Disco Steering Wobble not fixed HELP!!....

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cdr146

Guest
Ok so I have posted here previously regarding a steering wheel "wobble" shake I get at about 65-70 mph when hitting bumps on the freeway. It is intermittent, not constant, but I was told this was due to shot left front wheel bearings. These were replaced, tires rotated, and a 4 wheel alignment done. Go down a freeway, accelerate to around 70, first couple of bumps feel some definite wobble, finally an all out shake after hitting several more bumps. It goes away and seems to not be noticable, I would think nothing was wrong if I didn't go above 60 mph. I am going to check the panhard bushings for myself, but I would like to hear other suggestions or similar problems anyone has had. Many of you have posted before, so I'd like you input again. Appreciate all the help. Thanks.
 
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02Disco2

Guest
Sounds like a worn steering dampner? My previous Jeep experienced the same death wobble and it was due to a worn trac arm.
 
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cdr146

Guest
I was thinking steering damper too...

but supposedly the shop did an entire inspection of the front suspension. It seems like it could be one of several things, but I am definately looking at the steering damper. Thanks for the input...Colin
 

TurdFerguson

Well-known member
Apr 29, 2005
883
0
Braselton, GA
I third the Steering Damper suggestion. I had the same Death Wobble. Around 60-70 got any little bump and the front end would shake so bad i would have to step on the brakes to decrease to 45mph...i replaced my damper for the OME damper and BARABEEM BARABOOM...Death Wobble Gone!
 

Ross_Thoma

Well-known member
Apr 25, 2004
97
0
51
Interlochen, Michigan
Check the beed on the tires I had 3 of 4 seperating on my Truxus MT's and the only way I figured it out was when I decided to rotate my tires and upon inspecting where the rim meets the rubber that I found ripping and seperating rubber and steelbelts. Got new tires and all better.

Look with a light real good and down in behind the rim.

Ross T
 
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cdr146

Guest
The shop is familiar with Rovers....

They are a Firestone dealer, who also sells auto's on the side, including used Rovers. They have sold serveral Disco's in the past few months. I'm going to try the steering damper, and I'll post my success/failure's on here. Thanks everyone.
 

WLDKGDM

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
165
0
57
Bothell, WA
www.northwestoverland.com
Don't forget........

Make sure the front RIGHT wheel bearings are happy too. They should be replaced all at the same time, but most people don't 'cause of $$ reasons or other.

Another thought is, even if the steering damper is replaced, doesn't mean that the steering damper is strong enough to dampen the wobble in your steering if you have larger tires.

Most of the larger, lifted American Steel trucks have a double damper on them because of lift and larger tire size.

Just some things to consider.

Dan
 
Apr 20, 2004
6,928
226
Floyd, Virginia
this question appears a lot

a dampner normally masks the real issue.
jack the truck one wheel at a time and check the bearings first...if they come out ok then its time to move to step 2
check the preload..you may need to remove some shims on the front.---

last as a side note ...i had a similar issue come in here last week and the cause ended up being a poorly installed steering box...the linkage on the back of the box was stripped and the steering wheel was just barely attached to the linkage...enough to turn but enough to rock back and forth as well.
 

Jaime

Well-known member
Apr 29, 2004
641
0
NJ
I have the same damn wobble. I tightened the steering damper nut on the pin end, and it attenuated the feel of the wobble but it's still there. Ihve new ball joint up front, and 1 year old ones on the track rod.

How can you tell that the swivel pin preload is too loose?
 

Jaime

Well-known member
Apr 29, 2004
641
0
NJ
I removed a bit less than half the thickness of the shims from the top swivel pins, and the death wobbles are gone!!

It's an easy job, the biggest hassle was getting to one of the bolts because the brake line goes right over it, and I did not want to disconnect the lines and deal with bleeding the brakes. A Gearwrench worked perfectly for that bolt.
 

jsonova99

Well-known member
Apr 14, 2005
1,683
0
47
Snow Hill, MD
Jaime said:
I removed a bit less than half the thickness of the shims from the top swivel pins, and the death wobbles are gone!!

It's an easy job, the biggest hassle was getting to one of the bolts because the brake line goes right over it, and I did not want to disconnect the lines and deal with bleeding the brakes. A Gearwrench worked perfectly for that bolt.


Do you have any pictures or more detail to what you did? I have this same problem
 

Jaime

Well-known member
Apr 29, 2004
641
0
NJ
Sorry, no pics... my truck is a D1, so it would not apply to a D2 (which I'm assuming from your sig is what you have)
 
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TobyS

Guest
Jaime,

Can you tell me how you knew the correct amount of shim to remove, or do you just try a couple times?

Also, does the car need to be in the are (weight off the hub) for this or anything?

Thanks! I just replaced my steering dampener and solved nothing.

As an aside (not really), the rod the dampener attaches to (I think it is the "Track Rod"?) feels relatively loose - it moves without a lot of trouble if i try to twist it. I though that was by design - is that not the case?

Thanks much!
 

DiscoJen

Well-known member
Aug 27, 2004
3,652
0
54
The Lou!
Check the torque on those tie rod ends. Tighten those castellated nuts up real snug then be sure to install a new cotter pin to keep them from backing off. Also check the tightness of the bolts on each end where the adjuster clamp thingies are. If you still have play at the tie rod end level, then you more than likely need to tie rod ends.

They aren't difficult or expensive to replace, but can be a real pain in the rear due to seizing.

Keep at it and good luck,
Jen
 
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jonathan_kelly

Guest
Deffinately check the condition of your Swivel bearings and pre-load setting. I had a similar problem with with my D1 200tdi. On investigation the left hand swivel housing had no grease in and the bearings were shot. I had a garage do the first swivel housing, (new housing, bearings, & CV joint, seals etc) and a couple of months later I did the right hand swivel housing myself. The hardest part of the job was removing the old swivel housing as the bolts are glued into the axle. I followed the workshop manuals instructions for setting the preload with no problems.

Cheers
Jonathan