Switching to synthetic after 150,000 miles?
- Thread starter pikey
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D
D Chapman
Guest
I have heard bad news about doing that, but it's aways one of those "friend of a friend of mine" story's. But really, why do you want to change? Reguardless, the motor is going to wear out. You already have 150k on the clock....I don't understyand why people spend more money now, when they are going to be spending even more money later on a new engine. How long can synthetic prolong an engine with 150k on it, really?
Depends on the reason for switching to synthetic. If you're going somewhere cold you're better off with synthetic than dino - then it doesn't matter what the mileage is. Also it would depend on how the engine got to 150k.
Jeff
Jeff
Not a good idea at that stage in a vehicles life. The seals are trained with Dino stick with it. Best thing you can do is replace the oil ever 3500-3000k miles
K
Kerr
Guest
I was told by two different delaerships not to change to sy after having run the other for a long peroid of time. (chevy, and dodge) not that it matters.
Also a lady here at work had a 97ish mercedes car, when mbusa went to full synthetic on all there cars, the dealers where told ( so they say) to switch the other car to syntehetic as well. they did it on her car and the older gasket would not hold the oil. So because of them doing this they had to rebuild her motor under warranty. Granted it could have been a freak deal.
I changed my jeep back in 96 at 50k to synthetic and could not tell any difference what so ever. it also didnt have any leaks.
I think with a 150K i would stick with what you have.
Also a lady here at work had a 97ish mercedes car, when mbusa went to full synthetic on all there cars, the dealers where told ( so they say) to switch the other car to syntehetic as well. they did it on her car and the older gasket would not hold the oil. So because of them doing this they had to rebuild her motor under warranty. Granted it could have been a freak deal.
I changed my jeep back in 96 at 50k to synthetic and could not tell any difference what so ever. it also didnt have any leaks.
I think with a 150K i would stick with what you have.
Thanks guys, I had the seals replaced a few years ago so that wouldn't be a problem; I just read some posts with guys saying that it cleans their engine and protects it better. I'm wanting to ensure that my truck will be able to last me for several more years, being that I'm young and can't afford to replace it. But, if you fellows don't think it's that wise then I won't, I just didn't want cause extra problems by switching. Thanks Again, Alon
Did the switch
I switched to synthetic at 187,000 miles two months ago. I'm on my second change, at about 196,000 miles and haven't noticed any changes, engine still isn't leaking or burining more than 1/2 quart per 3000 miles.
I switched the diff gear oil to synthetic as well.
I did the engine oil switch because I was commuting between Las Vegas and Calgary, Alberta and with winter coming on I wanted the 0w-30 Mobil 1 for those cold mornings.
Haven't noticed any difference in power or fuel economy. Headwind and tailwind seem to be bigger factors
.
I switched to synthetic at 187,000 miles two months ago. I'm on my second change, at about 196,000 miles and haven't noticed any changes, engine still isn't leaking or burining more than 1/2 quart per 3000 miles.
I switched the diff gear oil to synthetic as well.
I did the engine oil switch because I was commuting between Las Vegas and Calgary, Alberta and with winter coming on I wanted the 0w-30 Mobil 1 for those cold mornings.
Haven't noticed any difference in power or fuel economy. Headwind and tailwind seem to be bigger factors
.
I asked my mechanic last week who works on discos about doing this with mine with 108,000 on it. He said it was a bad idea. They suggest you do it no more than 30,000 on a rig.
Just my .02
Just my .02
S
syoung
Guest
Most people who say not to switch are basing it on urban legend and traditional misinformation. If you have a leak, synth can actually leak faster through the same size gap. Otherwise, it's nuttin but sweet synthetic goodness. "Trained Seals" are in the Navy or at Sea World, not in your Disco engine. If it leaks more, then go back to dino oil. Switching to synthetic will preserve the engine far better and although it has some miles on it, it will most likely last longer.
There's a lot of 'old school' aversion to synthetic oil, but new technology often suffers from people who think that way.
There's a lot of 'old school' aversion to synthetic oil, but new technology often suffers from people who think that way.
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1st Rover
Guest
I don't believe it is a bad idea.
I've run synthetic exclusively since the late '70s, everything from my garden tractor to turbo-diesel caterpillars, never have seen a leak start after the oil change. The highest mileage engine I switched was around 175,000miles. It will clean up the engine, it will start better in the cold. Mercedes' official stand on it when I was driving M-B was switch it, if the leaks increase (from the oil not thickening when it's cold) just switch back and the leak will decrease to before-syn levels.
The formulation of most syn oils emulates the same seal-swell characteristics as dinosaur oil (unlike the early synthetics) and many old-school mechanics don't know that. The same type of people in my experience who won't wear a seatbelt because a friend of a 2nd cousin has a neighbor who used to be married to a state cop and he was at an accident where the driver would have died if he were buckled in blah blah blah.
I'm not sure it is worth the money, but I won't run multi-viscosity dinosaur oil in anything so the extra $15 is a non-issue for me.
7,000miles on the last oil change, 72,000 on the clock (disco), no leaks no measurable consumption.
I've run synthetic exclusively since the late '70s, everything from my garden tractor to turbo-diesel caterpillars, never have seen a leak start after the oil change. The highest mileage engine I switched was around 175,000miles. It will clean up the engine, it will start better in the cold. Mercedes' official stand on it when I was driving M-B was switch it, if the leaks increase (from the oil not thickening when it's cold) just switch back and the leak will decrease to before-syn levels.
The formulation of most syn oils emulates the same seal-swell characteristics as dinosaur oil (unlike the early synthetics) and many old-school mechanics don't know that. The same type of people in my experience who won't wear a seatbelt because a friend of a 2nd cousin has a neighbor who used to be married to a state cop and he was at an accident where the driver would have died if he were buckled in blah blah blah.
I'm not sure it is worth the money, but I won't run multi-viscosity dinosaur oil in anything so the extra $15 is a non-issue for me.
7,000miles on the last oil change, 72,000 on the clock (disco), no leaks no measurable consumption.
D
D Chapman
Guest
The way I understand it, it's not the "leaking" factor that makes some not favor the idea of switching. I always understood it as the Syn oil would loosen all the grim in the engine that has built up over the years/miles, and clog oil journals...Weather it's true or not, I don't know.
But, I did change to Rotella T oil about 20k mikes ago (from Valvo). For what ever reason, after changing oils, and running the Rotella about 6-8k miles, the front oil seal on my 4.0 quit leaking. Weather or not it was oil related, I don't know, but I like to say it was.
But, I did change to Rotella T oil about 20k mikes ago (from Valvo). For what ever reason, after changing oils, and running the Rotella about 6-8k miles, the front oil seal on my 4.0 quit leaking. Weather or not it was oil related, I don't know, but I like to say it was.
syoung said:
You know we are talking about a 43 year old engine design. Seemed to work ok on 1963 oil. How much "Protection" does it need?
I dont think Synthetic is bad, I think it's overkill.
Dan,
You are right. Synthetic will remove a lot of that crap from your engine. It depends on how gummed up his engine is. Regardless, due in part to that fact, synthetic will prolong the life of any engine. It dosn't break down as fast as dino. The little chains in normal oil suffer almost immediate thermal breakdown, leading to clumping of the molecules. They build up over time causing the gum that synthetic loves to clean out. That dosn't sound too bad until you figure that synthetic (when changed properly) for all practical purposes, does not suffer thermal breakdown. It's not thinner than dino either. A 10W30 is a 10W30. It does, however, have more uniform flow characteristics.
If you have a leak, it will widen the gap by cleaning all the dinosaur spooge that got caught on the way out. But it will also do the same for your valvetrain, the heart of your performance. And that is a good thing.
Cheers,
Kennith
You are right. Synthetic will remove a lot of that crap from your engine. It depends on how gummed up his engine is. Regardless, due in part to that fact, synthetic will prolong the life of any engine. It dosn't break down as fast as dino. The little chains in normal oil suffer almost immediate thermal breakdown, leading to clumping of the molecules. They build up over time causing the gum that synthetic loves to clean out. That dosn't sound too bad until you figure that synthetic (when changed properly) for all practical purposes, does not suffer thermal breakdown. It's not thinner than dino either. A 10W30 is a 10W30. It does, however, have more uniform flow characteristics.
If you have a leak, it will widen the gap by cleaning all the dinosaur spooge that got caught on the way out. But it will also do the same for your valvetrain, the heart of your performance. And that is a good thing.
Cheers,
Kennith
S
syoung
Guest
Chris-St Louis said:
That's the kinda thinking I was talking about. It's an old design, but friction is friction. Remember when it was a huge accomplishment to get 100K out of an engine? A 100K mile Disco costs more now than a new Cadillac would have back in those days. How much protection does a $4000-$6000 engine need? All it can get.
I stand by the overkill statement
And heres why.
I have repaired many, many Land Rover engines. Some with 200+ plus on them. THe guys that change they're oil often AND maintained the breather(that will sludge a engine faster then antyhing) are very clean and so very little wear.
A good SF grade oil will be just fine. If synthetic makes you feel good, by all means use it.
In my professional opinion, it's overkill.
And, come on, If you have a 200,000 mile engine, the lifter wear is likely your least costly problem.
And heres why.
I have repaired many, many Land Rover engines. Some with 200+ plus on them. THe guys that change they're oil often AND maintained the breather(that will sludge a engine faster then antyhing) are very clean and so very little wear.
A good SF grade oil will be just fine. If synthetic makes you feel good, by all means use it.
In my professional opinion, it's overkill.
And, come on, If you have a 200,000 mile engine, the lifter wear is likely your least costly problem.
S
syoung
Guest
I used to think that way too until I saw the Mobil test of the million mile BMW engine. Changing the oil on schedule is a great thing, but using a superior product in my opinion is cheap insurance. Maybe I'm throwing away an extra $20 three times a year, ah well.
D
D Chapman
Guest
This is the way I see it...150,000 miles and changing the oil an adverage of 5000 miles. Thats 30 oil changes...
Syn Oil............$4.50qt x 6 quarts = $27.00
K&N Oil filter....10.00ea.
Over the 150k miles, thats a total of $810.00 in oil, and $300.00 in oil filters for a grand total of $1110.00
Reg Oil............$1.20qt x 6 quarts = $7.20
Wix (LR) filter...$7.00ea
Over the 150k miles, thats $216.00 in oil, and 210.00 in filters, for a total of $426.00.
You can get by with a less expensive oil filter too, but I just used the LR filter as an example....
So, that's a $684.00 difference over 150,000 miles. Personally, I don't see the value. I'm sure the Syn oil reduces wear, and prolongs engine life some, but what's a few thousand miles worth? The motor is going to wear out anyway, and that $684.00+ can be put towards a new engine, IMO.
Syn Oil............$4.50qt x 6 quarts = $27.00
K&N Oil filter....10.00ea.
Over the 150k miles, thats a total of $810.00 in oil, and $300.00 in oil filters for a grand total of $1110.00
Reg Oil............$1.20qt x 6 quarts = $7.20
Wix (LR) filter...$7.00ea
Over the 150k miles, thats $216.00 in oil, and 210.00 in filters, for a total of $426.00.
You can get by with a less expensive oil filter too, but I just used the LR filter as an example....
So, that's a $684.00 difference over 150,000 miles. Personally, I don't see the value. I'm sure the Syn oil reduces wear, and prolongs engine life some, but what's a few thousand miles worth? The motor is going to wear out anyway, and that $684.00+ can be put towards a new engine, IMO.
Theres people who lube their cars,
Then there are those who use synthetic.
Everything I have said has been true. Proper maintainance with synthetic oil will allow your engine a much longer life. You want to keep a car for 400,000 miles, use synthetic oil, actually change bushings and mounts when needed, keep your engine clean enough to eat off of, and in general do everything right.
Cheers,
Kennith
Then there are those who use synthetic.
Everything I have said has been true. Proper maintainance with synthetic oil will allow your engine a much longer life. You want to keep a car for 400,000 miles, use synthetic oil, actually change bushings and mounts when needed, keep your engine clean enough to eat off of, and in general do everything right.
Cheers,
Kennith