My Truck is still stalling!!!
- Thread starter lforgue8
- Start date
tom,
what application (model) should i look for for those nissan o2's?
sven,
if i disconnect the o2's and try to start it...or... run it and then disconnect them?
even if the o2's are incorrect should a fault be stored? then even if it stalls shouldnt i beable to restart it?
just thinking out loud here guys!:banghead:
also i talk to someone else today and he suggested that the air gap is too tight on the pick-up.....whe i replaced the pick-up i set it at .20mm should i try .35mm....what has anybody else set the air gap too?
what application (model) should i look for for those nissan o2's?
sven,
if i disconnect the o2's and try to start it...or... run it and then disconnect them?
even if the o2's are incorrect should a fault be stored? then even if it stalls shouldnt i beable to restart it?
just thinking out loud here guys!:banghead:
also i talk to someone else today and he suggested that the air gap is too tight on the pick-up.....whe i replaced the pick-up i set it at .20mm should i try .35mm....what has anybody else set the air gap too?
I guess disconnect then start.
For air gap, I set it to whatever the book says. You're supposed to use a brass feeler gauge too.
For air gap, I set it to whatever the book says. You're supposed to use a brass feeler gauge too.
ok so last night i reset the air gap to .30mm and installed a new coil and the truck started right up.........ran good for about 20 min....drove it for about 10 min and then idled for about 10 more min......then just shut off.......i was abkle to restart it and then ran again for about 20min without stalling.........
new to date are:
coil
ign mod (gm)...should i just bite the bullet and go back to LR?
lrg heat sink
coolant temp sensor
new wiring to coil
pick-up in dizzy
new vac housing on dizzy
new cap and rotor.....i am still getting large burn marks inside cap? WTF
o2's are less than a year old
fuel pump and wiring to that
i am at wits end with this thing and dont knwo what to do now......should i just buy a new engine harness because when ever i swap something out the problem persists in the same conditions.
help
new to date are:
coil
ign mod (gm)...should i just bite the bullet and go back to LR?
lrg heat sink
coolant temp sensor
new wiring to coil
pick-up in dizzy
new vac housing on dizzy
new cap and rotor.....i am still getting large burn marks inside cap? WTF
o2's are less than a year old
fuel pump and wiring to that
i am at wits end with this thing and dont knwo what to do now......should i just buy a new engine harness because when ever i swap something out the problem persists in the same conditions.
help
Go back and re-examine what your "givens" are in your trouble shooting. You have replaced a lot of major cuases so the answer must be in the things you are assuming are OK. Just my advice FWIW.
Luc
If it was my truck, I would get rid of the GM amp and put a Lucas amp back on. This will probably end the dist cap arcing as well. I am not an electrical engineer, but the Lucas amp, coil and dist cap are correctly matched to each other. I see no point in experimenting with just one of these parts. That does not mean that I am against changing the entire stock system to an after market ignition system.
Next time it shuts down you can test if ignition has shut down by using a timing light while someone cranks the engine with the starter for just a few seconds. If the amp has shut off, then there will be no flashing of the timing light while the engine is turning.
Also you may consider getting a fuel pressure gauge like this:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM-800199&N=700+115&autoview=sku
You could T it into the fuel line right after the fuel filter and leave it there. A quick glance at the gage there will tell you if the fuel system is is up to pressure.
It is difficult for me to image the TPS or the idle control shutting your engine off. That is why I am trying to divert you to the amp and the simple fuel pressure diagnostic.
Randall
If it was my truck, I would get rid of the GM amp and put a Lucas amp back on. This will probably end the dist cap arcing as well. I am not an electrical engineer, but the Lucas amp, coil and dist cap are correctly matched to each other. I see no point in experimenting with just one of these parts. That does not mean that I am against changing the entire stock system to an after market ignition system.
Next time it shuts down you can test if ignition has shut down by using a timing light while someone cranks the engine with the starter for just a few seconds. If the amp has shut off, then there will be no flashing of the timing light while the engine is turning.
Also you may consider getting a fuel pressure gauge like this:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM-800199&N=700+115&autoview=sku
You could T it into the fuel line right after the fuel filter and leave it there. A quick glance at the gage there will tell you if the fuel system is is up to pressure.
It is difficult for me to image the TPS or the idle control shutting your engine off. That is why I am trying to divert you to the amp and the simple fuel pressure diagnostic.
Randall
You can eliminate the spark and fuel delivery marginality by putting the truck in 1st gear and seeing if you can get it to 4000 RPM and hold it. If it spits and sputters it is one of the above. If it runs smooth then start looking into electronic components that influence ignition.
My girl friend's '91 had a bad key switch. If you wiggled the key if would stall. Took apart and found some bent mechanicals. I made it all fit back together to reduce play and now you can wiggle the key without stalling. I then had to give the lecture about you don't need every flipping key you have in your possession hanging there. "There should only be one key on that ring."
By the way her stalling issue was multi facetted; including a tired fuel pump, NAPA coil, and intermittent ignition switch. Joy. All good now, just a couple frustrating weeks.
My girl friend's '91 had a bad key switch. If you wiggled the key if would stall. Took apart and found some bent mechanicals. I made it all fit back together to reduce play and now you can wiggle the key without stalling. I then had to give the lecture about you don't need every flipping key you have in your possession hanging there. "There should only be one key on that ring."
By the way her stalling issue was multi facetted; including a tired fuel pump, NAPA coil, and intermittent ignition switch. Joy. All good now, just a couple frustrating weeks.
update:
Sat i wanted to swap over the coil power wire and crank signal wires back to the original and see if it would still start and found that it wouldnt so i had a fault with some of the wiring as well so im NOW pretty sure this is fixed! Went out wheelin yesterday and didnt shut it off for 5 full hrs and not one stumble or stall.........
Sat i wanted to swap over the coil power wire and crank signal wires back to the original and see if it would still start and found that it wouldnt so i had a fault with some of the wiring as well so im NOW pretty sure this is fixed! Went out wheelin yesterday and didnt shut it off for 5 full hrs and not one stumble or stall.........