Oil Change Intervals

[MUSKYMAN]

No oil or filter should be ran for 25K miles. Yes I know Amsoil's outrageous claims. Still not a good reason. 15K max for synthetic in a engine that is easy on oil.

well this is really not true

lots of fleets get more then 25 K out of the oil

all they do is change the filters and and refill the filter and top off the level with fresh oil.

the only time they change the whole mess is when the oil tests to be bad.

This saves bundles of money and is better for the environment because people are not wasting oil.

get with the times guys!!

 

[ChristopherP]

If you read the manual (Discovery2) the oil change process stated is as follows. Drain all the oil out of the sump. Do not touch the filter. Refit plug and refill with new oil. I normally add 3 quarts. Remove oil filter, drain oil and replace new filter (I normally half fill the filter). Top up oil 3 more quarts. Drive away. Actually I buy my own oil and filter and drive my local oil change shop and do it myself saves having to dump the old oil. I bung the guys $5 each.

 

[mbrummal]

or they use something like this.


http://www.fs2500.com/

 

[gmookher]

well this is really not true

lots of fleets get more then 25 K out of the oil

all they do is change the filters and and refill the filter and top off the level with fresh oil.

the only time they change the whole mess is when the oil tests to be bad.

This saves bundles of money and is better for the environment because people are not wasting oil.

get with the times guys!!

ok, hold up tho, Thats true in cases of normal use, and hwy use musky, and you should know that. Truck fleets use bypass, you know that too. Each manufacturer specifies what constitutes normal and severe service. Generally, severe service consists of operating the vehicle in a very muddy or dusty areas (because dust particles get through the air filter and contaminate the oil more quickly), operating the vehicle in a very hot areas (heat breaks down oil more quickly), using the vehicle only for short trips in cold weather (the moisture in the oil never gets vaporized), or using the vehicle for towing or when carrying a car-top carrier. If you primarily do freeway driving in moderate weather you do not fall into the severe service category.

Extended service intervals are ONLY recommended for normal use, and while I agree on fleet rigs that never turn off and see hwy only our rovers are way severe service, atleast mine is

Bypass filters have been used on diesel truck engines for years. On cars they are a messy solution to a non-problem. Forget it. its not the right thing for our rover, see it here
http://www.puradyn.com/

I dont know anyone on this forum who would change filters only for 25kmiles, and I dont even think you would, so why mention it..

Changing filter without draining oil on a rover is a mess.

This is advanced filtration and extended life:
http://www.redorbit.com/news/busine...first_year_of_plan_to_outfit_truck/index.html

These are nothing like fleet vehicles.

For me, severe duty like doing the nat'l rally and driving to colorado from seattle well, 5000 miles.

Around town light wheeling, and a k&n filter, 7000 for me easy.

I usually dont let it get past that, but I am certain I could go to 10k and be fine with a 3001 filter

 

[MUSKYMAN]

Gem

quit the cut and paste knowledge

and dont fool yourself the national rally is not severe duty.

try looking at mining equipment or fleets of gravel trucks that drive in and outa quarries all day long.

or taxi cabs that are driven 3 shaifts a day by three different drivers.

fleets are more then just big over the road trucks and total miles is not the only measure of when oil is in need of changing.

 

[MarkP]

When discussing oil change intervals and filtration technologies we need to differentiate between the off-the-shelf $5.00 oil filter

and

the vast array of options that enable extended oil changes.

 

[gmookher]

this is my HD filter man

http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=HP-3001

 

[Dave Legacy]

It's recommended that if your vehicle has been running conventional for its life to NOT switch to synthentic later on. Conv oil can seal up some small leaks. By switching to syn now you run the risk of developing a leak,or rather unplugging a leak.
I also wouldn't recommend 15K between changes. Does anybody actually go that far between changes? For me, oil changes are cheep insurance. I'm sure some very knowledgable people will chime in on this too. A search should turn up quite a bit on oil.

FWIW, I got my truck with minor leaks and started doing oil changes with 10w30 Mobil1 Syn and EVERYTHING started to leak (coincidence?). After about 6mo of losing a qt per every couple hundred miles I switch to 10w40 Mobil 1 High Mileage and I stopped dripping on the driveway.

It was either the oil switch or the 1/8th turn of the oil sump plug that stopped the leak, but I like to think the oil contributed. I've seen a lot of people say that oil should be changed when it's dirty.

 

[gmookher]

its the 1/8 of a turn..

 

[fishEH]

There is something to be said for the high mileage oils too. There are better at sealing up small leaks whereas the sythetics expose them.

 

[jeffro0502]

Thanks guys...this just reminded me, I'm changing my oil tomorrow!

 

[cyoc62]

this is my HD filter man

http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=HP-3001

I didn't see anything about the smallest sized particle that filter will stop...30 microns or something is a good filter. IIRC

I think the K&N is as good as a FRAM from Wally World. Which by the way I've been using for about five years now.

When my DII was in the shop last year, for replacement of an oil pump, I had two mechanics remark on how clean the engine was. At the time I was changing oil at 3k miles. I've switched to 5k mile changes this last time, Sept., because the oil was still fairly clean at 3k.

I drive the shit out of my car, 21k + a year. So for $25, I get five quarts of Rotella 10W-40 and a Fram filter. Don't ask me what size particle it protects againts, I might be embarrased.

I'm not picking on you mook, just saying.

 

[Jupiter Rover]

Which fram filter? The cheap orange can? Those are trash. Only fram worth buying is the synthetic one. But its overpriced.

 

[gmookher]

K&N oil filters are 10 micron...smaller sand particles are about 3x that. Those particles are the enemy, they 'sand down' tolerances..them and metal shavings

a 30 micron filter just takes out larger sand particles, its really not protecting a motor you wanna keep, and are willing to change filters more frequently on.

anyone who thinks its doesnt pay to filter oil better is cutting themselves short

The down side with some smaller 10micron filters are that the smaller particle filters can clog up easy, using the 3001 on a rover eliminates this.

no, your fram is nowhere as good as my k&n

using superior oil and superior filtration gives your motor the best chances its got to stay as good s new as long as possible..

ymmv