Changing rotoflex

[Rover1]

Just wondering if anyone has ever changed this and how difficult it can be. I've read a lot about converting to a U-joint, but don't want to spend the money right now, so I would rather just spend the $85 and change the rubber rotoflex which has several visible cracks. D1 with 99,000 mi.
Thanks for any info.

 

[tlthurlow]

If you decide to change it, I have a new rotoflex coupler I'll sell for $70 plus shipping. It still has the tags on it, I went with the GBR shaft instead. I don't think it it's very hard to change at all. Just let me know.

 

[Roverlady]

We are going to change mine soon....got a new one and my husband tried to get the old one off last week with no avail. We were even using pneumatic tools and LOTS of seafoam lubricant.....he's going to try again this weekend.

Good luck!

 

[MUSKYMAN]

the hard part isnt removing the old one its getting the pilot bushing out of the end of the driveshaft.

if the pilot bushing is still good you can leave it but if it is worn and dosent fit tight on the centering pin of the rear pinion flange it should be changed as well.

i have had good luck cutting the pilot bushing with a die grinder until the tension is relieved and the it jut pulls out with a pliers.

MM

 

[garrett]

the hard part isnt removing the old one its getting the pilot bushing out of the end of the driveshaft.

if the pilot bushing is still good you can leave it but if it is worn and dosent fit tight on the centering pin of the rear pinion flange it should be changed as well.

i have had good luck cutting the pilot bushing with a die grinder until the tension is relieved and the it jut pulls out with a pliers.

MM

shit. tell me about it. i still have nightmares about that week.........oh i mean week of hell.
i actually ended up having a LR dealership in FL FedEx me the LR tool to remove the god damn centralizing peg. my ex what friends with someone there.

some are just easier than others. i thank my lucky stars my two 98s and my 99 have u joints. sometimes i wake up in a cold sweat having nightmares they all have rotos on them.

 

[Rover1]

Sounds like I'm in for quite a treat. I believe the centralizing peg doens't come with the rotoflex kit does it? I might as well change the whole thing while I'm in there. Was the tool very expensive?
I'll let you know about the rotoflex, thanks for the offer.

 

[RichardS]

Not sure how much the special tool costs. I used a more generic tool - a slide hammer which you can use for a lot of other things. My pin was corroded and stuck pretty good but several good whacks with the slide hammer pulled it free.

The slide hammer may or may not come with a suitable attachment for pulling the pin, you need something that can be bolted to the pin and then bolted to the slide hammer. Some have a forged square tube attachment that works great, you just need to provide a bolt that fits the pin.

Some do not have this but you can make one by going to a metal fab shop and asking for a scrap of 2" x 2" thick wall square tubing. Slightly larger or smaller and even rectangular will work. You only need an inch of this tubing, then drill holes in opposing faces and bolt to the slide hammer and pin using two bolts inserted from the inside of the tube.

 

[apg]

Removing the peg is only an issue if you are swapping over to U-joints. For refitting the rotoflex, you shouldn't have to fool with it....but I've got a slide hammer ready, nontheless.

 

[barefoot]

that is exactly right...you donot have to pull the peg unless u are putting in a ujointed shaft.

i got a low mileage ujointed shaft from jammer for $80 off of a 98...cmae with the flange as well. i did , however, have to buy a spacer ring for $10 from nathan.

i did this after 1st replacing the rotoflex on;y to have that fail w/in a year! so save your money...buy a used shaft for close to the same price or get a new one from gbr and be done with it...

 

[MUSKYMAN]

I believe garrett misread my post

I was not referring to the centering peg...I was talking about the pilot bushing located in the end of the rear driveshaft. the pilot bushing is designed to maintain alignment between the pinion and the driveshaft. when the pilot bushing gets egged out the new rotoflex will not last long at all.

one of the reasons so many people have gone through roto-flex after roto-flex is that they omit to change the pilot bushing.

if you are doing the job I say do it correctly.

MM

 

[Rover1]

Thanks Muskyman .. I misrread as well. I will definately change that out as well.
Thanks for all the advice.

 

[garrett]

I believe garrett misread my post

I was not referring to the centering peg...I was talking about the pilot bushing located in the end of the rear driveshaft. the pilot bushing is designed to maintain alignment between the pinion and the driveshaft. when the pilot bushing gets egged out the new rotoflex will not last long at all.

one of the reasons so many people have gone through roto-flex after roto-flex is that they omit to change the pilot bushing.

if you are doing the job I say do it correctly.

MM

nah. i was just reliving the hell i went through that week getting that damn thing off to replace with a RRC shaft and flange. i thought i forgot all about it and now you have gone and made me remember it and needed to vent. thanks........thanks alot.

good point on the bushing as some "kits" come with it and others don't.

 

[Roverlady]

Where can I find the bushing if we need it? Nathan or AB or Rovers north? Will they sell them separately?

Thanks for the clarification guys, I was getting a little worried. Will be replacing the entire driveshaft later.....

 

[garrett]

here is the complete "kit" with said pilot bushing.

http://www.roverparts.com/ProductLi...erPage=1&ListType=DETAIL&PartNumber=TVF100010

 

[Roverlady]

Thanks Garrett
I wonder if AB will sell the bushing separately since I already have a new Rubber rotoflex.....and can get new bolts locally....

Rover 1-did you have any luck replacing yours yet? We haven't had time to do mine....