Starting problem, fuse problem?

[Asolo3j]

OK, So I drove 2 miles to get some dinner and shut off my 95 D1 and now it wont start.

102 K miles, just had the fule tank replaced and the fuule pump/filter, new alternator (less than 2000 miles), new battery (less than 2000 miles) and all visual fuses appear to be good. The truck makes a clicking sound when I turn the key from somewhere behind the passenger side dash. I droped the glovebox and the clicking is def from in that area. I made sure all fuses and connections were tight, no exposed wires for groudning problem, and visually everything looks fine.

Totally confused and dumbfounded... please help!!

 

[Asolo3j]

wow... i have horrible spelling

So i went thru Haynes and there is no real help there, i've searched thru the site and my problem is similar to others but most other starting problems posted already have a truck that cranks. Mine doesn't even crank over, nothing, nada, the check engine light is not on. Everything electrical seems to work just fine (lights, radio, AC, fans, windows, etc...).

I was so good today to, I fixed some rust, made the radio reception better, installed my CB antenna and cleaned the interior... but now she wont start!

Should i have it towed to the dealer or is this something that I can diagnose/fix?

 

[DiscoInferno Tampa]

JH,

This is pretty kooky, but my 97 D1 did the same thing this weekend. The clicking sound for me was coming from the passanger side kick panel. I ended up playing around for about an hour, and it finally started.

In looking here, there was a thread where Chris mentioned something about the ECU syncing with the security system, and if that was the problem, the check engine light will not come on for the 'bulb check'. When my CEL illeminated, my truck started fine. You may want to read the thread to see if it is relevant...

Good luck!

 

[Asolo3j]

When you say playing around for an hour... can you get any more technical? Did you pull fuses? Disconect the battery? Pull bulbs out? Or just give it a good swift kick?

I can not find that thread you mention... not sure if i am searching with the right phrases. I think it's something simple like a fuse or a loose connection and I would hate to got to the stealer and get charged $$$$ for something that I could have done myself.

 

[barefoot]

it was a recent post...mabe on page 2 or so

 

[Flashphoton]

D1 will not crank problem

On a 95 the circuit that engages the starter motor solenoid goes through the theft module and the shift selector switch. If your D1 thinks its being stolen, or isn?t in park or neutral then basically everything will seem to work except the starter motor will not crank. If your in park, then you might try simply disconnecting the battery for a few a few minutes then re-connect to see if that resets the theft logic. There is a connector on the theft module that you can disconnect and jump two pins that removes this possible source for start solenoid inhibit. Also there is a solenoid relay that could be the problem. On this relay there are a two pins you can jump that will energize the starter solenoid, short cutting all of the safeties and interlocks. If that doesn't crank the engine then its down to wiring, fuses, or the solenoid and starter motor itself.

CD

 

[DiscoInferno Tampa]

I think the thread was titled 'wont start' or something like that.

What I did was pulled the engine management fuses (I think it was 12 and 13 on my 97), and pulled the fuel management fuses from under the hood and pushed the fuel pump inertia switch for good measure. When I noticed the CEL came back on, I tried to start it and everything worked fine, and has for the past 3 days...

Good luck!

 

[Asolo3j]

I found the previous post and I will try all of the simple stuff first. Pull and check some more fuses, disconnect the battery, see about the starter and ignition relay...

Thank you for the input!

 

[Asolo3j]

still stumped

I tried all that was recomended and still nothing. I pulled fuses, unhooked the battery for 12 minutes and gave it some choice words... but nothing worked. I do not know where the starter solinoid or theft relay is or how to jump the connectors. Can someone give me better instructions and where these items are?

Thanks

 

[RoverJim]

I have had this problem happen to me also a few times. I would check the obvious like making sure that it is truely in park. I had a sticking selector once and occasionally it would not fully click into place. If the car thinks it is not in park or neutral, it won't crank/start. I had to remove the selector knob cover (prise out easily) and press the center bolt rod down to fully engage the park. Mine was sticking until I lubed it up. This can also create the problem of not being able to remove the key too, in case that condition arises with you sometime.

I read somewhere once here to tap on the brake pedal qickly many times in a row with the key in start position. As nutty as it sounds, it has worked and started my Rover. I have yet to figure out the relationship of this, but I have since cleaned all the electrical terminals related to the starter system and I haven't had this problem arise again (been about 2 months with fingers crossed). Give these a try and maybe someone here can truely explain the tapping hard on the brake pedal phenomena. I would like a good explaination for that as well. It did work in a pinch, but inquiring minds want to know. Good luck, hope you get it started.

 

[Asolo3j]

I have a 5 speed... so that eliminates the "park" issue.

Tapping the brake pedal? Is your ABS light on and would that be related to that problem? My ABS light is not on and it had started fine no more than ten minutes and 2 miles before. I am not too convinced that would be the solution, but I will give it a try.

How do I get to the starter solinoid and the theft relay? I look behind the golve box and the clicking from turning the key is definitely in that area... which fuse (or??) could be fouled, and what does it look like?

Haynes sucks for this!

 

[Asolo3j]

Tried the brake pedal idea but no luck with that. I set up an appointment with LR-Annapolis for Tuesday the 19, but I would like to have it figured out by then and not take it to the stealership.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[Flashphoton]

JH, give me a few days to lookup the relay location and wire color codes in the ETM. I'll post the info you need to jump the contacts that will feed power directly to the starter solenoid. That should crank the engine even if the key is off, and no matter what gear you're in. If this test is successful, then its not your solenoid or you starter motor, or the wiring to them. That leaves one of 1) theft control module 2) gear selector switch 3) ignition switch 4) wiring 5) the relay we'll removed for the purpose of this test. If this method fails to crank the engine then the problem is the starter motor, solenoid or wiring. Its a simple test. We unplug one of the relays down by the passenger's right foot and insert a jumper wire between two of the pins. Quick and easy, we just need to clearly identify the correct relay and the wire color codes will uniquely provide this information.

CD

 

[Asolo3j]

Sounds like it will help find out what is wrong. Thank you for your efforts and I hope we can figure out the mystery.

 

[Flashphoton]

JH, Here's the info I promised you. Look behind the kick panel on the passenger's side. Down near the floor you'll find about 6-8 relays mounted on metal tabs. You pull up on the relay, maybe wiggle them a bit and they'll pull free from the mounting tab. Look for one of those relays to have 4 wires that are colored as follows: Brown/White, Brown/Red, White/Red, and Black/Orange. Each wire has two colors, sort of a base color then a spiral stripe of a different color. Anyway, locate and remove the one relay that has just these for wire colored as listed. You'll notice that the Brown/White & Brown/Red wire are fatter than the other two wires also. With the relay pulled free from the mounting tab, then work the relay out of its connector socket. Once you've done that use something like a paper clip to jump together the Brown/White & Brown/Red pins in the connector socket. RE my previous post this should cause the starter motor to crank, and to do so no matter the various interlocks or even the ignition key. Make sure you in neutral. So let me know what happens when you run this test.

CD

 

[Asolo3j]

I'll give it a try later today and post my results...
Thank you!

 

[Asolo3j]

grrrrrr

Tried your recomendation and still no go.... I got so F'ing frustrated with it I called AAA and had them tow it to LR Annapolis, I will let them figure it out. I never thought I would ge this wound up over something that appears to be simple but not obvious. I know its somthing in the area we are attempting, but I just can't put my finger on it... litteraly.

At least I know how to put on my new tires once they arrive and then i can take out some stress on the trail!

Thank you again for all of your help. Once I hear from the dealer I will post.

 

[Flashphoton]

JH, The above steps were intended to be diagnostic only, not curative in and of themselves. The fact that this failed to cause the starter motor to operate indicates that the problem is the solenoid (mounted on top of the starter), or the starter itself, or the wiring to the starter or solenoid, or fuse MF5 (60 Amp) in the engine compartment fuse box or the battery terminals. Your problem could still be as simple as the high current cable leading from the battery to the starter has a poor connection at one end. Try to remain calm and systematically diagnose these Rover problems, otherwise you might not enjoy owning one of these machines.

CD

 

[Rover Puppy]

Clicking sound and no start...

I don't know if the D1 has the same features as the D2, but I've had that problem several times and I know why it happens on my truck and how to fix it.

Why... if the battery voltage drops beyond a certain point (even momentarily) from using auxillary equipment for a long time while my truck is off, my truck thinks it has been stolen and the fuel cut off switch must be reset before it will allow me to start my truck. I think that "clicking" sound occurs at the point that it wants to start and the fuel cut off switch says "no!"

Anyway, if this could possibly be your problem, there is a wacky order you have to do things in before you push the fuel cut off switch so that you can start it. Like, push the alarm disengage button on your remote, close ALL the doors and the hood, open the drivers door, then then open hood, then push the switch... something like that. If you don't do it in the proper order, you have to start all over again. Instructions for doing this are in the manual, but the instructions are not exactly clearcut and easy to follow.

Hope this helps... good luck Jamie

 

[mnwolftrack]

I've had the same thing happen twice on my '95 D1, both times different causes. The first time was a failing battery. As easy as that may sound to diagnose, none of the electrical lights dimmed or had issues or signs of a weak battery when I tried to start it. It just up and quit one day. I even tried jumping it with a portable jump pack and no luck. New battery, problem gone.

Then it happened again a month later. This time it was the little wire that hooks to the starter solenoid. Not the main wire that powers the starter, but the thin little one that uses the cheap electrical blade plug connectors. The blade connector in the plastic housing on the wire had gotten loose fitting and wasn't making a good connection. The fact that there were oil leaks didn't help either, as the starter was coated in oil (as is so common) and saturated the blade connector.