D1 Radiator Options

[jmonsrvr]

get recored and have them put in another row... you will have a really nice radiator that cools extremely well. better than original. I had my 95 disco done for 320 and and my 93 lwb for the same price. I drive in 110 degree heat all of the time in the desert mtns of the southern sierras on the east side all of the time for archaeology work with ac blowing and no issues what so ever.. I had mine done at a shop that specializes in mustang radiators for racing.

shop around for a good deal and reputible shop.

 

[96discoI]

why so many problems with your coolant systems? should i be worried about mine? Is mine different because it has the manual 5 spd. tranny? sorry,just lurking and looking for potential future problems. i should probably stick to what i know is already broken. an extra row of coolant tubes sounds like a great idea. i would assume an Al radiator would be more compatible with the Al block. less electrolysis and all. just thinking out loud. Cu is stupid expensive...

 

[p m]

i would assume an Al radiator would be more compatible with the Al block. less electrolysis and all. just thinking out loud. Cu is stupid expensive...

That is funny...
As you may observe if you peek under the hood, the engine block and radiator are not electrically connected (at least, should not be). So electrolysis is not that big of a factor.
And if you look at the prices above, copper at $420 is somewhat cheaper than a $1000 aluminum.

 

[ERover82]

He's talking about galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals connected by fluid. Yes, there will be much less corrosion with an Al radiator as opposed to dissimilar metals like Al and Cu. It's also true that aluminum is cheaper and that is why there are a few cheap Al D1 radiator options out there. The one above is expensive because it's high quality custom work, made in the UK, not china.

 

[antichrist]

Part of the reason many of those Al radiators are cheaper (aside from being made in China) is that they have cheap plastic tanks. We all know how well the plastic radiator plugs last.
There are a couple of other things to take in to account, depending. Copper is a much better thermal conductor than aluminum, and a copper radiator is easier to "field repair" than aluminum, in the event of damage.

 

[p m]

He's talking about galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals connected by fluid. Yes, there will be much less corrosion with an Al radiator as opposed to dissimilar metals like Al and Cu. It's also true that aluminum is cheaper and that is why there are a few cheap Al D1 radiator options out there. The one above is expensive because it's high quality custom work, made in the UK, not china.

Eric,

something needs to complete the circuit. Plates in lead-acid battery are also connected by fluid, yet they don't dissolve. If the copper radiator and aluminum block were galvanically connected _outside_ of fluid, then it would be a problem (not that Rover engineers are above and beyond that).

Edit: LMGTFY

 

[ERover82]

In a dish experiment, yes. The real world is more complex. Galvanic corrosion still occurs slowly because the coolant is both a conductor (unlike distilled water) and an ion exchange medium. It also largely occurs because suspended particles are transported and deposited. Solder joints present in copper radiators are also a source of galvanic corrosion.

 

[p m]

In a dish experiment, yes. The real world is more complex. Galvanic corrosion still occurs slowly because the coolant is both a conductor (unlike distilled water) and an ion exchange medium. It also largely occurs because suspended particles are transported and deposited. Solder joints present in copper radiators are also a source of galvanic corrosion.

Come on.
A liquid becomes a conductor when it is an ion exchange medium.

We used stainless steel fasteners on aluminum instrument cases, partially and repeatedly immersed in seawater (both open ocean and surf zone), for years - separated by nylon collared washers. And the difference in anodic index between SS and Al is more than twice that between copper and lead-tin solder.

 

[96discoI]

all good to know.my faith in the d-web has been restored.
my current coolant woes center on a bad stant thermostat and a defective expansion tank that atlantic british told me was 'supposed to be loose to relieve pressure'.
napa sold the bad 'stat, but made it right. atlantic british said i would be getting the proper cap mailed out. that was about a week ago. no apology, no cap, no nothin'.
I have been chasing cooling problems for two years because of this cap that they damn well knew was defective. I only got the truth out of the agent because he was a british pacific employee in california who hadn't been a part of AB when they were tossing bad parts at me.
I get that parts are defective sometimes. understandable, but why was i told that was the new design and that it would solve all of the pressure/overheating problems of the discovery?
I didn't have any problems, i just hated not seeing through the black plastic and we were moving 2000 miles, so i wanted a spare to take with us.
I didn't know I was buying something that already needed a spare!

 

[Abran]

What theromostat? If it was what was listed at your local parts store for a Discovery, it's most likely too hot. Every listing I've seen says to use a 195, which is too hot. Should be a 180 if you get it locally. I run Stant Superstat - 45858 - $9.99 at Advance Auto.

Tom,

What did you use for a gasket with the Stant Superstat?

Thanks,

Abran

 

[96discoI]

all very good things to know. I am once again heartened by the positivity and useful nature of the input here. maybe i am just getting better at ignoring the negativity and sabre rattling. either way, thanks for the knowledge now and in the future...

 

[96discoI]

why is 195 too hot? its what the computer is reading when it opens up at 180, so it should throw everything off right? I am getting much better power and mileage with the 195 now and it has no bleeder hole.

 

[adms]

bumping this up.

i have a failing (driver's side hot, passenger side warm) OEM-style replacement rad in my D1. found this thing on ebay for $300:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/56MM-Landro...Parts_Accessories&hash=item417b667d3c&vxp=mtr

what say you? i know the reliability of the china knockoff stuff isnt 100%, but it seems like a good setup. a few guys have had good luck with this sort of stuff on XJ forums, and this brand has positive reviews from aussie silvia and honda forums.

 

[jhmover]

To the OP. Did you check the fan clutch? My 96 was acting goofy like that and would run hot or normal no rhyme or reason. After checking everything out I finally put a HD fan clutch on it. It sounds like an B-29 all the time but it never overheats anymore.

 

[DiscoPhoto]

I have a radiator in great condition I'd sell you for $130 shipped, used genuine. Doing an engine swap so don't need it.

 

[MM3846]

hm, idk why that adms account posted i thought it didnt work. anyway, same guy here. i'm a little weary of installing a used radiator, even if it is in good shape, simply due to age. if the el cheapo plastic tank ones are fine, i'll use one of those. i dont plan on crazy rock crawling or towing with this thing but it will be on the beach and will see the easy trails at rausch creek in PA.

 

[ERover82]

Buy the all aluminum one, it's only a little more than the aluminum/plastic. Then let us know how it works out.

 

[MM3846]

thats is currently the plan. i sent the ebay seller a question regarding the warranty on the rad, waiting on his response.

 

[Disco_Stu]

To the OP. Did you check the fan clutch? My 96 was acting goofy like that and would run hot or normal no rhyme or reason. After checking everything out I finally put a HD fan clutch on it. It sounds like an B-29 all the time but it never overheats anymore.

Actually this is what it was. My clutch was working ok at first, but as it got hot was losing its effectiveness. I went and ordered the S-10 fan clutch and put it in, no problems since then.

 

[sedat]

that aluminum rad is tits.


I'm running a 2 1" core alu GM truck rad with a 6.0 LS style fan. Fucker overcools sometimes.