Best "Go-fast" suspension set-up?

[SLC99Disco]

Ok, maybe a Disco isnt the right rig for this stuff, but it is what I have.

I want to set up my suspension for mild to medium crawling, and some 40-50 mph prerunning, and some light dune duty. I have OME HD springs right now,, and some POS temporary shocks.

What would you think the ideal set-up for this would be? FOX 2.0 remote resevoir front and rear with FOX air-bumps and RTE radius arms with some HD trailing links? What would you do? How are my axle housings going to hold up to this as this is still my DD

 

[D Chapman]

I would sell the Rover and buy a late model VW Bettle.

 

[SLC99Disco]

I would sell the Rover and buy a late model VW Bettle.

I have thought about that,,,, but then I thought twice about it...

 

[racerwad]

the limey's setup is good to a little under 110 mph, apparently.

 

[maxyedor]

I had the same issue, I live 2 hours from Mexico so I'm down there a lot. Plenty of my budies have Rovers so I asked around and came up with RTE 3" springs HD front/MD rear, RTE rear links, stock fronts for now, Fox 10" travel shocks with remote res. The shocks are valved identical front and back wich make the rear a little under sprung, and overshocked, this puts more strain on the shocks but they Fox's handle it fine, and once you get up to speed the rear rides lower and the truck stays pretty stable. I run dislocation cones out back and limiting straps on the front, so when I get air the rear drops hard, though I will soon be going to a quick conect limiting strap in the back. I use a 4.5" tall bump stop that I got from 4Wheel Parts wich slows the axel's up travel before stoping it. I would stick to a set-up similar to mine, I know a guy who races an RRC and his King 3.0 coil overs work so well he was able to push it so hard he ended up bending the axel housings, a D60 swap later he's good to go though.

Change your wheels too, try and get as wide a stance as possible for stability's sake, solid axels get a little tippy at high speed, especially with a loaded rack.

 

[justinhaaga]

get some firm shocks and you'll be fine. Fox 2.0 would be the top tier & blingstings 7100s.

you have not ran with us wasatch rovers yet, we do 40-50 mph on the dirt and 110 on the highway;

 

[SLC99Disco]

get some firm shocks and you'll be fine. Fox 2.0 would be the top tier & blingstings 7100s.

you have not ran with us wasatch rovers yet, we do 40-50 mph on the dirt and 110 on the highway;

110? lol I think my poor disco would shake itself apart at that speed lol

 

[SLC99Disco]

I had the same issue, I live 2 hours from Mexico so I'm down there a lot. Plenty of my budies have Rovers so I asked around and came up with RTE 3" springs HD front/MD rear, RTE rear links, stock fronts for now, Fox 10" travel shocks with remote res. The shocks are valved identical front and back wich make the rear a little under sprung, and overshocked, this puts more strain on the shocks but they Fox's handle it fine, and once you get up to speed the rear rides lower and the truck stays pretty stable. I run dislocation cones out back and limiting straps on the front, so when I get air the rear drops hard, though I will soon be going to a quick conect limiting strap in the back. I use a 4.5" tall bump stop that I got from 4Wheel Parts wich slows the axel's up travel before stoping it. I would stick to a set-up similar to mine, I know a guy who races an RRC and his King 3.0 coil overs work so well he was able to push it so hard he ended up bending the axel housings, a D60 swap later he's good to go though.

Change your wheels too, try and get as wide a stance as possible for stability's sake, solid axels get a little tippy at high speed, especially with a loaded rack.

Thanks for the info :victory:

What valving are you running in your Fox shocks?

What size tire are you running?

 

[maxyedor]

I run a 235/85 tire left over from my 2" lift days, I just can't bring myself to git rid of tires with 90% of the tread left, but when I do need new tires I'm going to regear and get 33's that are a little wider on a steel wheel that's got more or less back spacing (wicher meens a wider stance) and a set of 235/85's that are a little bit smoother tread on my alloys for the street.

As for valving I have no idea, I just called my favorite indy shop (Inland Rovers) gave them my credit car number and said "build me some kick-ass shocks" and I got just that, kick ass shocks. I do know that they are 2" bodies with a 10" stoke and they are valved the same front and rear.

 

[marc olivares]

max, for your valving, check under the rubber bump stop on the shock shaft. it's scribed on the flat blue surface.
all shocks valved from fox are scribed.

i'm guessing that they are valved 85/95, seems to be a common valve setting that inland likes from what i've seen.

sean, i've got mine valves 85/95 in the front and 90/100 in the rear.
anything in the 85-105 range is where you want to be.
fine tuning would depend on how much gear you run with.

 

[XtremeMarine]

I would have to second the look at a VW comment. You could set a whole car up for half the price of the Rover suspension alone. And feel less fearful abvout breaking out the Sawzall. lol.

 

[maxyedor]

Justed looked under the rubber bumper like Marc said and he's right they're 85/95.

 

[ChicagoDon]

Go-fast = Coilovers

 

[SLC99Disco]

Go-fast = Coilovers

Coilovers are on my wish list!!!

Ok, lets say i want to go less fast than coilovers, but much faster than the procomps with too long of shock bodies and rear drop out cones will let me

 

[SLC99Disco]

I would have to second the look at a VW comment. You could set a whole car up for half the price of the Rover suspension alone. And feel less fearful abvout breaking out the Sawzall. lol.

I have already had 3 VW's,, not really what I am looking for right now. I still want to be able to do trails like Prichet and Behind the Rocks,, but I also want to be able to bomb down dirt roads and two track trails

 

[SLC99Disco]

max, for your valving, check under the rubber bump stop on the shock shaft. it's scribed on the flat blue surface.
all shocks valved from fox are scribed.

i'm guessing that they are valved 85/95, seems to be a common valve setting that inland likes from what i've seen.

sean, i've got mine valves 85/95 in the front and 90/100 in the rear.
anything in the 85-105 range is where you want to be.
fine tuning would depend on how much gear you run with.

Ok, sweet. Thanks Marc. I was trying to find the post on utahoffroad where you told me the valving I should look for but I couldnt find it.

 

[mightymg]

hahaha maybe some nice seats would do it! Ohh justin wasnt kidding we were flying home from moab, about 100, let me tell you, in front wheel drive only wiht a broken rear ring gear, I was SKEERED< I didnt bail though! HAHAHA

 

[DiscoDino]

1. Progressive springs front and rear
2. dual Fox shocks with reseroirs per corner
3. 4" Fox bump stops
4. Comfy seats

 

[SLC99Disco]

For the air bumps, would you guys set them up to contact the axle in the factory spot where the rubber snubber hits the axle?

 

[maxyedor]

I looked into the Fox bump stops, the bigest issue I found was mounting them. They have a long body, so mounting them between the frame and axel eats up a ton of room. You'd have to mount them on the side of the frame, or madify the rear links to take the abuse and use them. On a trophy truck the bumpstops hit on the swingarm, so with proper modification the rear links would work. The lack of room steered me away from them.

As for running twin shocks on each corner, it can be done, but I think using a 3" instead of 2" body and getting the oversize resevoirs would accomplish the same thing, but a hair cheaper and easier to mount.