D1 Radiator Options

[Disco_Stu]

My 1995 automatic has been been having issues the last few summers, where if you are driving in the city with the AC on, it would slowly begin overheating. If you turn the AC off, or are driving on the interstate all was ok. Now it starting to get a little worse, overheating in city driving without the AC, and on the interstate with AC. I am assuming the radiator is the original one, and I am trying to determine what to do. Atlantic British has replacement radiators for ~$600, I have seen the recommendations to have the radiator re-cored. I called around last year to price and the estimate I got was over $700. I haven't priced getting the radiator rodded, but I know there are risks that it might damage the radiator, and I am not sure what type of positive results it will have.

The water pump, thermostat and several hoses were replaced last year, electric fans seem to be ok, any other ideas or solutions that I am overlooking?

 

[p m]

I had a couple of radiators (95 and 96) rodded in the same place in San Diego - the price was $85. In both cases, about 1/2 of passages was open. When the shop discovered that fins and tubes became brittle on the 3rd radiator (another 96 D1), they advised me to re-core - and did it for about $470 (with a "heavy-duty" core - don't know what exactly that means, but the ~3/8" gaps between the tank edges and faces of the core are gone).
I can't imagine the prices to be higher in KY.
While driving in the same conditions, the peak temperatures fell from 224F to 199F, the bottom - from 194F to 183F (all with 190F thermostat).

 

[cupgt]

I have a D1 auto radiator out of a parts truck. Was replace according to previous owner. I can take it down to the local radiator shop and have it flow tested if your interested.

 

[stevenr]

Don't waste money with these Rover radiators getting rodded. Buy a new genuine Land Rover radiator. I went through all of this a few years ago and local shop even flow tested mine and was still having problems. Bought a new OEM rad and have been fine ever since. Do not get the off brand models either like Rovers North Proline.

 

[p m]

Steven -
if I had a radiator rodded and still had cooling issues, I'd started looking elsewhere.
Of course a rodded radiator is not the same as brand new, but it isn't half-plugged, either.

 

[honda50r]

No way. Get it flushed and pressure-tested and you're good. It's ridiculous to buy a new radiator

 

[antichrist]

I had one re-cored locally last year for $480 for a HD core. The price of copper has made it stupid expensive but I still think it's the best option. I've heard that even the OEM radiators are cheaper made than they were in the 90's.

 

[antichrist]

The water pump, thermostat and several hoses were replaced last year, electric fans seem to be ok, any other ideas or solutions that I am overlooking?

What theromostat? If it was what was listed at your local parts store for a Discovery, it's most likely too hot. Every listing I've seen says to use a 195, which is too hot. Should be a 180 if you get it locally. I run Stant Superstat - 45858 - $9.99 at Advance Auto.

 

[Disco_Stu]

I had a couple of radiators (95 and 96) rodded in the same place in San Diego - the price was $85. In both cases, about 1/2 of passages was open. When the shop discovered that fins and tubes became brittle on the 3rd radiator (another 96 D1), they advised me to re-core - and did it for about $470 (with a "heavy-duty" core - don't know what exactly that means, but the ~3/8" gaps between the tank edges and faces of the core are gone).
I can't imagine the prices to be higher in KY.
While driving in the same conditions, the peak temperatures fell from 224F to 199F, the bottom - from 194F to 183F (all with 190F thermostat).

When I called about re-coring I called two shops one quoted $695 the other quoted $800 so I figured that was the going rate. Both mentioned the fact that it was an aluminum radiator so I figured that was the reason the price was so high. Maybe I need to price check some more. When you got that price was it for a radiator that was already out of the truck? Maybe the price I got included installation and labor. If you get a radiator rodded, and they punch threw is the radiator still able to be re-cored or do you have to purchase a new one?

 

[cupgt]

When I called about re-coring I called two shops one quoted $695 the other quoted $800 so I figured that was the going rate. Both mentioned the fact that it was an aluminum radiator so I figured that was the reason the price was so high. Maybe I need to price check some more. When you got that price was it for a radiator that was already out of the truck? Maybe the price I got included installation and labor. If you get a radiator rodded, and they punch threw is the radiator still able to be re-cored or do you have to purchase a new one?

You can still recore it. I had mine rodded out and its been fine since. I do have a really nice spare on hand though that I scored at the pull a part. Local shop here rods for 40 bucks. Also your OEM radiator is copper and brass, not aluminum.

 

[p m]

When I called about re-coring I called two shops one quoted $695 the other quoted $800 so I figured that was the going rate. Both mentioned the fact that it was an aluminum radiator so I figured that was the reason the price was so high. Maybe I need to price check some more. When you got that price was it for a radiator that was already out of the truck? Maybe the price I got included installation and labor. If you get a radiator rodded, and they punch threw is the radiator still able to be re-cored or do you have to purchase a new one?

The D1 radiators are plain Jane copper. Tell them to pound sand, and find somebody who actually knows what they are dealing with.

 

[ERover82]

Don't be a cheap ass. Allisport custom aluminum radiator:

Only about $1000 shipped. :smilelol:

 

[p m]

Don't be a cheap ass. Allisport custom aluminum radiator:
Only about $1000 shipped. :smilelol:

LOL...
There's an outfit somewhere in Inland Empire (SoCal) specializing in aluminum radiators. They told me they could make one for a Disco or Classic for under $300.

 

[listerdiesel]

Corrosion from road salt is what kills most radiators over here in the UK, but the one in mine is the original and still running OK (D2)

Thermostats and water pumps seem to cause most grief, plus that little air bleed pipe on the D2 that gets clogged.

Peter

 

[Robbie]

if you do get one rebuilt, have them put a drain in the radiator so you don't have to make a mess each time you need to dump the coolant.

 

[Ed Z]

I checked mine over and over again... It finally turned out to be the fan clutch... It would work fine till it got warmed up, but then it didn't drive the fan well at all after that... I used the Chevy truck clutch replacement (about $50)... The thing has not come close to getting hot ever since... I highly recommend replacing the fan clutch before proceeding with the rad...

 

[IamVince]

The time I changed mine I found a piece of the bottom hose had came apart and was blocking the water pump.

 

[Racer X]

Rockauto has a copper/brass ProRad for $420 plus shipping ($10 or $15 prob). Brand new with a 2 year warranty sure beats a rodded or re-cored radiator with no warranty that's more expensive.

 

[p m]

Rockauto has a copper/brass ProRad for $420 plus shipping ($10 or $15 prob). Brand new with a 2 year warranty sure beats a rodded or re-cored radiator with no warranty that's more expensive.

It's a good price. My radiator was re-cored with a heavy-duty core for $472 locally, so IMO it was worth it. Still, for the trucks that rarely see the dirt, a copper replacement for $420 is a good deal.

 

[jmonsrvr]

get recored and have them put in another row... you will have a really nice radiator that cools extremely well. better than original. I had my 95 disco done for 320 and and my 93 lwb for the same price. I drive in 110 degree heat all of the time in the desert mtns of the southern sierras on the east side all of the time for archaeology work with ac blowing and no issues what so ever.. I had mine done at a shop that specializes in mustang radiators for racing.

shop around for a good deal and reputible shop.