i am the proud new owner of a 2004 disco II and ive been looking at the site for awhile now but i was wondering if anyone could give me any suggestions on what the mods would be best to start out with ... also i have heard of people running 265/75/16s on their disco IIs with no rubbing and was wondering if anyone is doing this and how effective it is... I would appreciate any help! Thanks!
New Disco II owner...any suggestions?
- Thread starter tpern8
- Start date
Well, the type of upgrades depends on what you plan to do with it.
Being interested in off-road, here is a list a friend sent me a while back, and I still refer to it at times. IMO, it's a great place to start.
Or, to quote a certain pirate, "More what you'd call guidelines, than actual rules..."
------------------------------
Rover Upgrades
Here is a take on how to trick out your Land Rover from a outfit called
"Excape Expeditions".
(Listed in order. Scale: 5 = being very good, 1 = totally useless)
Recovery Points 5
At some point you are going to get temporarily delayed on a trail (we don't get stuck, do we!). In most cases, the easiest way out is to get a buddy behind you to attach a tow strap and gently pull you back. You will need a block that fits into the tow hitch receiver, with a rated d-shackle attached. DO NOT use a standard trailer receiver hitch with ball. Obtain a high-quality rated product from a company such as Warn or ARB. Ensure any additional shackles are appropriately rated also. For front recovery points, the best route are jate rings that attach directly to the frame. Military spec jate rings are used for lifting a vehicle by helicopter or loading crane, so are very strong. If you go the bumper/bull bar route these rings may not be accessible, so ensure the bumper is of strong construction and has two solid recovery points. The best route here is to purchase two Dixon Bates 3.5 ton tow jaws. Why two? - it spreads the load/stress and helps avoid twisting the chassis in extreme cases. Never use the welded-on/bolted-on loops attached to the frame on the front or rear of your
4X4 car. These are tie-down points only.
CB Radio 5
This is the first piece of equipment anyone participating in an off road trip should invest in. Communicating with other vehicles is absolutely essential.
Auxilliary Fuel 5
Essential for most long distance trips into more remote regions. You may be aware of a gas station ahead, but they may have run out of fuel, or be closed for a family emergency - it happens. If you have a Land Rover Defender 110 then auxilliary fuel tanks can easily be added. For most of us, two to four 20 ltr jerry cans are the best way to. The only type you should be looking at are the genuine steel NATO ones. Forget the screw-top style or plastic (they leak). NATO cans are very tough, and have a very good locking cap that does not leak if the replaceable rubber seal is in good condition. You attach a flexible metal nozzle when
filling the tank. Two or three cans full of fuel are very heavy (20kg per can), and should ideally be stored inside the vehicle, preferably just behind the front seats on the floor. Make sure they are secured well with a strap. If the rubber seal is good, they will not make the inside of the vehicle smell of fuel. Be aware when opening the cans, as pressure builds up inside and can cause fuel to explode out into your face in extreme cases.
Compressor 5
An electric compressor on-board (or manual pump) is essential for re-inflating tyres after driving on soft terrain such as sand, where a wider footprint is essential for traction. If you run at 1 kg, then head back onto a road where 2,5 kg is required, what do you do? There are a variety of portable compressors on the market.
HiLift Jack 4
With chains and shackles, this multi-purpose piece of equipment can be used as a manual winch to pull, or will lift the vehicle out of rutts when hi-centred. To fully benefit from this equipment for jacking, you will need a strong flat point on the front, rear, and even side (sliders) of the vehicle from which to lift without the risk of slipping. A large solid platform (1" pressure-treated plank, 10"x10" or similiar) is needed for soft ground, so the jack doesn't sink! Be warned, if used carelessly this equipment can seriously injure or kill.
Tyres 4
The type of tyre you use depends on the terrain you will be driving - to a degree. Many owners end up with two sets of wheels/tyres eventually. One set
for general use, winter driving etc; and another set for off-road use in areas of mud and rough terrain. There is no one tyre that is best, but by and large BFG Mud-Terrains or All-Terrains seem to be favoured the most. The aggresive treads handle mud exceptionally well, and the reinforced sidewalls are more durable on rough terrain and less prone to damage. A small drawback using these tyres on road is increased road noise and treadwear, and less traction. Be very cautious of putting large tyres on your vehicle. Anything over 31 inches (Discovery/RR/Patrol/Landcruiser) and 33 inches (Landrover 90/110 and older Landcruisers) is totally un-necessary and will contribute to significant bodyroll on-road, alter gearing, and increase the potential to damage axels and drivetrains. They affect torque loading on the transmission, which increases fatigue. The vehicles were designed for specific tyre sizes for a reason, and will be more than capable for everything but suicidle missions, and even then a stock 90 can surprise you!
Lights 4
Auxilliary driving lights are very useful. On challenging trails time just flies by, and before you know it, it's dark and you need to illuminate the trail to avoid veering off course. Don't be too influenced by the vehicles you see with rows of lights on both rack and bumper -- they are not necessary. Infact, too many lights and you need to upgrade that alternator and battery to cope with all the power being sapped. A good powerful (100-120w) pair either on the rack or bumper will suffice. Alternatively (or in addition too), you can upgrade your headlights with equal effect. A rear worklamp is a worthwhile investment too. Hooked up to the reverse lights, it will help you avoid denting your rear panels when reversing on a tight trail in the dark. Also great to illuminate the rear of the vehicle when camping or searching for equipment. Look for IPF or PIAA for front, Hella worklamp for rear. Alternatively, farm equipment stores sell tractor lights for a fraction of the cost of fancy-packaged "SUV/truck" lights.
Differential Guards 4
It's a good idea to protect the lowest hanging part of the underbody, the diffs are the first thing that you usually hit on a rough trail. Be sure to buy heavy-duty galvanized guards. The best kind come from UK companies such as Mantec or Southdown. Of course, slowing down and taking care where you position your vehicle over obstacles is the best remedy!
Skid Plate (Steering Guard) 4
It's the easiest thing to happen upon a hidden rock in mud, and hit the steering/track rods, but a good thick aluminum plate of at least 8mm will help avoid the damage.
GPS Navigation 4
During Excape expeditions in rural areas a GPS (Global Positioning System) is very handsome. However this require that you have maps or other reference
documentation.
Rock Sliders/Side Sills 3
Useful for rocky trails for Discovery, Defender 110, Range Rover, and provide a good point for a hi-lift jack. If you do get them, be sure to get galvanized ones, even if they have been painted or powder-coated. You might face problems to fit heavy-duty sliders on newer Japanees 4X4 cars since these are lacking good mounting points.
Roofrack 3
Looks great on the vehicle - makes it look like a real "safari expedition" vehicle! If you have a short wheelbase vehicle such as a Landrover Defender
90, Nissan Patrol etc. and you plan a long distance trip, then a rack is a great idea, as internal storage space can be used up quickly. For a Discovery or Range Rover, for the type of trips Excape run each year (1-5 weeks), a rack is not absolutely necessary. Both vehicles have plenty of internal storage space, being greatly increased by removing the rear seats. For all vehicle models, the rule is; if you have to store equipment externally, make sure it is light stuff such as clothes and foam mats, sleeping bags etc. The sides of racks make a good home for shovels and aluminium sand ladders. Heavy equipment should be stored inside, as low to the ground and secure as possible, with weight evenly distributed between both axles. The big mistake is storing jerry cans on the roofrack. This can be OK for driving on flat roads, but on rougher trails that are off-camber, you dramatically increase the risk of rolling the vehicle over through
increasing (and often off-centering) your centre of gravity. Racks increase wind noise and decrease fuel efficiency. They are great if you have a rooftop tent or need a camera platform, or a place to mount some lights and attach limb-risers. Bolt-together steel plastic coated racks will rust quickly, and work loose in time. Hi-lift and jerry can mounts appear useful, but beware! Keep total weight to less than 120 kg, the rack might take it but the vehicle windscreen pillars may not.
Locking Differentials 3
This is a topic for a lengthy discussion (for another time) as there are a variey of lockers on the market. Lockers are not essential, and for many types of terrain can get you into even more trouble. They are amazing for situations where the ground is relatively solid and you are cross-axled or for steep climbing on rocky uneven terrain. If used incorrectly you will break a half-shaft. On newer Land Rover Defenders the electronic anti-spin brakes works really good.
Snorkles 2
Unless you plan to do a lot of driving in very sandy/dusty conditions, they are not really essential if you have a petrol engine. Modern vehicles run on
fragile and temperamental computer chips that live under the bonnet/hood. A snorkle may keep water out of the engine air-intake, but the electronics
will still probably get wet and stop the vehicle dead if you wade too deep. They become effective on a V8 when you re-locate the computer to inside the
vehicle (e.g. glovebox), but this requires specialist knowledge, or great expense. Diesels with snorkles can be converted into submarines! One way to
prevent the electronics be drawn in water is to dip the fragile computer box(es) in hot wax that will keep water outside the components.
Brush Bars 2
Again - they look great - but many serve no other purpose than looks alone, and just add extra weight. They provide a useful place to mount a set of spot lights, and attach limb risers to if you have a roofrack. The full wrap around Land Rover bars available from dealerships for Discos and Range Rovers in particular serve very little use and are expensive. If you hit a tree on a trail, more damage can be caused to the vehicle than without one! The A-frame style bar is the better way to go if light-mounting is the reason for consideration. For Defenders, the best type is something like the very strong Camel Trophy Mantec bar that bolts onto the existing bumper. All-in-one bumper/bull bars such as the ARB product are available for all vehicle models, but you will sacrifice approach angle and they are very heavy (require upgraded front suspension). ARB in particular are of very strong construction, mounting directly to the frame. Winch-mounting versions are also worth looking at, but ensure you can easily view/access the winch drum as the cable spools in, otherwise the cable could get damaged or worse. One misconception is that bumper/brush-bars provide a front recovery point. Check carefully that any points are strong enough. ARB, for instance, have two rings that are fine for light recovery using the two combined when pulling at 90 degrees to the bumper. Using just one point, or pulling at an
angle, will bend something or even injure someone.
Winches 2
Electric winches are over-rated as a recovery tool and not completely necessary. They are very heavy, and require that you uprate your front springs. You may also need to uprate your alternator and battery set-up, as they are very power hungry (a typical 3 ton winch draws around 400amps). They can only be used for a minute or so at a time as they overheat easily. Not every kind of terrain provides you with a point in which to easily attach the cable. In most situations there are other means of getting you unstuck. On the otherhand, for light to medium intermittent work they are quick and easy to use, although require attention to safety. Constant heavy duty work requires a hydraulic winch option. Care should be taken with cable maintenance.
Limb Risers 2
Useful if you trail ride through trees and scrub. The taught wire helps deflect branches from scratching you wings and bonnet. No need to pay WAY over the odds for aftermarket kits, they are easy to make after a visit to your local hardware store. Please, be aware that these lines can cause damage to trees and bushes. At all times, respect Excape Code of Conduct - No Trace!
Catalytic Converter Guards 1
Not so necessary, and can cause vehicle fires as dry tinder gets trapped ontop of the plate and is ignited by the very hot cat pipes just above. If you have a stock vehicle and are considering a trip, the bottom line is buy a CB radio, a couple of jerry cans, and have a rear recovery point on your truck.
Enjoy.
------------------------------------
Being interested in off-road, here is a list a friend sent me a while back, and I still refer to it at times. IMO, it's a great place to start.
Or, to quote a certain pirate, "More what you'd call guidelines, than actual rules..."
------------------------------
Rover Upgrades
Here is a take on how to trick out your Land Rover from a outfit called
"Excape Expeditions".
(Listed in order. Scale: 5 = being very good, 1 = totally useless)
Recovery Points 5
At some point you are going to get temporarily delayed on a trail (we don't get stuck, do we!). In most cases, the easiest way out is to get a buddy behind you to attach a tow strap and gently pull you back. You will need a block that fits into the tow hitch receiver, with a rated d-shackle attached. DO NOT use a standard trailer receiver hitch with ball. Obtain a high-quality rated product from a company such as Warn or ARB. Ensure any additional shackles are appropriately rated also. For front recovery points, the best route are jate rings that attach directly to the frame. Military spec jate rings are used for lifting a vehicle by helicopter or loading crane, so are very strong. If you go the bumper/bull bar route these rings may not be accessible, so ensure the bumper is of strong construction and has two solid recovery points. The best route here is to purchase two Dixon Bates 3.5 ton tow jaws. Why two? - it spreads the load/stress and helps avoid twisting the chassis in extreme cases. Never use the welded-on/bolted-on loops attached to the frame on the front or rear of your
4X4 car. These are tie-down points only.
CB Radio 5
This is the first piece of equipment anyone participating in an off road trip should invest in. Communicating with other vehicles is absolutely essential.
Auxilliary Fuel 5
Essential for most long distance trips into more remote regions. You may be aware of a gas station ahead, but they may have run out of fuel, or be closed for a family emergency - it happens. If you have a Land Rover Defender 110 then auxilliary fuel tanks can easily be added. For most of us, two to four 20 ltr jerry cans are the best way to. The only type you should be looking at are the genuine steel NATO ones. Forget the screw-top style or plastic (they leak). NATO cans are very tough, and have a very good locking cap that does not leak if the replaceable rubber seal is in good condition. You attach a flexible metal nozzle when
filling the tank. Two or three cans full of fuel are very heavy (20kg per can), and should ideally be stored inside the vehicle, preferably just behind the front seats on the floor. Make sure they are secured well with a strap. If the rubber seal is good, they will not make the inside of the vehicle smell of fuel. Be aware when opening the cans, as pressure builds up inside and can cause fuel to explode out into your face in extreme cases.
Compressor 5
An electric compressor on-board (or manual pump) is essential for re-inflating tyres after driving on soft terrain such as sand, where a wider footprint is essential for traction. If you run at 1 kg, then head back onto a road where 2,5 kg is required, what do you do? There are a variety of portable compressors on the market.
HiLift Jack 4
With chains and shackles, this multi-purpose piece of equipment can be used as a manual winch to pull, or will lift the vehicle out of rutts when hi-centred. To fully benefit from this equipment for jacking, you will need a strong flat point on the front, rear, and even side (sliders) of the vehicle from which to lift without the risk of slipping. A large solid platform (1" pressure-treated plank, 10"x10" or similiar) is needed for soft ground, so the jack doesn't sink! Be warned, if used carelessly this equipment can seriously injure or kill.
Tyres 4
The type of tyre you use depends on the terrain you will be driving - to a degree. Many owners end up with two sets of wheels/tyres eventually. One set
for general use, winter driving etc; and another set for off-road use in areas of mud and rough terrain. There is no one tyre that is best, but by and large BFG Mud-Terrains or All-Terrains seem to be favoured the most. The aggresive treads handle mud exceptionally well, and the reinforced sidewalls are more durable on rough terrain and less prone to damage. A small drawback using these tyres on road is increased road noise and treadwear, and less traction. Be very cautious of putting large tyres on your vehicle. Anything over 31 inches (Discovery/RR/Patrol/Landcruiser) and 33 inches (Landrover 90/110 and older Landcruisers) is totally un-necessary and will contribute to significant bodyroll on-road, alter gearing, and increase the potential to damage axels and drivetrains. They affect torque loading on the transmission, which increases fatigue. The vehicles were designed for specific tyre sizes for a reason, and will be more than capable for everything but suicidle missions, and even then a stock 90 can surprise you!
Lights 4
Auxilliary driving lights are very useful. On challenging trails time just flies by, and before you know it, it's dark and you need to illuminate the trail to avoid veering off course. Don't be too influenced by the vehicles you see with rows of lights on both rack and bumper -- they are not necessary. Infact, too many lights and you need to upgrade that alternator and battery to cope with all the power being sapped. A good powerful (100-120w) pair either on the rack or bumper will suffice. Alternatively (or in addition too), you can upgrade your headlights with equal effect. A rear worklamp is a worthwhile investment too. Hooked up to the reverse lights, it will help you avoid denting your rear panels when reversing on a tight trail in the dark. Also great to illuminate the rear of the vehicle when camping or searching for equipment. Look for IPF or PIAA for front, Hella worklamp for rear. Alternatively, farm equipment stores sell tractor lights for a fraction of the cost of fancy-packaged "SUV/truck" lights.
Differential Guards 4
It's a good idea to protect the lowest hanging part of the underbody, the diffs are the first thing that you usually hit on a rough trail. Be sure to buy heavy-duty galvanized guards. The best kind come from UK companies such as Mantec or Southdown. Of course, slowing down and taking care where you position your vehicle over obstacles is the best remedy!
Skid Plate (Steering Guard) 4
It's the easiest thing to happen upon a hidden rock in mud, and hit the steering/track rods, but a good thick aluminum plate of at least 8mm will help avoid the damage.
GPS Navigation 4
During Excape expeditions in rural areas a GPS (Global Positioning System) is very handsome. However this require that you have maps or other reference
documentation.
Rock Sliders/Side Sills 3
Useful for rocky trails for Discovery, Defender 110, Range Rover, and provide a good point for a hi-lift jack. If you do get them, be sure to get galvanized ones, even if they have been painted or powder-coated. You might face problems to fit heavy-duty sliders on newer Japanees 4X4 cars since these are lacking good mounting points.
Roofrack 3
Looks great on the vehicle - makes it look like a real "safari expedition" vehicle! If you have a short wheelbase vehicle such as a Landrover Defender
90, Nissan Patrol etc. and you plan a long distance trip, then a rack is a great idea, as internal storage space can be used up quickly. For a Discovery or Range Rover, for the type of trips Excape run each year (1-5 weeks), a rack is not absolutely necessary. Both vehicles have plenty of internal storage space, being greatly increased by removing the rear seats. For all vehicle models, the rule is; if you have to store equipment externally, make sure it is light stuff such as clothes and foam mats, sleeping bags etc. The sides of racks make a good home for shovels and aluminium sand ladders. Heavy equipment should be stored inside, as low to the ground and secure as possible, with weight evenly distributed between both axles. The big mistake is storing jerry cans on the roofrack. This can be OK for driving on flat roads, but on rougher trails that are off-camber, you dramatically increase the risk of rolling the vehicle over through
increasing (and often off-centering) your centre of gravity. Racks increase wind noise and decrease fuel efficiency. They are great if you have a rooftop tent or need a camera platform, or a place to mount some lights and attach limb-risers. Bolt-together steel plastic coated racks will rust quickly, and work loose in time. Hi-lift and jerry can mounts appear useful, but beware! Keep total weight to less than 120 kg, the rack might take it but the vehicle windscreen pillars may not.
Locking Differentials 3
This is a topic for a lengthy discussion (for another time) as there are a variey of lockers on the market. Lockers are not essential, and for many types of terrain can get you into even more trouble. They are amazing for situations where the ground is relatively solid and you are cross-axled or for steep climbing on rocky uneven terrain. If used incorrectly you will break a half-shaft. On newer Land Rover Defenders the electronic anti-spin brakes works really good.
Snorkles 2
Unless you plan to do a lot of driving in very sandy/dusty conditions, they are not really essential if you have a petrol engine. Modern vehicles run on
fragile and temperamental computer chips that live under the bonnet/hood. A snorkle may keep water out of the engine air-intake, but the electronics
will still probably get wet and stop the vehicle dead if you wade too deep. They become effective on a V8 when you re-locate the computer to inside the
vehicle (e.g. glovebox), but this requires specialist knowledge, or great expense. Diesels with snorkles can be converted into submarines! One way to
prevent the electronics be drawn in water is to dip the fragile computer box(es) in hot wax that will keep water outside the components.
Brush Bars 2
Again - they look great - but many serve no other purpose than looks alone, and just add extra weight. They provide a useful place to mount a set of spot lights, and attach limb risers to if you have a roofrack. The full wrap around Land Rover bars available from dealerships for Discos and Range Rovers in particular serve very little use and are expensive. If you hit a tree on a trail, more damage can be caused to the vehicle than without one! The A-frame style bar is the better way to go if light-mounting is the reason for consideration. For Defenders, the best type is something like the very strong Camel Trophy Mantec bar that bolts onto the existing bumper. All-in-one bumper/bull bars such as the ARB product are available for all vehicle models, but you will sacrifice approach angle and they are very heavy (require upgraded front suspension). ARB in particular are of very strong construction, mounting directly to the frame. Winch-mounting versions are also worth looking at, but ensure you can easily view/access the winch drum as the cable spools in, otherwise the cable could get damaged or worse. One misconception is that bumper/brush-bars provide a front recovery point. Check carefully that any points are strong enough. ARB, for instance, have two rings that are fine for light recovery using the two combined when pulling at 90 degrees to the bumper. Using just one point, or pulling at an
angle, will bend something or even injure someone.
Winches 2
Electric winches are over-rated as a recovery tool and not completely necessary. They are very heavy, and require that you uprate your front springs. You may also need to uprate your alternator and battery set-up, as they are very power hungry (a typical 3 ton winch draws around 400amps). They can only be used for a minute or so at a time as they overheat easily. Not every kind of terrain provides you with a point in which to easily attach the cable. In most situations there are other means of getting you unstuck. On the otherhand, for light to medium intermittent work they are quick and easy to use, although require attention to safety. Constant heavy duty work requires a hydraulic winch option. Care should be taken with cable maintenance.
Limb Risers 2
Useful if you trail ride through trees and scrub. The taught wire helps deflect branches from scratching you wings and bonnet. No need to pay WAY over the odds for aftermarket kits, they are easy to make after a visit to your local hardware store. Please, be aware that these lines can cause damage to trees and bushes. At all times, respect Excape Code of Conduct - No Trace!
Catalytic Converter Guards 1
Not so necessary, and can cause vehicle fires as dry tinder gets trapped ontop of the plate and is ignited by the very hot cat pipes just above. If you have a stock vehicle and are considering a trip, the bottom line is buy a CB radio, a couple of jerry cans, and have a rear recovery point on your truck.
Enjoy.
------------------------------------
Last edited:
I also own an '04 DII and mostly wheel on rocky Sierra (CA) trails. IMO, the first thing you should do is wheel it stock. Unless you are experienced off-road in other capable 4x4 vehicles you will probably be pretty impressed with how capable your stock truck is. That said, after a few outings in my stock DII I had a good idea of things that I wanted to change/improve/modify. Here is my partial list in the order I made my changes:
Roof Rack- I have 2 kids and a wife. Enough said. . .
Recovery Gear- If you go off-road you will get stuck. Lacking a winch, I purchased a HiLift and all gear needed to hand-winch. Additionally, straps, shackles, rear recovery point, shovel, gloves, etc. Unfortunatly, there is no good solution for a front recovery point on DIIs without a winch bumper or hacking up you stock bumper. Get appropriate storage for these items as you don't want them bouncing around in your truck. Don't forget the first aid kit.
Protection- front and rear diff protection is a must if you are on rocky trails. Especially with stock ride-height. Without protection I felt I had to go painfully slow on any trail where there was a risk of dragging parts and I still drug a bunch.
GPS- I don't like to get lost.
Front winch bumper- I have a TJM but there are a few good choices out there. This gives you a front recovery point and potential for a winch.
OME Suspension- This is needed to 1) handle the weight of the front bumper/winch 2) gives you clearance for larger tires so you aren't dragging parts everywhere 3) improves the ride dramatically (IMO).
Tires- I would have done tires earlier but I knew I was going to lift the truck so I did this at the same time as the above suspension change. Better tires improve your off-road ability significantly. I also went to a 265/75 in order to gain some clearance.
OBA- This gives you the ability to refill your tires after you have aired down.
Rock Sliders- If you venture onto more diffcult trails will bash your door sills without some form of protection.
Winch- As said above. . . if you go off-road enough you will get stuck. I got a synthetic winch cable for peace of mind.
Other misc stuff- It's amazing how quickly the list grows. In the 9 months I have had my DII I have amassed a bunch of misc. gear that I seem to pack with me. Things like, spare air filters, tire repair kit, emergency overnight gear, jumper cables, fire extinguisher, aux. lighting, tools, storage containers, tie down straps, ect. . . .
Anyways, that's what I have done so far and I am close to the end of my list (for now). The next item that needs addressing is my rear bumper/quarter panel protection. Both quarter panels have taken a beating as well as my bumper.
Lance
Roof Rack- I have 2 kids and a wife. Enough said. . .
Recovery Gear- If you go off-road you will get stuck. Lacking a winch, I purchased a HiLift and all gear needed to hand-winch. Additionally, straps, shackles, rear recovery point, shovel, gloves, etc. Unfortunatly, there is no good solution for a front recovery point on DIIs without a winch bumper or hacking up you stock bumper. Get appropriate storage for these items as you don't want them bouncing around in your truck. Don't forget the first aid kit.
Protection- front and rear diff protection is a must if you are on rocky trails. Especially with stock ride-height. Without protection I felt I had to go painfully slow on any trail where there was a risk of dragging parts and I still drug a bunch.
GPS- I don't like to get lost.
Front winch bumper- I have a TJM but there are a few good choices out there. This gives you a front recovery point and potential for a winch.
OME Suspension- This is needed to 1) handle the weight of the front bumper/winch 2) gives you clearance for larger tires so you aren't dragging parts everywhere 3) improves the ride dramatically (IMO).
Tires- I would have done tires earlier but I knew I was going to lift the truck so I did this at the same time as the above suspension change. Better tires improve your off-road ability significantly. I also went to a 265/75 in order to gain some clearance.
OBA- This gives you the ability to refill your tires after you have aired down.
Rock Sliders- If you venture onto more diffcult trails will bash your door sills without some form of protection.
Winch- As said above. . . if you go off-road enough you will get stuck. I got a synthetic winch cable for peace of mind.
Other misc stuff- It's amazing how quickly the list grows. In the 9 months I have had my DII I have amassed a bunch of misc. gear that I seem to pack with me. Things like, spare air filters, tire repair kit, emergency overnight gear, jumper cables, fire extinguisher, aux. lighting, tools, storage containers, tie down straps, ect. . . .
Anyways, that's what I have done so far and I am close to the end of my list (for now). The next item that needs addressing is my rear bumper/quarter panel protection. Both quarter panels have taken a beating as well as my bumper.
Lance
tpern8 said:
Before putting on my lift I was running 265/75 BFG ATs (2000 D2). Other then a little better grip and a much cooler look they only raised my truck about a 1/2". You don't get much rub, I did in hard turns with minor articulation, but nothing that did any damage. I would suggest updrading tires but if you do go larger you will want to lift things up a little, but be careful, buying tires is a slippery slope. First it's tires, then lift, the next thing you know your wife is making you sleep outside in it.
S
Silent Z
Guest
"mod" your garage floor with a piece of cardboard that runs from the tail of the transmission to the front bumper.
C
cmondieyoung
Guest
I haven't heard of hot wax, but I do know that people are crazy for getting snorkels without first waterproofing their ECU.
I've seen trucks with plastic/rubber seals that run around the ECU and under the hood bonnet, creating a small waterproof area. Sorry I can't be more specific, but I do know it's been done.
I've seen trucks with plastic/rubber seals that run around the ECU and under the hood bonnet, creating a small waterproof area. Sorry I can't be more specific, but I do know it's been done.
The ECU is just like any other CPU. Dip it in wax, and you run the risk of it overheating. It will probably melt the wax before then though. I personally am in the process of moving all my electrics into the vehicle, fusebox, coils, batteries, and all the bits of harness that don't need to be in the engine bay. My plan is to enclose such bits in a sealed container vented by a 12 volt fan similar to those used by aftermarket stereo enthusiasts. But then again, my favorite part of wheeling is the water.
The only advise I can give is to get a tow strap, and a shackle for your hitch reciever, and hit some trails with a buddy. Just make sure he is somewhat experienced, and you should be allright.
I also like to suggest Old Man Emu suspension to people, as, in my opinion, it makes a Disco more predictable on the road.
Cheers,
Kennith
The only advise I can give is to get a tow strap, and a shackle for your hitch reciever, and hit some trails with a buddy. Just make sure he is somewhat experienced, and you should be allright.
I also like to suggest Old Man Emu suspension to people, as, in my opinion, it makes a Disco more predictable on the road.
Cheers,
Kennith
S
Snwbord24
Guest
Did your 2004 come with 16" or 18" rims? There aren't alot of tire options for the 18" and they're more expensive. Hopefully you got the 16's, but if not I would get rid of the 18's for some 16's. Makes tire choices better and less expensive.
I am with Discokayaker: go out and have some fun on the trails before dropping a ton of money on mods. Depending on the type of trails you go on and the frequency you go out will help you determine what you need first. That being said, recovery points, recovery points, recovery points (and recovery gear such as tow straps, shackles, etc)
D2 engine ecu is in the kick panel, it won't get wet there unless you really mess up. But the transmission ecu is under the driver's seat, you can put that in a plastic container and silicone it shut.
Question related to the subject...
when going through water, sometimes my accelerator stops having power, and then the truck stalls out.. then i can restart it again w/o a problem.. its a 2001 D2.. what could this be? a few people [jeepers] suggested that it was either my distributor getting wet, or my mass air flow sensor.
when going through water, sometimes my accelerator stops having power, and then the truck stalls out.. then i can restart it again w/o a problem.. its a 2001 D2.. what could this be? a few people [jeepers] suggested that it was either my distributor getting wet, or my mass air flow sensor.
Foolish porn-related humor aside, I have to agree with stansell and discokayaker here. All the kit I thought I'd planned to buy when I first replaced my Tacoma with my DII is now on hold. So far, recovery points and gear and dif guards (on the way)are all I've added to this point. Dif guards are key. Even if you get enough lift to fit 31s, the pumpkin is still only 1" higher than when you started.
As a bonus, nobody at LR will pinch off your waranty for bolting on a set of JATE rings and a Curt, and fitting some goodies from Southdown.
As a bonus, nobody at LR will pinch off your waranty for bolting on a set of JATE rings and a Curt, and fitting some goodies from Southdown.
cmondieyoung said:
Many people are just oblivious when it comes to waterproofing the rest of the truck. TV show like "Trucks" on Spike TV don't help out either. I was watching an episode where they were installing a snorkel on a jeep. They talked about how it would enable you to travers deep water, etc..., but they never mentioned one thing about waterproofing the rest of the truck. Giving many people the idea that that's all you need.
Not sure if anyone has covered this or not, but, HD front prop shaft with grease fittings would be a good investment. If you start hearing chirping sounds from underneath stop driving your Disco, and in a safe flat area. Chock your wheels, place your transmission in neutral, make sure said Disco will not move, climb under and rotate front prop shaft. If turning is smooth start saving or go ahead and purchase one. If it is not I would not drive until it is replaced unless you feel like replacing the transmission also. Keep a check on all fluids, and have fun!
Out of curiosity I checked the o.p.'s stats. They haven't visited since October of 2010, which I suspect is the same season they sold/scrapped the truck.
But, as we like to say, Dweb never forgets.