Preventing liners from slipping - idea

[MotoBando]

Since I have my 4.6 completely stripped and cleaned I am thinking about securing the liners to prevent slipping. It looks like top hat liners or pinning them in are the more common methods. What about putting one or two aluminum spot welds at the base of the liners (on the block itself) to prevent them from slipping them down? Of course it would require a little machining / cleanup with a Dremel before reassembly...but what do you guys think?

 

[skippy3k]

I think tophatting is better in the long run, because the head gasket then sits right on the lip of the liner, rather than the block. Even if the block cracks behind the liner, water and gasses can't get past the lip and into the cylinder, or pressurize the water and overheat it. Whereas if you pinned it, it could still go up and over.

 

[CandiMan]

Can you do me a favor. When I had my heads off, I also drop the oil pan to check the main bearings. For the life of me I couldn't see or tell where the liner was. I'm use to working on heavy duty diesel engines with liners so I figures I would have notce something. Are liners in both the 4.0 and 4.6? From what I'm hearing, both long blocks are the same between th 4.0 and 4.6.

Here's a pic of my clyinder, does the liner come to the deck?
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/2/web/3002000-3002999/3002336_117_full.jpg

The favor, can you take a pic of this infamous liner.

Also, what does the tophatting method consist of? I can firgure out pinning, I'm just not aware of tophatting.

 

[Jagfixer]

They are lined, don't know about the 4.2. The Jags used a Nikasel coating and had to replace the engines, but then they switched to steel lined, which would be in the newer Rovers.

 

[MotoBando]

There's a liner there - just look at the difference in the colors of the metal. I'll load up a pic in a bit..

 

[Revor]

at the bottom of the liner there is a place where you can drill and tap a hole though the block to the outside, the webbing is rather thin on the blocker there. Tap the hole for a 3/8 fine thread and stick a short button head cap screw in it use some serious loctite and lock washer action. Carefully grind it as close as you dare and have the cylinders honed for the final finish.
A trick from back in the days.

 

[lforgue8]

were those pistons cleaned already caue damn they are clean!

 

[ptschram]

at the bottom of the liner there is a place where you can drill and tap a hole though the block to the outside, the webbing is rather thin on the blocker there. Tap the hole for a 3/8 fine thread and stick a short button head cap screw in it use some serious loctite and lock washer action. Carefully grind it as close as you dare and have the cylinders honed for the final finish.
A trick from back in the days.

I used 1/4" hardware and they are ground off below the surface of the liner. Pics in general.

If one looks at the bottom of the cylinders, you'll see that in a couple of the cylinders, there is a very pronounced step that the liner rests against. In other cylinders, this step is less pronounced. It appears that the liners are to some extent already restricted in moving down under all but the most extreme circumstances.