bobkitten said:
You don't need the ABS anyway. Lots of people just disable or remove it. Driving skill is more important than automation.
David
Discovery 2 300 tdi engine swap.
- Thread starter bobkitten
- Start date
You don't need the ABS anyway. Lots of people just disable or remove it. Driving skill is more important than automation.
David
D2s self-remove the ABS anyways with the three amigos.
bobkitten -- definitely document anything you end up doing, as I'm sure there are a ton of people interested.
bobkitten -- definitely document anything you end up doing, as I'm sure there are a ton of people interested.
Levi said:
That's for a DI.
Consider that the reason you're not finding anyone or any information about this is because it's not a good fit
You'd be better off with a TD5.Also, if you're questioning whether you'll lose dimming mirrors and heated seats doing an engine swap... You may want to rethink this
benlittle said:
Good clarification on this. Looking at the responses to some of the questions on the engines that site is selling on ebay it appeared that the tdi would work for both. He must be referring to the TD5 for the DII.
Bob, having lived in the Rest of the World for 6 years I appreciate your situation. I think you might find more comprehensive information for your proposed project on a different forum. I'm not discrediting Discoweb, I have found this place to be an excellent resource for parts and repairs, but let's keep the cultural context in perspective.
You live in a former British colony surrounded by 2-door and diesel Discos with ready access to inexpensive parts and labor. Most of the folks on Discoweb live in a different former British colony where our selection of Rovers consists almost exclusively of petrol V8s. If you wanted to know how to put a 4.6 V8 into your 4.0 Disco, this is a good source of information. Outside of the realm of petrol V8s, however, there isn't a great depth of experience in this community despite the fact that many of us would prefer TDI engines in our vehicles. Given the difficulty of obtaining parts/engines and the expense of diesel conversions in our situation, the rarity is understandable.
You might have better luck in a forum whose members are in a community where both diesels and petrols are widespread and people undertake this kind of project more frequently. The UK is an obvious candidate. South Africa and Australia are others. Hunt around for some forums in those countries, you might have some luck.
In the meantime, enjoy some Mount Gay rum and cheer for the Windies in their upcoming tour of Sri Lanka.
You live in a former British colony surrounded by 2-door and diesel Discos with ready access to inexpensive parts and labor. Most of the folks on Discoweb live in a different former British colony where our selection of Rovers consists almost exclusively of petrol V8s. If you wanted to know how to put a 4.6 V8 into your 4.0 Disco, this is a good source of information. Outside of the realm of petrol V8s, however, there isn't a great depth of experience in this community despite the fact that many of us would prefer TDI engines in our vehicles. Given the difficulty of obtaining parts/engines and the expense of diesel conversions in our situation, the rarity is understandable.
You might have better luck in a forum whose members are in a community where both diesels and petrols are widespread and people undertake this kind of project more frequently. The UK is an obvious candidate. South Africa and Australia are others. Hunt around for some forums in those countries, you might have some luck.
In the meantime, enjoy some Mount Gay rum and cheer for the Windies in their upcoming tour of Sri Lanka.
Lol. You speak very true words. Just that when i did a Google search for conversions this website surprisingly was one that came up. I do suspect that i might have come to the wrong place for info. But what i have obtained so far I still appreciate.
I've got a bottle of Mount Gay in the cupboard and Banks in the fridge.
The Windies on the other hand.....*shakes head*. I might just get another bottle of Mount Gay instead.
I've got a bottle of Mount Gay in the cupboard and Banks in the fridge.
The Windies on the other hand.....*shakes head*. I might just get another bottle of Mount Gay instead.
www.theoverlander.org/my-wheels/4x4s/discovery-2-overlander-with-a-300tdi-conversion.html
There is this guy who bought one with the swap done. But i can't reach him to get info from the shop that did it.
There is this guy who bought one with the swap done. But i can't reach him to get info from the shop that did it.
www.theoverlander.org/my-wheels/4x4s/discovery-2-overlander-with-a-300tdi-conversion.html
There is this guy who bought one with the swap done. But i can't reach him to get info from the shop that did it.
There is this guy who bought one with the swap done. But i can't reach him to get info from the shop that did it.
If you source the motor AND correct non-electronic trans it will be an "easy" swap all things considered.
The ABS will still work as will the traction control as they run off the wheel speed sensors and that's really all unless you flip the switch on the transfer to lock OUT these functions.
You'll need to retain ALL the sensors from the D2 gas engine. Oil pres., coolant temp (both for the ECU and gauge as they both tie into the climate control and allow it to function right)
You'll have to adapt a toothed ring onto the engine somewhere, I put mine on the front of the crank with a custom mount to hold the sensor - that is a 60 tooth with a 2 tooth "gap" if I recall correctly (I may be off a little on that?) The crank sensor then reads this as the RPM signal as well as a signal that the truck is trying to crank properly and not being hot-wired. If you modify ANY of the wires to the alternator, starter or this crank sensor the ECU talks to the BCU and shuts the truck down into a hard lockdown security mode. So they all have to used the same way and be seeing the same signals as they were with the gas engine in place.
You'll need to leave the throttle position sensor hooked up as well, just leave it connected and off to the side someplace. Position is not important.
As to the trans TCU idiot lights etc. and getting the Check Engine Light to not be on all the time - it gets FAR FAR FAR more complicated for sure...... but if you're not concerned with lights being on the dash or inspections etc. the truck will *function* fine without doing anything. Mirrors, lights, seats, dash, radio, heat/AC etc will work fine so long as you keep the BCU and security systems happy.
It is NOT easy, or a quick process to do right. But like I said if you're only looking for a good *running driving* truck and not worried about passing emissions or inspections it's a LOT easier.
The ABS/TC and speedometer work off the wheel sensors so as long as you dont modify those systems they will function fine.
The high pressure fuel pump will need to be regulated down to low pressure or removed and regular lines installed. You'll have to remove the restrictive fuel filler pipe inner guts. Add an extra fuel filter and obviously flush the system.
It will take a whole lot of custom parts, hoses, lines, adapters, wire rerouting etc etc. ALWAY figure on at least double the costs after you add it all up. REALLY. I can not stress this enough. I have access to a machine shop, 2 good salvage yards, every tool I could need and a nice warm shop and it still took 2-3 times the time and $$ I thought it would --- and I've done plenty of similar swaps before. I am doing one right now actually shoving a VW TDI into an Audi Quattro.
GOOD LUCK!
The ABS will still work as will the traction control as they run off the wheel speed sensors and that's really all unless you flip the switch on the transfer to lock OUT these functions.
You'll need to retain ALL the sensors from the D2 gas engine. Oil pres., coolant temp (both for the ECU and gauge as they both tie into the climate control and allow it to function right)
You'll have to adapt a toothed ring onto the engine somewhere, I put mine on the front of the crank with a custom mount to hold the sensor - that is a 60 tooth with a 2 tooth "gap" if I recall correctly (I may be off a little on that?) The crank sensor then reads this as the RPM signal as well as a signal that the truck is trying to crank properly and not being hot-wired. If you modify ANY of the wires to the alternator, starter or this crank sensor the ECU talks to the BCU and shuts the truck down into a hard lockdown security mode. So they all have to used the same way and be seeing the same signals as they were with the gas engine in place.
You'll need to leave the throttle position sensor hooked up as well, just leave it connected and off to the side someplace. Position is not important.
As to the trans TCU idiot lights etc. and getting the Check Engine Light to not be on all the time - it gets FAR FAR FAR more complicated for sure...... but if you're not concerned with lights being on the dash or inspections etc. the truck will *function* fine without doing anything. Mirrors, lights, seats, dash, radio, heat/AC etc will work fine so long as you keep the BCU and security systems happy.
It is NOT easy, or a quick process to do right. But like I said if you're only looking for a good *running driving* truck and not worried about passing emissions or inspections it's a LOT easier.
The ABS/TC and speedometer work off the wheel sensors so as long as you dont modify those systems they will function fine.
The high pressure fuel pump will need to be regulated down to low pressure or removed and regular lines installed. You'll have to remove the restrictive fuel filler pipe inner guts. Add an extra fuel filter and obviously flush the system.
It will take a whole lot of custom parts, hoses, lines, adapters, wire rerouting etc etc. ALWAY figure on at least double the costs after you add it all up. REALLY. I can not stress this enough. I have access to a machine shop, 2 good salvage yards, every tool I could need and a nice warm shop and it still took 2-3 times the time and $$ I thought it would --- and I've done plenty of similar swaps before. I am doing one right now actually shoving a VW TDI into an Audi Quattro.
GOOD LUCK!
Roving Beetle said:If you source the motor AND correct non-electronic trans it will be an "easy" swap all things considered.
The ABS will still work as will the traction control as they run off the wheel speed sensors and that's really all unless you flip the switch on the transfer to lock OUT these functions.
You'll need to retain ALL the sensors from the D2 gas engine. Oil pres., coolant temp (both for the ECU and gauge as they both tie into the climate control and allow it to function right)
You'll have to adapt a toothed ring onto the engine somewhere, I put mine on the front of the crank with a custom mount to hold the sensor - that is a 60 tooth with a 2 tooth "gap" if I recall correctly (I may be off a little on that?) The crank sensor then reads this as the RPM signal as well as a signal that the truck is trying to crank properly and not being hot-wired. If you modify ANY of the wires to the alternator, starter or this crank sensor the ECU talks to the BCU and shuts the truck down into a hard lockdown security mode. So they all have to used the same way and be seeing the same signals as they were with the gas engine in place.
You'll need to leave the throttle position sensor hooked up as well, just leave it connected and off to the side someplace. Position is not important.
As to the trans TCU idiot lights etc. and getting the Check Engine Light to not be on all the time - it gets FAR FAR FAR more complicated for sure...... but if you're not concerned with lights being on the dash or inspections etc. the truck will *function* fine without doing anything. Mirrors, lights, seats, dash, radio, heat/AC etc will work fine so long as you keep the BCU and security systems happy.
It is NOT easy, or a quick process to do right. But like I said if you're only looking for a good *running driving* truck and not worried about passing emissions or inspections it's a LOT easier.
The ABS/TC and speedometer work off the wheel sensors so as long as you dont modify those systems they will function fine.
The high pressure fuel pump will need to be regulated down to low pressure or removed and regular lines installed. You'll have to remove the restrictive fuel filler pipe inner guts. Add an extra fuel filter and obviously flush the system.
It will take a whole lot of custom parts, hoses, lines, adapters, wire rerouting etc etc. ALWAY figure on at least double the costs after you add it all up. REALLY. I can not stress this enough. I have access to a machine shop, 2 good salvage yards, every tool I could need and a nice warm shop and it still took 2-3 times the time and $$ I thought it would --- and I've done plenty of similar swaps before. I am doing one right now actually shoving a VW TDI into an Audi Quattro.
GOOD LUCK!
Very useful run down . . . :bigok: BTW, when all is said and done, would you put another 4BD1T in a Rover, D1 perhaps?
Harder, much harder overall.
More power for sure. Easier parts availability here in the States.
For you it would be a downgrade since you have easy access to the 300TDi.
More power for sure. Easier parts availability here in the States.
For you it would be a downgrade since you have easy access to the 300TDi.
bobkitten said:
I'm sure Roving Beetle will chime in here, as he's the one with the personal experience. But, I am planning to attempt this in my 95 D1 soon. The reasons why I have decided on the Isuzu are:
1.) Larger displacement, so significantly more power in stock trim (120 hp and 250 ft. lbs. of torque approx.) and the potential for a whole lot more with tuning.
2.) More robust construction, including timing gears instead of belt, etc. These motors were made to pull 1+ ton capacity trucks around and are built to industrial standards. Their longevity is much better than a Rover engine. They easily go 300K or more without a rebuild and use cylinder liners so they're easy to overhaul. Extremely reliable.
3.) Parts are available at any Isuzu or GM dealer.
4.) They were put into 110's from the factory for the LR market in Australia. They are a popular swap into Rovers there, even RR's. And have the reputation for giving very impressive and reliable performance there. Also the standard engine in 6x6 Defenders.
The main negatives to the swap:
1.) Much harder to do than a 300 Tdi in a D1 or RRC, since these vehicles came from the factory with the 300 Tdi and can be swapped over with ready made parts.
2.) Overall larger size of the motor, making it a tighter fit, but still doable.
3.) Significantly greater weight. The Isuzu weighs about 700 lbs, versus the sub 500 lbs of the 300 Tdi, but again doable.
David
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bobkitten said:
I think the shop that did it is: http://www.yorklandroverservices.com/
It's interesting though, in the pics on that site you linked, this one: http://www.theoverlander.org/images/my-wheels/343/205/IMG_0006.JPG
shows a d1 interior... the hvac/dash are D1... never seen that steering wheel though.
too bad he never popped the hood in those pics.
My preference would be to reproduce exactly a Td5, but if You are thinking about installing a 300TDI, that only needs one wire (this is right), may be it's possible to leave all ECU?s installed, running as dummy units (the engine needs no signal). If You get a R380 manual gearbox together with the TDI, it can be easier.
Regards
Regards