On my 95 RRC I removed the fan shroud but didn't remove the fan and I had plenty of clearance when we lowered the trans and tc down - YMMV. It was really helpful having 3 people at this stage as I was able to make sure nothing got pinched or bent, etc. in the engine bay as the other two guys manned the jacks on the Trans and TC and got everything lowered slowly and securely.
I had an adaptor plate (made per RAVE instructions) to fit to the bottom of the LT230 to use with a normal floor jack but the pin was too long and wouldn't fit my jack. If you have 2 people and a good floor jack you can balance it on there and get it up; the hard part is getting the angles right. Just take your time and work carefully.
Leave the CDL engaged so you can rotate the input gears from either output to get the input gears to line up with the trans output shaft (spud).
Definitley have a longer splined spud shaft on hand as you will most likely not have the right one on the RR.
Get both of the spud seals - the one for the Trans out and the one for the TC input. I would also recommend replacing the TC output seals before you do the swap - it's so much easier to replace these when it's off the truck (ask me how I know
) and while you're doing those you can check the condition of the TCase output bearings. Check out the tech section for an article on how to replace the bearings and seals:
http://www.discoweb.org/tcasebearing/index.htm
I removed the Neutral lock out solenoid and switch (the switch won't work properly for the RR since it's the reverse of what the RR expects) - I plugged the switch with a bolt, washer and RTV. I had the top-hat-on-a-plate looking lockout solenoid (my LT was also from a 96 D1 so yours should be the same style). I pulled the solenoid out, and if you rotate the cover 90 degrees, then the cutouts for the solenoid wires no longer line up and you still end up with about 2mm of overlapping metal at both spots so no opening to leak/have to plug. Add some RTV and you'll be good to go. Or just fab up a cover from some aluminum.
Since this is a Disco LT going into a RR you will need to splice the 2 wires that would normaly plug into the TC neutral warning switch - I just cut the harness off of the switch from my BW box, soldered and taped those and plugged that to the connector on the wiring harness. I tried and found the relay that turns off the buzzer but there is another relay involved which you can hear clicking if you pull the relay buzzer so I chose to just splice the wires.
You may need some extra bolts - I had one less stud on my donor LT and wasn't able to pull it from the BW - I need to check what size they were - M8 or m10 maybe? I also ended up needing a 4th bolt for the shifter linkage as my BW only used 3 and the LT has 4 - let me go home and go through my left overs and I'll post sizes tomorrow.
There is a tube/rod that connects the TC and Trans on the passenger side - I ended up having to rebend/reshape it after I got the LT on as it was interfering with my GBR DC front drive shaft.
I found the 2 wires for the CDL indicator switch in my wiring harness, plugged them into the CDL indicator switch but no go on the dash light which seems pretty typical for the 95 RRCs.
I also got some advice to apply a bead of RTV around the face of the trans to where it meets the TC, which I did and got some negative feeedback for doing this on Pirate. If you repalce both tf the seals you shouldn't have any leaks. I can't see that the extra seal made by the RTV is a bad thing though.