Jetta TDI

Roving Beetle said:
No - no, this is different. I fully understand a title means almost nothing on a grey market or conversion truck. A rep from the State actually comes and verifies the source of the parts (need receipts) verifies the "apparent year/model" of the vehicle and then issues a completely new VIN number and title. The same as building a true kit car/street rod. Not a half-ass old Series VIN bulkhead on a new chassis type thing. :patriot:

I have a client with a brand new Series III.

Built from either new or NOS parts. The DVLA wouldn't issue a new V-5 for it because it didn't have ABS or airbags. Huddersfield bought a '72 or '73 Series, destroyed that ruck, swapped the VIN plates, had it inspected by the DVLA and had the new V-5 issued.

Sometimes there are other reasons for not trying to obtain new VINs.
 

Roving Beetle

Well-known member
True PT - it can be a pain in the ass for sure. I have done it a couple times (once in '02 with a "rebuilt" 2000 Heep Wrangler) and it's a bit of bugger. I do suppose where I am using a legit bulkhead, fenders, old style windscreen/top etc maybe it really could just be a 1974 truck for all anyone cares. Maine typically goes by chassis to determine the year of a vehicle but there have been recent changes to that ruling as well. We'll see.

Cheers,
Doug
 
Roving Beetle said:
True PT - it can be a pain in the ass for sure. I have done it a couple times (once in '02 with a "rebuilt" 2000 Heep Wrangler) and it's a bit of bugger. I do suppose where I am using a legit bulkhead, fenders, old style windscreen/top etc maybe it really could just be a 1974 truck for all anyone cares. Maine typically goes by chassis to determine the year of a vehicle but there have been recent changes to that ruling as well. We'll see.

Cheers,
Doug

I'm using a '97 DI chassis for mine, complete with Salvage title-LOL.

The truck was an arson victim that I bought from a guy advertising it on Dweb. The bulkhead came from a truck I got from Ike, complete with hand-written bill of sale.

Legal-yes. Kosher? Beats me. Ship of Perseus? Damn straight Skippy!
 

teledan

Well-known member
May 7, 2010
325
4
Utah
Roving Beetle said:
And to answer the question on the 1.9l TDI in a D90 - yes I am planning on it. Over 200 HP and 320 TQ reliably and a nice long power band with a VNT turbo = plenty of power for a D90 and excellent economy. Should be very smooth and powerful for what i want.

Doug

Thats great! I would be very interested to see that come together.
 

knewsom

Well-known member
Jul 10, 2008
5,262
0
La Mancha, CA
jhmover said:
Too bad I can't get away with that in California - that would be the shit I bet.

I believe 96 and earlier Diesels in CA don't need to be smogged... couldn't you drop one in a 96 or earlier truck then?
 

LR Max

Well-known member
May 1, 2004
1,190
7
Hotlanta, GA
Get the newest you can with the 1.9 engine and a manual trans.

Do research on "coolant creep". That will kill your car INSTANTLY.

Mainly troll auto trader and dealerships for diesels. Everyone else SWEARS TO GOD their god damn TDi is worth its weight in gold. Dealerships will sell you one for reasonable, private owners won't.

Everyone I know with a diesel golf loves it. If you can get away with a 2 door golf (don't need 4 door nor load capacity) then engage. Jettas are cool too, but the golfs just feel zippy.

At 100k, the intake manifold and EGR valve need to be cleaned. You'll only blow like, $50 in gaskets but it is a BITCH to do. I mean, get a case of beer and settle in for the weekend. After that it will run as good as new.

Put only BP diesel in em. BP diesel = happy. Truck stop diesel = sad (according the intarwebs).

Do research on oil. Those engines only like certain types.
 

Roving Beetle

Well-known member
LR Max hit the nail on the head!

HAVE to use a diesel rated Xw-40 weight oil and keep it changed regularly.

The intake is not that hard to do actually, like he said just takes time and it will AMAZE you how clogged they can get. There is a setting on the ECU that can be changed to help hugely with the problem so the EGR runs a different cycle and will still be legal and all.

If you "chip" the car with a tune from Malone tuning or other reputable tuners they can do the EGR remap and a boosted tune retaining all stock parts and you'll get MPG and a nice boost in performance that is still conservative and "safe".

FUN cars, highly recommend. :)
 

jhmover

Well-known member
Apr 23, 2004
5,571
3
California
knewsom said:
I believe 96 and earlier Diesels in CA don't need to be smogged... couldn't you drop one in a 96 or earlier truck then?

Problem is my 96 is registered as a gas vehicle. Only way I know of is have a 75 or earlier vehicle then they don't smog. I'm still pissed at Schwarzenegger. It used to be 30 years then he cut it off, which screwed my plans for my 77 Scout.
 

cbass

Well-known member
Aug 23, 2004
218
0
42
Salt Lake City, Utah
Just checked this out as my brother (teledan) mentioned this thread.

I have a 2003 TDI Jetta with 200k on the clock and it still runs amazing. Always put high quality, full synthetic oil in it that matches the recommended specifications and you won't have any problems in that regard. I perform an oil analysis on every oil change just because I'm geeky like that and there's no problem running it 15k+ miles per oil change with the right oil.

Just a clarification on the auto vs manual debate though... it sounds like people are mentioning two very different cars on this thread 1) 1999.5-2003 Jetta TDI and 2) 2005.5-present Jetta TDI (more comparable to the Audi A3). These are two very different beasts with different body styles (the '10-present has yet another body style). As was said, there are automatics that I would never buy in a VW TDI. In the various forums online they refer to these as "slushboxes" because they are your standard planetary gearset, ton-of-hydraulic-fluid automatic transmission that seem to fall apart after about 150k miles. Not to mention, because of the inefficiencies of planetary gears with so much fluid "sloshing" around inside, they get noticeably worse gas mileage than a transmission with a proper clutch.

HOWEVER, VW (and Audi) make other amazing automatics that are called DSG transmissions (stands for Direct Shift Gearbox) and those are amazing technological pieces of work. Porsche and Audi have been racing DSG transmissions in their rally and street cars for decades and it's finally trickled down to the VW and Audi passenger cars. Basically a DSG is a transmission with two clutches and the ability to have two gears selected at once (almost like two transmissions working in tandem). For example, you start off in 1st gear with the clutch engaged, (we'll call this clutch #1) while the other half of the transmission is already in 2nd gear with clutch #2 disengaged. As soon as you hit the proper RPM's (and throttle position, etc.), clutch #1 disengages and clutch #2 engages at the same time so you get an immediate shift from 1st to 2nd gear. Then the transmission puts the first half into 3rd gear in anticipation for the next gear change from 2 to 3 and the process continues. They're amazing to drive and feel oh-so-good with the solid, lightning quick shifts. Because they are essentially a computer controlled manual transmission, they get as good (or better) gas mileage than you could get with even a regular manual transmission (short of hyper-miling techniques). If the car you're looking at is a 2005.5 or newer and it has an automatic, don't let that deter you UNTIL you determine if it's a DSG transmission or a slushbox. Some DSG's (the older ones with wet clutches instead of dry) do need a somewhat technical fluid change roughly every 40k miles.

Bottom line:
Older than 2005.5, don't buy an automatic
Newer than 2005.5, buy only the DSG automatic or a manual

With all of the TDI's, take special care that the timing belt has been done within the specified interval (generally 60,000mi unless someone has used one of the more recent 100,000 mile kits) and has been done properly. If anyone has done a "mark and pray" method of timing belt change on these TDI's, they're very likely to have a piston hit a valve at some point. It's not hard to do it right, but it does take special tools.

All that said, my next car will be a 2010 or newer Jetta TDI Sportwagen with that DSG transmission in it :) If only VW would offer the AWD version on this side of the pond...

BTW, here's a great diagram of the DSG automatics: http://cars.about.com/od/thingsyoun...ronic-transmiss/VW-Audi-DSG-diagram-large.htm
 
Last edited:

cbass

Well-known member
Aug 23, 2004
218
0
42
Salt Lake City, Utah
Roving Beetle said:
LR Max hit the nail on the head!

HAVE to use a diesel rated Xw-40 weight oil and keep it changed regularly.

The intake is not that hard to do actually, like he said just takes time and it will AMAZE you how clogged they can get. There is a setting on the ECU that can be changed to help hugely with the problem so the EGR runs a different cycle and will still be legal and all.

If you "chip" the car with a tune from Malone tuning or other reputable tuners they can do the EGR remap and a boosted tune retaining all stock parts and you'll get MPG and a nice boost in performance that is still conservative and "safe".

FUN cars, highly recommend. :)

Just a clarification on the EGR adjustment... the ECU setting basically turns the EGR off (puts it on an extremely low setting) and is actually illegal in certain states. Depending where you live, if you want to turn off the EGR, you may have to turn it back on to pass inspection. If you have a vag-com (www.ross-tech.com) you can make this adjustment via computer and OBDII connection in just a couple of keystrokes to turn it on and off as you please.

I echo that last sentence "FUN cars, highly recommended!"
 

thequickervicar

Well-known member
Aug 12, 2010
241
0
Lancaster, PA
I'd try to find an A3 Jetta for the best mileage/reliability combo. Still have to look out for EGR slug in the intake.

A4s will be a nicer driving car, IME. However, they have FAR more potential issues to deal with. VNT clogging, coolant creep, etc. However, they are a beautiful car to drive. Put some GTI/GLI suspension on there & it will surprise you just how quickly you can get from point A to point B, whilst getting 50mpg.

Go with a Rocketchip (or other chip), KermaTDI injector nozzles, and better suspension & you'll have a car with great mileage & unbelievable torque. My Passat would light up its snow tires rolling into the fuel in 1st :).
 

leeawalden

Well-known member
Feb 21, 2005
2,401
1
Atlanta, GA
wheelen disco said:
My friend drives a tdi cup, its a blast to drive


saw one of these on the lot yesterday...I mean, they look cool and all, but the price tag was wayyy overpriced.

singingcamel said:
Somebody pencil out the price of diesel vs the price of gas in these Jettas and tell Me if its worth buying a Diesel.

I just pulled this off the net, for the 2009 Jetta (it is a government site) :patriot: :

http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/noframes/25259.shtml <---Gas

http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/noframes/25262.shtml <---Diesel

basically, if you get them at the same price or plan on putting a bunch of miles on it the diesel is worth it.
 

leeawalden

Well-known member
Feb 21, 2005
2,401
1
Atlanta, GA
cbass said:
Just checked this out as my brother (teledan) mentioned this thread.

I have a 2003 TDI Jetta with 200k on the clock and it still runs amazing. Always put high quality, full synthetic oil in it that matches the recommended specifications and you won't have any problems in that regard. I perform an oil analysis on every oil change just because I'm geeky like that and there's no problem running it 15k+ miles per oil change with the right oil.

Just a clarification on the auto vs manual debate though... it sounds like people are mentioning two very different cars on this thread 1) 1999.5-2003 Jetta TDI and 2) 2005.5-present Jetta TDI (more comparable to the Audi A3). These are two very different beasts with different body styles (the '10-present has yet another body style). As was said, there are automatics that I would never buy in a VW TDI. In the various forums online they refer to these as "slushboxes" because they are your standard planetary gearset, ton-of-hydraulic-fluid automatic transmission that seem to fall apart after about 150k miles. Not to mention, because of the inefficiencies of planetary gears with so much fluid "sloshing" around inside, they get noticeably worse gas mileage than a transmission with a proper clutch.

HOWEVER, VW (and Audi) make other amazing automatics that are called DSG transmissions (stands for Direct Shift Gearbox) and those are amazing technological pieces of work. Porsche and Audi have been racing DSG transmissions in their rally and street cars for decades and it's finally trickled down to the VW and Audi passenger cars. Basically a DSG is a transmission with two clutches and the ability to have two gears selected at once (almost like two transmissions working in tandem). For example, you start off in 1st gear with the clutch engaged, (we'll call this clutch #1) while the other half of the transmission is already in 2nd gear with clutch #2 disengaged. As soon as you hit the proper RPM's (and throttle position, etc.), clutch #1 disengages and clutch #2 engages at the same time so you get an immediate shift from 1st to 2nd gear. Then the transmission puts the first half into 3rd gear in anticipation for the next gear change from 2 to 3 and the process continues. They're amazing to drive and feel oh-so-good with the solid, lightning quick shifts. Because they are essentially a computer controlled manual transmission, they get as good (or better) gas mileage than you could get with even a regular manual transmission (short of hyper-miling techniques). If the car you're looking at is a 2005.5 or newer and it has an automatic, don't let that deter you UNTIL you determine if it's a DSG transmission or a slushbox. Some DSG's (the older ones with wet clutches instead of dry) do need a somewhat technical fluid change roughly every 40k miles.

Bottom line:
Older than 2005.5, don't buy an automatic
Newer than 2005.5, buy only the DSG automatic or a manual

With all of the TDI's, take special care that the timing belt has been done within the specified interval (generally 60,000mi unless someone has used one of the more recent 100,000 mile kits) and has been done properly. If anyone has done a "mark and pray" method of timing belt change on these TDI's, they're very likely to have a piston hit a valve at some point. It's not hard to do it right, but it does take special tools.

All that said, my next car will be a 2010 or newer Jetta TDI Sportwagen with that DSG transmission in it :) If only VW would offer the AWD version on this side of the pond...

BTW, here's a great diagram of the DSG automatics: http://cars.about.com/od/thingsyoun...ronic-transmiss/VW-Audi-DSG-diagram-large.htm

Thanks for the info!!
 

cbass

Well-known member
Aug 23, 2004
218
0
42
Salt Lake City, Utah
singingcamel said:
Somebody pencil out the price of diesel vs the price of gas in these Jettas and tell Me if its worth buying a Diesel.


I can only speak to my experience in my neighborhood. At a local station, diesel is $3.51 and regular unleaded is $3.25. If you drive 10,000 miles per year in a 2003 Jetta TDI (mine at 45 mpg avg) vs. a 2003 Jetta gas version (24mpg combined according to the fueleconomy.gov) you'd be looking at $1,354.17 per year for the gas version and $780.00 for the diesel version. Currently, kbb has the my car listed as $5625 and the gas version at $4425. At those prices, the diesel would pay for itself in 1.5 years.

However, as most people on these forums understand, you don't just buy a car because of the great fuel economy.... although our Land Rover's 14mpg is pretty good! /sarcasm.

Go drive the TDI version and then the gasser and you'd be crazy not to buy the TDI version, the thing pulls like a train, especially on canyon roads. As the saying goes, "people buy horsepower, but they drive torque."
 

singingcamel

Well-known member
Thanks , I'm not good at math.
I too ,am on the hunt , I'm leaning on a station wagon

cbass said:
I can only speak to my experience in my neighborhood. At a local station, diesel is $3.51 and regular unleaded is $3.25. If you drive 10,000 miles per year in a 2003 Jetta TDI (mine at 45 mpg avg) vs. a 2003 Jetta gas version (24mpg combined according to the fueleconomy.gov) you'd be looking at $1,354.17 per year for the gas version and $780.00 for the diesel version. Currently, kbb has the my car listed as $5625 and the gas version at $4425. At those prices, the diesel would pay for itself in 1.5 years.

However, as most people on these forums understand, you don't just buy a car because of the great fuel economy.... although our Land Rover's 14mpg is pretty good! /sarcasm.

Go drive the TDI version and then the gasser and you'd be crazy not to buy the TDI version, the thing pulls like a train, especially on canyon roads. As the saying goes, "people buy horsepower, but they drive torque."
 

Red90

Well-known member
Jun 15, 2004
78
0
Calgary
My 2 cents as a VW diesel guy.

If getting a Mark 4 Golf or Jetta, go for 2002 or 2003. They worked out a lot of the design flaws by then and the overall reliability is up. 2004, they switched to the PD motor. They are OK, but there are some issues.

Service history is everything with a car that age.

Power mods are cheapish and easy.