Ran it out of gas.... :)

L

Leaks

Active member
Feb 13, 2010
33
2
Ran out of gas- now it (96 D1, 180,000 Miles) won't start. Can some one check my logic here?

1. More fuel...
2. Inertia switch
3. Fuel Filter
4. Fuel Pump

It rode a flat bed home last night after trying to get it started for a while. I checked the fuses that I knew to check and reset the Inertia switch (as best I could anyway.) No dice-

I checked for pres at the fuel rail and found none.

I stuck my head under the drv side rear wheel and listened. No "whirring".

Tonight when I get home my plan is to better determine the operability of the inertia switch (bypass?), change the filter, check for power to the fuel pump.

Sound right? Any glaring ommissions? Tips? Links to good fuel pump source...?

Thanks,
DB
 
adriatic04

adriatic04

Well-known member
Mar 22, 2007
2,506
2
cleveland, oh
when this happens dont you run the risk of overheating/killing the fuel pump? Also could have clogged fuel filter by sucking all the final much through.
 
L

Leaks

Active member
Feb 13, 2010
33
2
I think you are correct on both counts (or so I have read.) I hope my diagnostic plan-1st post- will capture either of those problems.

I'm also hoping to gather some ancillary info from the experts that graze here-
:D
 
L

Leaks

Active member
Feb 13, 2010
33
2
That may be the case but...it was out of gas...
I was late for a dentist appointment and couldn't take the time to fill up. :banghead:

I found several instances where he is accused of being the "fuel pump is broken guy":D

I'll take wisdom wherever I can get it.

Best,
DB
 
Mongo

Mongo

Well-known member
Apr 19, 2004
5,731
2
59
toasted the fuel pump...do a search, there are a couple of options to either fix it or replace it...
 
ptschram

ptschram

Well-known member
Sep 27, 2004
21,955
50
In the shop doing the Lord's work one broken Rover
www.ptschram.com
I've got new pumps in stock. $150 plus shipping.

But, before we go there, let's check to make sure we have power to the pump. If there is power to the pump and the pump don't run, I'm your man!

Why you might not want to go the Cheap Bastard route...
_1630.jpg
 
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KyleT

KyleT

Well-known member
Mar 28, 2007
6,059
8
39
Fort Worth, TEXAS
i ran out once, and it didnt kill the pump. it did take about 50 times of keying it on and off every 5 seconds to get fuel all the way back up there and get the air out..... sucked....
 
L

Leaks

Active member
Feb 13, 2010
33
2
Got it- I'll check for power tonight after I put the Inertia switch through the ringer.
 
L

Leaks

Active member
Feb 13, 2010
33
2
KyleT said:
i ran out once, and it didnt kill the pump. it did take about 50 times of keying it on and off every 5 seconds to get fuel all the way back up there and get the air out..... sucked....
Click to expand...

Thats interesting- I'll try that as well.
 
D Chapman

D Chapman

1
Jan 3, 2005
11,746
73
On Kennith's private island
If you do not hear the whine of the pump when you turn the key, that's a pretty good indication that you need to pull the pump cover and test the 12v leads.

No power = something else
Power = bad pump

Even if the filter is clogged it should try to start at least once. It would have to be REALLY clogged to cut off all gas flow.

Heat, crud, and mileage is what kills a fuel pump. You can avoid 2/3 if you do not allow the tank to fall below 1/4.

PT,
Is $150.00 supposed to be a good deal on a pump? Or are you selling the entire housing, etc.. for $150?
 
2

2FUELS

Guest
ptschram said:
The whole assembly-Non AEL, look at the pics and you'll see why I don't suggest the CB repair.
Click to expand...


Just put one of P.T.'s pumps in two weeks ago, It took all of 15 minutes outside in a parking lot!!
 
fishEH

fishEH

Well-known member
Jan 26, 2009
6,930
203
Lake Villa, IL
ptschram said:
Why you might not want to go the Cheap Bastard route...
http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt141/ptschram/Fuel%20pump/_1630.jpg
Click to expand...

Here's my situation, and I'd appreciate some input.
I went the Cheap Bastard route because Moab didn't have a whole assembly available, go figure. I found the conditions in the picture above. Cracked plastic, corroded fittings, etc. Got the pump replaced and put it back together. Codes were thrown indicating a leak basically. What's my best course of action here? Can I clean up the male fittings on the assembly and throw some plastic epoxy on the plastic pieces? What about the female fittings on the hoses, can those be replaced?
I have a new locking ring and gasket I plan on putting in. I don't want to have to tear into it more than once though. Thanks
 
aliastel

aliastel

Well-known member
Sep 27, 2009
942
0
Champaign, IL
KyleT said:
i ran out once, and it didnt kill the pump. it did take about 50 times of keying it on and off every 5 seconds to get fuel all the way back up there and get the air out..... sucked....
Click to expand...

Kind of surprised it took so much. I just replaced the fuel lines in my RRC, and it fired right up with completely dry lines in a few cranks. Of course then I checked for leaks and found the fuel pump top leaking like a sieve because it was rusted out (original metal top pump) Ordered a new one. I guess you mean air in the pump itself though . . . The original pump in my 96 Disco quit after I ran out of gas though. Now I always make sure to fill up at a quarter tank for good measure.

David
 
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KyleT

KyleT

Well-known member
Mar 28, 2007
6,059
8
39
Fort Worth, TEXAS
aliastel said:
Kind of surprised it took so much. I just replaced the fuel lines in my RRC, and it fired right up with completely dry lines in a few cranks. Of course then I checked for leaks and found the fuel pump top leaking like a sieve because it was rusted out (original metal top pump) Ordered a new one. I guess you mean air in the pump itself though . . . The original pump in my 96 Disco quit after I ran out of gas though. Now I always make sure to fill up at a quarter tank for good measure.

David
Click to expand...

d2 doesnt have a return line. IIRC classic does.
 
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