Cry For Help: Apparent ECU Problems

[MUD RIDE]

When this problem started, everything appeared to work on my 99 d2. It started and nothing different except it was locked in park (oh yeah, the gas door and other buttons in that area wouldn't work). I turned it off and restarted several times, making sure the brake peddle was pressed. Recalling a previous problem on my 98 d1, a loose connector under the shifter plate, I pulled that off and nothing was apparently loose. It still would start at this point. So....I thought why not disconnect the battery and see what happens.... I did and after reconnecting, the opposite happens. Buttons all work and I can move the shifter after turning the key.....but the engine will not turn over. And there is what looks like a capital letter B with a line thru it in the odometer area.

Has anyone had this issue before?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Dave

 

[Rocky]

Don't put it into park.

Nothing in the owner manual?

 

[MUD RIDE]

doesn't matter what spot on the shifter it is in now...doesn't turn over. I cannot locate my owners manual at the moment...

 

[MUD RIDE]

Good Ol' British Electronics.....

Ok, this has to take the cake of my fun with Rovers. Recall that I said some of the buttons didn't work in my explanation. Among them, the emergency flashers....I got it to a point where I could get it out of park but it wouldn't start (and the flashers still weren't working).

Tonight, I remembered where I put my manual so I went to the back opened up the rear door and alacazam.....the flashers started working! ...this being so wierd, I tried to start the truck and sure enough....it did. I have no idea why things are working now, but they are.

Cheers to the Rover Gods this evening!!!

 

[MUD RIDE]

Update

It has happened again. I did some more digging and the fact that both manual and sport icons flashing indicates potential transmission trouble. Thanks Land Rover for not letting me drive my truck, potential damaging other things??????
My OBDII Code Reader is coming soon...hopefully I can diagnose.

Happy New Year!

 

[D Chapman]

Time for that Chrysler Transmission.......

 

[MUD RIDE]

Ha! Maybe time for mass transit. The damn thing started working again for no apparent reason..... Since then I have been given some advice to check a few electrical connections. I am hoping to actually narrow this down...

 

[Chris-St Louis]

There are a couple of TSBs on this. A few about Loose battery cables, and One about the Neutral Safety switch getting filled with water causing the S and M lights to come on at the same time.

Here is how your starting system works..

When the ignition switch is moved to the crank position III, a feed passes from fuse 23 to the coil of the starter relay in the engine compartment fusebox on a WR wire.

The coil is earthed to the BCU on a BO wire When the BCU determines that starter operation is allowed, the earth path is completed and the starter relay energizes, closing the relay contacts.

The feed from fusible link 12 passes through the starter relay contacts and is connected from the engine compartment fusebox to the coil of the starter motor solenoid on an NR wire. The coil energizes, closing the starter motor solenoid contacts. The coil is earthed via the starter motor body.

The feed from the battery positive terminal passes through the closed contacts of the starter motor solenoid and operates the starter motor. The starter motor is earthed through the motor body attachment.

When the ignition switch is released, it returns to position II. This terminates the feed from the ignition switch to the starter relay coil, de-energizing the coil and opening the relay contacts. This, in turn removes the feed from fusible link 12 to the starter motor solenoid coil, opening the contacts and removing the battery feed to the starter motor

 

[MUD RIDE]

That safety switch thing might be a possiblity in my case. Since the last post, it happened yet again! I just got my Code reader and was able to reset one of the codes. As of yet, I am unable to determine a direct link but I continue to monitor and take notes. Be able to drive my truck again makes it difficult to work on the problem......but I am not complaining!

 

[Markyd]

If anything else fails here and I have to say you've got a pretty comprehensive answer below. But look for a short on/near the starter motor

 

[jymmiejamz]

that sounds like what happened to my old DII when the battery terminal was loose, at least with the no start and flashind m and s lights.

 

[MUD RIDE]

terminals have been cleaned and checked....and rechecked. Next time it happens.....starter motor, after I determine if resetting of the code actuall does it when I did it last time the m & s lights stopped blinking.... Of course this was after the truck had started on its own.

 

[DannyDisco]

Mud,
Did you ever get your truck started, and when everything was running did you have problems with the gears??

Dan

 

[MUD RIDE]

man!!!!! Yes, I did 'several times'. I am gonna double check things again. It has happened again and I am totally clueless (hold your laughter please;-) I feel like I have a big paper weight in the yard!

 

[MUD RIDE]

Alright....I have finally replaced the "Starter Inhibitor Switch....aka one each, Switch Gear Position XYZ". ALL codes related to the transmission are gone, but I am getting a new one: P1668 Land Rover Anti-Theft Alarm serial link faultDrive cycle A:Signal out of range - above maximum .

There have been a few instances in the past where there were issues setting and unsetting the alarm. I guess it has finally gone. I still can't start my vehicle though.....

It's going to the shop soon. I can't take it!

 

[Plain2000DII]

What shape is your battery in? dead and dying or shorted batteries can reek havoc on electrical systems.

 

[Mrmerlin]

Hi I would put a new battery in first, you might fix the truck. Also check the ignition disable switch on the passenger side of the engine compartment , reset it by pressing the top do this after you put in a new battery, Stan

 

[MUD RIDE]

I finally replaced the battery....no luck. I have made attempts to follow all the wonderful advice I have gotten but to no avail. I am very afraid of taking it to the dealer now....it seems that this is not necessarily any easy/quick fix, from what I have read of other that have had this or similar problems. If I didn't have so much money in this rig I would set it free;-)

 

[MUD RIDE]

here is an update.......

When troubleshooting the beast, I would test all the switches etc. A recent Sunday after getting home from a trip, I was sleeping at about 9pm or so and my step daughter wakes me up to tell me that the emergency flashers are going off and on...on the Rover!!!!! Sure enough, the were. Previously, I had purchased an optima yellow top and even though it was fully charged....it didn't absolutley nothing....same error codes etc. Well...now the damn thing is working. My only guess is that it needed time to recycle or something...cuz now everything works!!!!!

Can anyone shed any light on this? Or is it just being flaking, waiting to flakeout again???

On another note, I am pretty sure it needs to have a new head gasket......dammmmmmmmit!!!!!