coolant loss at expansion tank
- Thread starter jrolfedrev
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T-Stat was changed as well and the new radiator also but truck still overheat. Coolant sensor was replaced as well as clutch fan. Then she's still hot. According to the tech (savvy Rover), almost every parts was changed and still could not figure out. He will try to see if cats or exhaust systems is the culprit. There is no rattling sounds but when my wife was driving the car when it first overheats due to rad leak it was smoking all over the place so it might fried the cats.:banghead: :banghead: :banghead:singingcamel said:
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Try replacing the reservoir cap! It may not be relieving pressure causing your system to over pressurize.
This happened to me last weekend driving past Mt. Fuji.
This happened to me last weekend driving past Mt. Fuji.
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A lot of very good and sophisticated advice being dispensed here.
Here is a simpler idea.
I had both my 95 D1 and my 91 RRC both develop a sneaky problem. The original (black) expansion tanks develop a very small crack on a molding seam on the under side of the tank. Under high pressure/high temperature it will blow coolant through the crack. The tank doesn't lose integrity and once the tank runs dry or the rig cools down a bit, the crack (as its on a seam anyway) seals itself and is almost impossible to see. Eventually it will blow (one of mine did and the other I replace before it failed entirely).
I have been told that this is why the replacement tanks are now white plastic -- they are improved and the color allows you to tell whether you have the improved tank or not.
Not sure if this might be related to the problems discussed here but these were puzzlers on my two vehicles that had led to undetectable coolant leak and over heating. Replacing the expansion tank is cheap and easy and solved the problem.
Thought it might help.
Will
Here is a simpler idea.
I had both my 95 D1 and my 91 RRC both develop a sneaky problem. The original (black) expansion tanks develop a very small crack on a molding seam on the under side of the tank. Under high pressure/high temperature it will blow coolant through the crack. The tank doesn't lose integrity and once the tank runs dry or the rig cools down a bit, the crack (as its on a seam anyway) seals itself and is almost impossible to see. Eventually it will blow (one of mine did and the other I replace before it failed entirely).
I have been told that this is why the replacement tanks are now white plastic -- they are improved and the color allows you to tell whether you have the improved tank or not.
Not sure if this might be related to the problems discussed here but these were puzzlers on my two vehicles that had led to undetectable coolant leak and over heating. Replacing the expansion tank is cheap and easy and solved the problem.
Thought it might help.
Will
According to the shop, it needs an engine replacement since there is a back pressure on liner number 3 and 4 with sleeve of 1.0 mm. Asking $2600 for a used engine installed with 55K miles. Labor was deducted since the first job did not fixed the problem. I spent $1500 on the head job, is this reasonable? I ask the shop to give me the vin number so I can check the history of the used engine.
