Adjustable Panhard Rods
- Thread starter crown14
- Start date
What about adjusting it so that the driveshaft is straight on with the pinion? My RTE panhard is shortened all the way and the axle is still shifted to the passenger side. Shouldn't the pinion be straight on with the transfer case output?
It should Matt but then you're going the other way and really making your truck track like a dog. As far as getting the panhard length right if you just pull it off the truck while it's on level ground, there's your length. The front end should center itself with the springs.
I'm gonna pull the panhard on the frame end and see where the truck settles. If it does settle more towards the drivers side then ill just get rid of the rte and fab up a new one with the old panhard. You bend the DOM over the top of the diff like the rte?
I'm having vibe uses at around 30 mph but the pinion and shaft aren't right on. I'd like to get it zeroed with the driveshaft on a side to side if I can help it
I'm having vibe uses at around 30 mph but the pinion and shaft aren't right on. I'd like to get it zeroed with the driveshaft on a side to side if I can help it
It's a trade off. The only way to completely solve it theoretically is with a double DC shaft and the correct length driveshaft. I don't think your vibe is coming from the front pinion though. It's not off enough to cause that much of a vibe that you would feel it. Mine sure doesn't have a problem there.
It's almost impossible to completely rid these trucks of small vibes after you lift them. I would get the panhard right and go from there.
It's almost impossible to completely rid these trucks of small vibes after you lift them. I would get the panhard right and go from there.
get it on an alignment rack(I like hunters), it can alter thrust angle, set that up with adjustable panhard, then set toe on your HD tie rod(i'm on rovertracks),then center the wheel with your HD adjustable drag link(RTE on mine) and presto, tracks awesome, wet or dry at speed and handles good, which is saying alot
Steve Rupp said:
I disconnected the panhard at the frame end and it barely was off at all. Kinda weird that Rover didn't get that all lined up.....
I've had the RTE corrected radius arms for many years now. Since they offer the corrected swivel balls and pinion corrected arms ill just have to save up for those.
I wonder what's causing the vibes then? The alignment is fine.
If you're using the castor corrected arms and not the pinion corrected arms then your vibe is most likely at the front pinion.
Yeah, they're the castor corrected arms.
I've been tossing the idea around in my head about fabbing up new arms myself, but I think the pinion corrected arms would just be easier.... Regardless, I'm going to get the swivel balls when I can.
Ben, I'm cursed when it comes to the drivetrain on this thing...
I've been tossing the idea around in my head about fabbing up new arms myself, but I think the pinion corrected arms would just be easier.... Regardless, I'm going to get the swivel balls when I can.
Ben, I'm cursed when it comes to the drivetrain on this thing...
Had to bring this one back from the dead. I was doing a little searching for some info and found this thread.. Once again I see people comparing caster vs pinion radius arms.
Can someone explain what the hell they are talking about? As far as I'm aware they are one and the same.
Offset radius arms rotate the axle. It's going to adjust both your caster and pinion. How much obviously depends on the number of degrees you rotate it.
What am I missing? Why do I keep seeing people talking about caster radius arms and pinion radius arms like they are different things?
Can someone explain what the hell they are talking about? As far as I'm aware they are one and the same.
Offset radius arms rotate the axle. It's going to adjust both your caster and pinion. How much obviously depends on the number of degrees you rotate it.
What am I missing? Why do I keep seeing people talking about caster radius arms and pinion radius arms like they are different things?
How did caster get into it?
Never mind.
There are corrected radius arms that may or may not do much for the axle's caster angle, but relieve the stress from the frame-end bushings by having a bend in the arm (typically, gusseted and welded) when the taller-than-stock springs are used.
There are caster-correcting arms that may or may not do much for the bushing, but rotate the axle backwards to regain the proper caster angle. The flip side of it is that they also rotate the front axle pinion further away from the transfer case yoke, forcing you to use DC-jointed front driveshaft.
In either case, whenever the front axle is further away from the frame, the axle is shifted towards the left side of the truck. It isn't that large of a shift for 2-3" of lift, but enough to get your steering wheel cocked to the side - which people (like me) compensate for by adjusting the length of the drag link. As a result, the steering box is off center when the truck moves in a straight line - and being a progressive-rate box, it only can have no play in the dead center.
Using an adjustable-length panhard rod allows you to keep the steering box in the centered position.
Never mind.
There are corrected radius arms that may or may not do much for the axle's caster angle, but relieve the stress from the frame-end bushings by having a bend in the arm (typically, gusseted and welded) when the taller-than-stock springs are used.
There are caster-correcting arms that may or may not do much for the bushing, but rotate the axle backwards to regain the proper caster angle. The flip side of it is that they also rotate the front axle pinion further away from the transfer case yoke, forcing you to use DC-jointed front driveshaft.
In either case, whenever the front axle is further away from the frame, the axle is shifted towards the left side of the truck. It isn't that large of a shift for 2-3" of lift, but enough to get your steering wheel cocked to the side - which people (like me) compensate for by adjusting the length of the drag link. As a result, the steering box is off center when the truck moves in a straight line - and being a progressive-rate box, it only can have no play in the dead center.
Using an adjustable-length panhard rod allows you to keep the steering box in the centered position.
