It took me about ten minutes to remove the 8 bolts that fasten the rear jump seats. It would have taken about half the time if they wouldn't have slathered the bolts with blue Loc-Tite at the factory.brianhoberg said:
ultimate cargo setup
- Thread starter varova87
- Start date
Resurrecting an old thread 'cause I finally got around to doing mine.
It is constructed of Birch plywood. I used aluminum plating for the drawer faces and paddle latches that lock. I was on the fence with the carpet color. I decided to go black due to the dirt factor. It is securely mounted to the floor, but with the turnbuckle connections, it comes out in less than a minute. I also herculined the inside of the drawers. Lastly, I installed some additional tie downs.
Next project will be the subwoofer enclosure and rear door table.
Since the picture posting is unavailable here are links to some photos:
Bofore
Box construction
Bottom rails
Inside drawer
Tie downs
Front shot
Mounted in the truck
Drawer open
Securely mounted
It is constructed of Birch plywood. I used aluminum plating for the drawer faces and paddle latches that lock. I was on the fence with the carpet color. I decided to go black due to the dirt factor. It is securely mounted to the floor, but with the turnbuckle connections, it comes out in less than a minute. I also herculined the inside of the drawers. Lastly, I installed some additional tie downs.
Next project will be the subwoofer enclosure and rear door table.
Since the picture posting is unavailable here are links to some photos:
Bofore
Box construction
Bottom rails
Inside drawer
Tie downs
Front shot
Mounted in the truck
Drawer open
Securely mounted
Last edited:
Very nice. I like the metal fronts, and the latches are a great solution - handle and latch and lock all in one.
Here are a few ideas from a local company here is South Africa. We have quite a few of them manufacturing systems for the various 4x4's on the market....... but, damn expensive, so I'm in the process of designing my own.
2 drawers on the bottom (which take up the entire back door), 200mm high, with the fridge/freezer mounted on a slider on top of that.
MAterials of construction:
1,2 mm thick galvanized mild steel plate bent in a box bender to the required shape.
There are 2 systems used for the sliding mechanism for the drawers: either bearings which run on a bent-up square section of the galvanised plate, or heavy duty drawer slides.
Marine ply top.
Entire drawer system is covered with carpet which has been glued on with contact adhesive. Especially the inside of the draws to stop the goodies inside from rattling.
I will be using these materials with drawer slide as apposed to the bearings.
As for the 12 inch sub...... I have removed the rear door liner and am in the process of making engineering drawings to machine a 3mm thick aluminum plate, on my CNC router, to mount there. Will be powder coated light beige to match the rest of my interior. This provides a great sable substrate to mount stuff on.
I will be posting the install on the tech section once I have finished.....and yes I will e-mail any interested parties a DXF file for machining if they want...
http://www.panelbeaters.co.za/packing_sys.html
2 drawers on the bottom (which take up the entire back door), 200mm high, with the fridge/freezer mounted on a slider on top of that.
MAterials of construction:
1,2 mm thick galvanized mild steel plate bent in a box bender to the required shape.
There are 2 systems used for the sliding mechanism for the drawers: either bearings which run on a bent-up square section of the galvanised plate, or heavy duty drawer slides.
Marine ply top.
Entire drawer system is covered with carpet which has been glued on with contact adhesive. Especially the inside of the draws to stop the goodies inside from rattling.
I will be using these materials with drawer slide as apposed to the bearings.
As for the 12 inch sub...... I have removed the rear door liner and am in the process of making engineering drawings to machine a 3mm thick aluminum plate, on my CNC router, to mount there. Will be powder coated light beige to match the rest of my interior. This provides a great sable substrate to mount stuff on.
I will be posting the install on the tech section once I have finished.....and yes I will e-mail any interested parties a DXF file for machining if they want...
http://www.panelbeaters.co.za/packing_sys.html
Quentin said:Here are a few ideas from a local company here is South Africa. We have quite a few of them manufacturing systems for the various 4x4's on the market....... but, damn expensive, so I'm in the process of designing my own.
2 drawers on the bottom (which take up the entire back door), 200mm high, with the fridge/freezer mounted on a slider on top of that.
MAterials of construction:
1,2 mm thick galvanized mild steel plate bent in a box bender to the required shape.
There are 2 systems used for the sliding mechanism for the drawers: either bearings which run on a bent-up square section of the galvanised plate, or heavy duty drawer slides.
Marine ply top.
Entire drawer system is covered with carpet which has been glued on with contact adhesive. Especially the inside of the draws to stop the goodies inside from rattling.
I will be using these materials with drawer slide as apposed to the bearings.
As for the 12 inch sub...... I have removed the rear door liner and am in the process of making engineering drawings to machine a 3mm thick aluminum plate, on my CNC router, to mount there. Will be powder coated light beige to match the rest of my interior. This provides a great sable substrate to mount stuff on.
I will be posting the install on the tech section once I have finished.....and yes I will e-mail any interested parties a DXF file for machining if they want...
http://www.panelbeaters.co.za/packing_sys.html
Man you have been planning since January 2007. Lets get to work and post some pictures.
Heres a few piccys of my rear Door panel I did over the weekend
http://www.discovery2.co.uk/images/reardoor_panel/DSC_0267(medium).jpg
http://www.discovery2.co.uk/images/reardoor_panel/DSC_0272(medium).jpg
http://www.discovery2.co.uk/images/reardoor_panel/DSC_0268(medium).jpg
http://www.discovery2.co.uk/images/reardoor_panel/DSC_0271(medium).jpg
http://www.discovery2.co.uk/images/reardoor_panel/DSC_0274(medium).jpg
http://www.discovery2.co.uk/images/reardoor_panel/DSC_0267(medium).jpg
http://www.discovery2.co.uk/images/reardoor_panel/DSC_0272(medium).jpg
http://www.discovery2.co.uk/images/reardoor_panel/DSC_0268(medium).jpg
http://www.discovery2.co.uk/images/reardoor_panel/DSC_0271(medium).jpg
http://www.discovery2.co.uk/images/reardoor_panel/DSC_0274(medium).jpg
Thanks. Because I knew I was going to be covering it all with carpeting, I butt joined, glued and screwed. In addition, I used plied materials that I already had in my shop. If I was using solid wood, I may have constructed differently.emmodg said:
Thanks for the props Stu!
Any updates on the build? Thinking about removing my back seats since they dont get used much at all and doing something to the storage area.
what a great thread, glad to see somebody brought it back... My rear seats are coming out over christmas and have been racking my brain for the best setup that would suit my needs....
Ok, brining this thing back to life again. Just ran around Home Depot and Lowes trying to get some ideas for a storage area. Too much shit in the back and hate moving it around just to get to something. Any more bulids and pics?
Don't bother with Home Depot and Lowes, they are only good for small quantities of lumber. Your local metal supply place should have some decent stuff.
FWIW, if you build stuff in the back of the same height as folded rear seats, you may have just enough room to sleep in the truck, with your feet on the cubby box.
FWIW, if you build stuff in the back of the same height as folded rear seats, you may have just enough room to sleep in the truck, with your feet on the cubby box.
p m said:
Might have to check up on the local places, but how much lumber do you think i need? Its a shelf system with drawers, not a house build.
Been thinking about the fold down, sleep inside option as well. I want to make it light and strong, dont want to have a rain forest in the back if you know what i mean.
Last edited:
Don't use lumber. It is heavy, and it'll get wet and warp.Ballah06 said:
I tried to find one or several Zarges boxes to fill the D1's back, but I just couldn't find the right combination. So, I'll likely build a 10.5-11" tall aluminum box, taking up the entire loadspace of the truck.
You can build amazing shit out of Aluminum, depending on how anal-retentive and patient with the rivet gun you are. Two 20-gauge sheets with quarter-inch thin-wall square tubing sandwiched between them can be stiffer and stronger than 1/8" diamond-thread plate, and a lot lighter.
Oh, and I can't imagine roller-ed drawers not to rattle inside.
A
alzerom
Guest
New Member comment: Disco 1997 w 215k / brushbar, white, no sunroofs. Planning to modify for solo voyage of Pan American Hiway. These cargo area ideas are GREAT. I don't like the idea of 200-300 lbs of materials just to make boxes though so I scouted for new material ideas. I found this honeycomb material that will support the weight and only weighs a few pounds, plus sound deadening.
http://nida-core.com/english/nidaprod_honey_h8pp.htm
The materials website shows it used for large boat hulls so it's probably strong enough. Has anyone tried this material yet?
I'm going to try it, and I'm looking for someone with experience. I like the idea of a complete interior for under 50 pounds.
This guy built his external camper shell of the material:
http://thesupercamper.blogspot.com/
David is in Raleigh NC, retired and bored.
http://nida-core.com/english/nidaprod_honey_h8pp.htm
The materials website shows it used for large boat hulls so it's probably strong enough. Has anyone tried this material yet?
I'm going to try it, and I'm looking for someone with experience. I like the idea of a complete interior for under 50 pounds.
This guy built his external camper shell of the material:
http://thesupercamper.blogspot.com/
David is in Raleigh NC, retired and bored.
i used to sleep in my disco when i had the cargo thing in the back. push the front seats all the way forward and stack some stuff in the rear footwell. throw a twin full air mattress in the backa nd enjoy sleeping for two. very comfy.