Is there any decent P38 build threads or sites out there? seems like 90% of the stuff I have found is useless air susp issues or "my radio is turning on and off" type stuff... Maybe I'm spoiled by Dweb, but rr.net kinds sucks...
P38 Build?
- Thread starter KyleT
- Start date
RR.net didn't used to suck. It used to be the only place for quality P38 build threads. But there was a change in the guard and it became much "softer". I built a P38 for offroad, loved it, then I saw the light and sold it for a RRC. Now I know what love is. 
Over here the P38 is called a "second Range". I've only ever seen one that has been built up for the trails. I think their is not enough love for em.
The one that I saw was cool as hell and followed everyone. I say just go for it and do it! You'll learn as you go.
The one that I saw was cool as hell and followed everyone. I say just go for it and do it! You'll learn as you go.
How did the head gasket job go Kyle? She all running again? Discoinjapan, they don't always follow, a few weeks ago i lead the night run and got accolades from a built RRC and mod. LR3. "That P38 really handles well....????". My usual response "I love that truck." But, as Kyle knows, I do have a '91 GDE#003 project that is being revived and built for all my hard core desires. Parts are just cheaper.
-JB
-JB
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JB, haven't started it, going to tomorrow when I get done with presentations at school... doing heads, front cover and pan gaskets and a DS door latch.
then going to chase down a wired thing it does when it will go into rear access mode my itslef randomly, i am thinking it is tied into the ds latch...
then going to chase down a wired thing it does when it will go into rear access mode my itslef randomly, i am thinking it is tied into the ds latch...
I hear where you are coming from on RR.net, I have been searching for any useful information on the RR 4.4 and all I can find is "look at my 24" wheel" threads. Fucking mall crawler posers drive me nuts. All bling no bang. I told one dude that he needed a diamond in his front tooth and I almost got banned. Fuck'em!
This guy ,http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=30443, has also done a pretty good job with his rig.
Search 'etcatmeat' old posts, he used to have a p38, and posted here quite a bit with many offroading mods. He's in an RRS now I think.
Lucasd2002 said:
Couldn't have said it better myself.
Stick with Alan's P38. He did a good job on that.
JB is that Anne's truck you're refering to? You doing a full rebuild on that thing? Is it, or she, here now? I still like my RRC because I don't feel like crap if I jack something up. I feel like it was supposed to get screwed up. With a P38 I'd feel like I hirt something that was supposed to be pretty.
RETROV said:
wow I am just the oposite...I want to preserve the classics and toss a frigging match into the P38's
Kyle if you frequent water like the photo in your avitar forget wheeling a P38. Way too many electronics for that type of wheeling. I have a close friend that built a P38 to the gills, 34 inch tires, 5 inch lift, custombumpers, etc, etc. Went wheeling with us in the swamps and got stuck in fairly deep water. Next thing it went crazy, hazards flashing, alarm going off, no starting. 600 dollars later he was running again. Fast forward a few years and he is now in a built RRC. Lesson learned. Ive got a P38 and I love it but no way would I consider building one for the trails down in FL...too wet. Stick with a classic or D1...sure they have too many electrics too, but nothing like a newer rangie. Gordo
i am trying to do a moderate build/resurection to one now. http://www.discoweb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=56929 i am using alan's truck as inspiration. its progressing slower than i would like but its coming along. i have gotten nothing but "your a wanker for castrating your truck" on rrnet. but it does have lots of good electrical, becm, technical specs type info on there. i have not been on it for a few weeks as i have been away from most boards because i have been so busy with work and other obligations lately. but the thread mentioned earlier seems to be ok. there is some good well thought out things in it. http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=30443
David Despain said:
You will always get that on rr.net. It got old fast. My favorite is to do a search on "EAS" and see how many results come up. It became impossible to even search to find a solution to your problem. Converting to coils fixed that.
There are a few knowledgeable people over there, you can find out everything you need to know about building your P38 here. Because in the end, there isn't a lot of different choices for building up a P38. Coils, relocated shocks, possible drive shaft change, RoverRover sliders, diff guard, and front bumper, and you are pretty much there. What else do you need?
skippy3k said:You will always get that on rr.net. It got old fast. My favorite is to do a search on "EAS" and see how many results come up. It became impossible to even search to find a solution to your problem. Converting to coils fixed that.
There are a few knowledgeable people over there, you can find out everything you need to know about building your P38 here. Because in the end, there isn't a lot of different choices for building up a P38. Coils, relocated shocks, possible drive shaft change, RoverRover sliders, diff guard, and front bumper, and you are pretty much there. What else do you need?
Pretty much covers it, but also worth considering
JKS sway bar disconnects
Odyssey 2150 Battery
Extended brake lines
Tom Woods DD drive shafts
Adjustable / lengthened panhard rods , depending on lift
EE spring isolators
Southdown fuel tank, front and rear diff guards and steering guard
Trutracs - carrier is weaker on the earlier models or Trutrac front and ARB rear
Practice left foot braking and locking up the center VC diff
Access panel for the fuel pump, especially if you have the fuel tank guard.
Workshop manual, rave, regular and preventative maintenance, and a good selection of spare parts. (worth mentioning the cam shaft and crankshaft position sensors and the brake light switch)
Definitely be cautious with water crossings, the door seals are good, but the air intake for the engine is just below the headlight, watch the bow wave. The Becm does not even like having the interior carpets enthusiastically valet / steam cleaned.
Remove rear silencer box
http://conalmack.spaces.live.com/
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it has the southdown front skid, axle guard, tank skid and rear diff guard. What access panel for the fuel pump?
what is the rear silence box?
is there a 1-2" bag space lift similiar to the d2's rear air bag lift?
im keeping this out of the water.
Rover Mac, you have any more pictures? that link is dead.
I need to go through it and get the suspension all tightened up and look at the ball joints.
I just did the HG job and so far so good.(not like it is my first, prob my 10th... just first on a RR)
and does a D2 front DS bolt up?
what is the rear silence box?
is there a 1-2" bag space lift similiar to the d2's rear air bag lift?
im keeping this out of the water.
Rover Mac, you have any more pictures? that link is dead.
I need to go through it and get the suspension all tightened up and look at the ball joints.
I just did the HG job and so far so good.(not like it is my first, prob my 10th... just first on a RR)
and does a D2 front DS bolt up?
KyleT said:
If you need to access the fuel pump you have to drop the tank, which is a awkward with the fuel tank guard, cut an access panel in the floor similar to the RR Classic.
Rear silencer, translaton muffler.
Doubt the D2 shaft fits,
Fixed the link