Rotoflex/Centralizing Peg

[Rover1]

I need to change my rotoflex coupler and was wondering if I need to change the centralizing peg as well or if I can just change the rotoflex? Also does anyone know if it is difficult to move the drive shaft enough to change the rotoflex?
Thanks

 

[deiaggie]

if you are just replacing the rotoflex with a rotoflex than you dont have to remove the peg. It took me about 10 min to remove the driveshaft with just hand tools. The nuts on the parking brake drum are 9/16" and the bolts on the rotoflex are 19mm. If you are converting to a Ujoint instead of the rotoflex, you will need to remove the peg which is not hard to do if you have a torch, a very large socket, a strong 8mm bolt and a thick washer and impact wrench.

 

[edthediscoman]

Moving the driveshaft is a piece of cake. Large screwdriver should push it towards the front. The front section slides so its pretty easy.
Loosen the 3 bolts for the driveshaft end, pry the flange forward on the car, and Bobs your uncle. Then the back can come off, and its all gravy.
(I would change to U-jointed shaft when you do this - get a used one and rear flange/spacer and done for life)
Ed

 

[Rover1]

So the entire driveshaft needs to be removed, or can i just undo the rotoflex end and slide it over to allow room for replacement? Haven't taken a good look at the front of the driveshaft yet . .
thanks again for the advice

 

[edthediscoman]

If you are just replacing the Roto...undo the 6 bolts at the roto end, and the rest slides forward. No need to undo the other end. It will move enough to clear the centralizing peg from the rear diff.
Ed

 

[jrsimpson]

I found removing the zerk grease fitting on the shaft allowed for even easier compression and removal. You will of course squeeze out some grease during compression.

 

[MUSKYMAN]

you dont need to change the centering pin...but you do very often need to change the pilot bushing in the end of the driveshaft.

If it is egged out and you swap just the roto the new roto will die in no time at all

 

[Rover1]

Is it possible to buy the pilot bushing for the end of the shaft?

 

[edthediscoman]

Where are you? I have a brand new one in my toolbox you can have.
I am in SoCal....PM me.
Ed

 

[amg61]

you dont need to change the centering pin...but you do very often need to change the pilot bushing in the end of the driveshaft.

If it is egged out and you swap just the roto the new roto will die in no time at all

where can i get a replacement pilot bushing? unless the one just mentioned is still available. also, is it hard to get that bushing out? my roto has a couple of cracks in it and i'm planning to just swap in a new one, but i read your comments on the pilot bushing and wanted to know what to look for.

 

[NHESS81]

I decided that the pilot bushing-rubber part on the inside of the bushing-looked more worn down than the replacement one I got with the new roto, so I thought, OK I have heard its hard to get out, but really how hard can it be?

It can be very hard! At least in my case. After two days of trying to get it out with everything I had including a slide hammer, I gave up. Took it to a local auto/machine shop and an hour later they had it out. Had to totally destroy the old bushing, had to crimp all the edges just to get rid of the adherence that it had on the inner part of the driveshaft. If you have some major cutting tools, then you can get it destroyed enough yourself to get it out. But it was not easy at all for me. I have heard people using torches to get the driveshaft warmer and expand but whatever, just bring it to an autoshop and have them get it out for you. You probably dont NEED to change it, but I figured hell, the shaft is off (couldnt get it compressed enough personally to get the roto off, so I had the whole thing taken off) might as well change the part. So, if you have a few 'days' that you dont need your truck, do the bushing, if you need your truck in 3 hours, dont do it....have fun!

 

[amg61]

OK, i'll leave the bushing alone, unless it REALLY looks bad. but, it's interesting that you said you had to remove the DS to get the roto out. I have read you can compress it enough to slip the roto out without removing the DS, but you said you could not. I would love to just leave the DS in place. I guess i'm concerned if i take it off, I'll put it back on in the wrong orientation.

 

[NHESS81]

OK, i'll leave the bushing alone, unless it REALLY looks bad. but, it's interesting that you said you had to remove the DS to get the roto out. I have read you can compress it enough to slip the roto out without removing the DS, but you said you could not. I would love to just leave the DS in place. I guess i'm concerned if i take it off, I'll put it back on in the wrong orientation.

Yeah, I know, maybe I didnt try to force the driveshaft to compress enough, but no matter what I did it seemed I was a half inch away...hmm

So anyway, taking the driveshaft off kinda scared me too (hey, I am still a new guy to LR, 4x4, and all the parts that come with em!) but it was easy, just used some PB Blaster to get all the bolts on the rear of the driveshaft and the four small bolts that dont seem like they could ever be strong enough-lol-on the e-brake side, and took em off...if you have some extra time, you might want to just take the whole DS off anyway. It will give you more experience with your truck, and our ladies like to be tickled with wrenches, she'll be much nicer to you!

But yeah, I just used some orange chalk to make markes on both ends of the driveshaft, then i made marks that lined up on the e-brake drum and the differential..thats how easy it is to 'put' everything back in orientation!

 

[Frank84]

just changed rotoflex and bushing last weekend - rotoflex can be changed without removing the driveshaft, but if you want to replace the bushing you'll need to remove it.

the bushing is a major pain, but i got it out after 2 hours with a hand held jig saw, a small chisel and screw drivers. this was my second time doing it and it wasn't any easier than the first. there's a "step" inside that the bushing sits on which makes it difficult to cut (for me at least). i cut in four places and bashed, bent, and mangled it till it was out.

i put lots of grease around the new one before installing and packed it full of grease to cut down on wear - both times i've done this i swear i'm going to just switch to shaft with regular u-joints but never seem to get around to buying one