Air locker Q's

[DiscoveryXD]

Harnesses are the same

You just need airline to hook-up the air switches from GCR.

cool, thanks Dan. I think i'll just go ahead and look into the air switches. I'm not gonna buy a power tank anytime soon, so i'll just go this route. I have a small break from school starting this week, and i just want to get this setup installed.

 

[BuyRovers]

You will also want to get a pressure release valve to prevent the chance of over pressurizing the lockers. If you head over to powertank.com they sell damn near everything you could want to hook up your lockers.

C-

 

[DiscoveryXD]

cool, thanks! now i just need to stop looking at Dweb and study for my last damn final tomorrow...

 

[Andrew Homan]

XD do the breather update like Muskyman says. I've been battling the same problem now for awhile with my rear locker (front has been fine). I drilled out the stock fitting but it wasn't enough. Now I have to go bigger. Oh well live and learn.

 

[MUSKYMAN]

sorry guys I havent posted the pic I will once I get to the office...you guys will love the cheap fix

 

[peter sherman]

sorry guys I havent posted the pic I will once I get to the office...you guys will love the cheap fix

The fix is only a hardware store away! Combined with 1/4 air line your lockers will be instant.

 

[MUSKYMAN]

ok...here you go

What I did was re-drilled the breathers out and tapped them to 3/8 NPT. Then I installed a elbow that adapts from the 3/8 NPT to a compression fitting and used heavy duty sink/faucet lines in the 72" length for the breathers. The heavy duty style uses a butylene hose instead of the clear plastic crap the normal ones have. so for $13.99 each end you get large diameter really tough breather lines that are much less likely to get plugged. Having wide open breathers makes the ARB's work like they should. The cool thing is you can use these lines and rout the lines to high spots and then connect them to your air box or to a dedicated breather manifold.

 

[DiscoveryXD]

cool, so what size drill bit should i use with the 3/8 npt tap? and how did you get all the shavings out of the axle? long hose on a shop vac?

 

[D Chapman]

Off topic, but what bump stops are you using Thom?

 

[MUSKYMAN]

I used a shop vac as I was drilling and tapping then used a little tube adapter that goes on the shop vac to clean inside...anything left doesent worry me in the least.

the drill bit was a "Q" as I recall I believe its a 35/64ths or barely bigger then 1/2" but I would really have to look in my tap set to make sure.

 

[MUSKYMAN]

Off topic, but what bump stops are you using Thom?

those are white racing jounce shocks...they rock!! they suck up the hard bottom you get when you are really pounding it and they have like zero bounce so you also get rid of that hard rebound that getts you bouncing.

I need to get a install tech written on those, I think they are one of the better upgrades to the suspension. when I am fully loaded booning through terrain at speed they give you so much more control its amazing.

 

[D Chapman]

Thom,
http://discoweb.org/forums/showthread.php?p=481538#post481538post481538

 

[DiscoveryXD]

ok...here you go

What I did was re-drilled the breathers out and tapped them to 3/8 NPT. Then I installed a elbow that adapts from the 3/8 NPT to a compression fitting and used heavy duty sink/faucet lines in the 72" length for the breathers. The heavy duty style uses a butylene hose instead of the clear plastic crap the normal ones have. so for $13.99 each end you get large diameter really tough breather lines that are much less likely to get plugged. Having wide open breathers makes the ARB's work like they should. The cool thing is you can use these lines and rout the lines to high spots and then connect them to your air box or to a dedicated breather manifold.

where did you get all that at thom? I live near a true value and lowes so i think that should do. What size drill bit was it you said? I might get that stuff today or tomorrow so i can do it when i install the gears.

 

[MUSKYMAN]

I bought the heavy duty hoses in the plumbing dept at a ACE hardware

the tap and drill bit I allready owned but all you need to do is get a 3/8" NPT tap and read on the shank what size drill it requires.

any good hardware store should have everything you need.

 

[DiscoveryXD]

ok, cool.

and one last question (just to be sure ) it is ok if I install the diffs and axles this week, then drive around for a few weeks (if that long) without the compressor hooked up? I know the locker won't be engaged since there isn't an air supply, and it should be good as long as i keep the hole sealed nice and tight. right?

i'm still looking into all that i need for the air switches and what not...

 

[MUSKYMAN]

yes...they are just super strong open diffs until the air is hooked up.

 

[DiscoveryXD]

ok, good. Beer's on me if you're ever in Reno:victory:

 

[DiscoveryXD]

I'm gonna work on plumbing my comressor today since I'm off and it's freakin cold outside.

ANy bit's of advice? Little things that i should know and what not... I was told to mount the solenoids upside down so no debris and moisture gets in them, that ok?