM?
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Jupiter Rover said:
no no 10w40 hm is good stuff for the temps here both winter and summer...and i've been running it for two and a half years now....since i owned the vehicle...it had i wan2 say 76k when i got it...it was owned by an old lady who had all the services oil changes and everything done at philips LR here in va beach where she bought it new.....she gave me all service records and documents proving they were not only done....but done on time and done right which i was very happy about....plus i was 16...wat 16 year old wouldnt want a landrover as his first car
Lucky find! Okay. Well If you have been using the M1 10w40 HM for so long and REALLY want to see if it is doing its job you can get a UOA, Used Oil Analysis, for $22.00. It will tell you if there is metal in your oil and if their is engine wear ect ect. It is a good way to see how the oil is doing in your engine.roverboy03 said:
If I were you and I really wanted to know, I would just get a UOA. And if the report comes back bad then switch to a new oil.
Here is the site. It took me about a solid week to get back the results. Also, you don't need to drain all the oil. You can either just drain a little or use some kind of pump and pump some out.
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/free_test_kit.html
P.S. I'm a little obsessed about Motor oil.
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Jupiter Rover said:
well considering the importence of it....thats not a bad thing...and for someone like me whose young and is willing to soak up your knowledge/wisdom/obsession like a sponge it sure does help...so thanks for everything
roverboy03 said:
ha no problem. Chris-st-louis knows his stuff too. By the way, check your PMs.
I've gotta ask a question but I'm afraid that I may get abused but I guess I'll give it a shot. To be honest, I've scanned this entire thread but haven't read it word for word. anyway, flame suit on!:
I'm running amsoil 5w-40 for at least 2 changes (every 3-4k miles)
I've notice a tapping or knock developing.
I would like to give Rotella a go after so much reading about it.
Which Rotella is best and which weight?? :
Shell Rotella? T Triple Protection
I have also noticed that there are several other options
T5
T6
So now after reading the thread and looking for a change, I'm all confused.
help!?!?
flame suit off.
I'm running amsoil 5w-40 for at least 2 changes (every 3-4k miles)
I've notice a tapping or knock developing.
I would like to give Rotella a go after so much reading about it.
Which Rotella is best and which weight?? :
Shell Rotella? T Triple Protection
I have also noticed that there are several other options
T5
T6
So now after reading the thread and looking for a change, I'm all confused.
help!?!?
flame suit off.
I believe Shell rebranded their Rotella line of oil. Rotella T 15w40 started to be labeled as Triple Protection. They had a Rotella T Synthetic, which was the 5w40, now labeled Rotella T6.
The T5 is a synthetic blend, and I believe it is 10w30, you might be able to find a 10w40.
I believe the new "Triple Protection" rotella is designed to have less wear on the cats, which is what was harmful about the previous version.
If you are somewhere mild (climate) try the triple protection 15w40, which will help lower the knocking and ticking. If you are somewhere colder, you might need the low end viscosity of the 5w40, which is the Synthetic T6 version.
When you read around here and hear people mention using rotella, they were talking about the Rotella T, which is now Rotella Triple Protection.
The T5 is a synthetic blend, and I believe it is 10w30, you might be able to find a 10w40.
I believe the new "Triple Protection" rotella is designed to have less wear on the cats, which is what was harmful about the previous version.
If you are somewhere mild (climate) try the triple protection 15w40, which will help lower the knocking and ticking. If you are somewhere colder, you might need the low end viscosity of the 5w40, which is the Synthetic T6 version.
When you read around here and hear people mention using rotella, they were talking about the Rotella T, which is now Rotella Triple Protection.
and as a comment, I ran rotella t 15w40 all winter last year, this year it has been too cold and I could barely turn my truck over in the morning. After reading another forum and learning about startup wear, I switched to the Rotella T6 Synthetic. Cost is about 8 bucks more a gallon, and it is noticeably thinner (duh). I had to tighten my drain plug down a second time because of the seepage, who knows where else it is seeping but I can keeping a closer eye on the level, the 15w40 didnt go anywhere.
I just changed from dino over to Mobil 1 10w40 High Mileage. It seems that the previous owner changed the oil in the truck every 3000 miles but when I bought it, the dealer had a local NAPA change the oil. I admit I should have changed it as soon as I got it but that didn't happen. Anyway, I'm hopeful that this is better for the truck but anxious to see if any leaks develop.
My lower mileage (50K) DII has Mobil 1 0w40 in it with no issues for the past 6 months.
My lower mileage (50K) DII has Mobil 1 0w40 in it with no issues for the past 6 months.
jymmiejamz said:
not all dealers are the same. Your dealership may be the holy grail, but you can't lump them all in to the same spectacle. There are plenty that lie, cheat, and steal.
jymmiejamz said:
I bought the truck from a VW dealer after the PO traded it for a diesel VW...advantage of that is that they really didn't know the value of the truck and they wanted it off their lot ASAP. Disadvantage was they didn't know how to service it properly.
if i use 10w30, my understanding is that I'm good from 22deg. F to whatever. should I run 5w so I'm covered for colder temps??
my understanding with a lot of this is sheer factor (HTHS) is the most important aspect. I tried "dumbing" it down for myself and have noted that a HTHS rating of 3.5 or higher is what we want in the engine. Diesel engine oils have this rating as a minimum, which is the reason everyone is going to rotella or the like.
the rotella t 15w40 was just too thick to turn over efficiently (for me in cold climate), from other articles this creates wear.
The 5w40 is thin enough to turn over yet still has an HTHS rating over 3.5..I have read it is around 4.2.
The zinc levels in the diesel engine oils is what kills catalytic converters, but I believe the triple protection has lower zinc levels than it previously had.
I am positive there is more to this but it hurts my head.
the rotella t 15w40 was just too thick to turn over efficiently (for me in cold climate), from other articles this creates wear.
The 5w40 is thin enough to turn over yet still has an HTHS rating over 3.5..I have read it is around 4.2.
The zinc levels in the diesel engine oils is what kills catalytic converters, but I believe the triple protection has lower zinc levels than it previously had.
I am positive there is more to this but it hurts my head.
adriatic04 said:
That still doesn't explain why the dealer would have Napa change the oil... Unless I am misunderstanding this it sounds like the dealer took the vehicle to a Napa to have the oil changed. I'm fairly confident that technician at EVERY Land Rover dealer in the country can change oil. I'd be a bit worried having a dealer work on my truck if they can't even change the oil...
