I went back to look at your original post. From what I could tell, it sounds like the truck was sold to you as having had the head gaskets replaced. Did it come with receipts for the work? If the head gaskets were replaced a long time ago, and not done thoroughly (heads not machined, bolts re-used, for example), then they are probably vulnerable to failure again. If you were told that they were replaced recently and the state of the engine leads you to believe that no such thing has happened, then you have a valid complaint. This is sounding worse and worse and worse.
'99 DII arrived today...broke down 45 minutes later...
- Thread starter dcarr1971
- Start date
Tugela said:
Well, I don't know how long ago they were replaced, but they supplied rec'ts for parts to replace the water pump and head gaskets. It looks to me like the rec'ts probably were for a different truck though. According to the title, these guys bought the truck with 95640 miles on the odometer (10/28/2009) and I bought it with 95648 miles. It had 95652 when the transporter delivered it, and right now it has 95667 as it sits in my driveway today...
Most head gasket leaks on this engine just lets water leak out on the front or rear of the heads. Usually no mixing of oil will happen. Since your water pump is toast you won't be able to perform a coolent pressure test to verify a head gasket leak. Fix the water pump first. Don't bother replacing valve cover gaskets since you may be back in once you get it running and perform a coolent pressure test.
Don't let this get you to frustrated its just a car. We've all been there.
Don't let this get you to frustrated its just a car. We've all been there.
JohnB said:
this, plus you will know then that the issues have been foxed and wont have to worry about it when taking trips, letting the wife drive it ect....
Do the block test, if the truck doesn't pass try to return it. It is one thing to have a leaking head gasket but if it is overheating you have no idea how many times it was overheated before you got it. If the block test fails chances are the engine is toast. Definitely don't put any money into it until you know the block is good.
Hey, one question...I have Threadlocker Blue. The Coolant Flush/Fill section in the RAVE says to use Loctite 577 for the engine block plugs when re-installing them. Obviously I'll have to do this when I change the pump. So is the Loctite 577 equivalent to Threadlocker Blue, or do I need to bite the bullet and chase down some 577 too?
Yep, this is my #1 concern at this point. I need to know that there is a reasonable chance of making it home before I put my kids in this car and drive it somewhere like the OBX of NC (900+ miles round trip).
I contacted Will Tillery and he is shipping out a new water pump and gasket to me tomorrow morning. Hopefully I can get it put on this week and have the truck running by the 4th.
I'd have more parts pulled by now, but I can't get find a wrench to fit the fan clutch nut at any local stores...36mm is too big, and nobody carries a 32mm. (I've tried Advanced Auto, Autozone, Sears, PepBoys, and Harbor Freight.) If push comes to shove, I'll just have to pull the water pump with the pull and fan attached, but I wanted to do this right.
KyleT said:this, plus you will know then that the issues have been foxed and wont have to worry about it when taking trips, letting the wife drive it ect....
Yep, this is my #1 concern at this point. I need to know that there is a reasonable chance of making it home before I put my kids in this car and drive it somewhere like the OBX of NC (900+ miles round trip).
I contacted Will Tillery and he is shipping out a new water pump and gasket to me tomorrow morning. Hopefully I can get it put on this week and have the truck running by the 4th.
I'd have more parts pulled by now, but I can't get find a wrench to fit the fan clutch nut at any local stores...36mm is too big, and nobody carries a 32mm. (I've tried Advanced Auto, Autozone, Sears, PepBoys, and Harbor Freight.) If push comes to shove, I'll just have to pull the water pump with the pull and fan attached, but I wanted to do this right.
You sure it's not a size 36mm? Take another look.
Here's what I got through Amazon website. Great price on each wrench compared to other popular online parts and both worth the money...very sturdy tools. I got an ETA of 3-5 day delivery but it was at my door in two days. Yes you can remove the fan without these but these make it much easier and much faster. Good luck with your truck, I hope it all works out for you.
Cheers
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-41810-F...ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1277699852&sr=1-8
http://www.amazon.com/Schley-61600-...ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1277699852&sr=1-1
Here's what I got through Amazon website. Great price on each wrench compared to other popular online parts and both worth the money...very sturdy tools. I got an ETA of 3-5 day delivery but it was at my door in two days. Yes you can remove the fan without these but these make it much easier and much faster. Good luck with your truck, I hope it all works out for you.
Cheers
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-41810-F...ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1277699852&sr=1-8
http://www.amazon.com/Schley-61600-...ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1277699852&sr=1-1
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Use a large adjustable wrench on the fan clutch. Put it on there and smack it with a hammer a couple of times and the fan will come right off.
RoverDII said:
36mm was close, but definitely not correct...my guess at it being 32mm is based upon things I've seen in out threads on this forum, but 32mm converts to 1.26 inches, and I couldn't get the 1-1/4" or the 1-5/16" to work either. At this point I'm thinking that I'm looking at taking the whole water pump off with the fan attached...
Also, make SURE that you are going in the correct direction to loosen it. Unfortunately, I am speaking from experience.
It should be 36 mm. It is a stock tool for Chevy and Ford fan clutches as well - I got mine off the shelf at Kragen.dcarr1971 said:
The thread on the fan clutch is _right_ - you need to put the wrench on top of the nut, and whack the end of the handle to the left (towards the pass. side).
p m said:
Yep. I managed to get the fan clutch off tonight. It turns out that the tools I got from both Advanced Auto and Autozone were worn to the point that their 36mm wrenches actually measured 38mm and 39mm respectively. My buddy found his set (I hadn't known that he owned a set), and pulling the fan clutch took about another 10 minutes.
The other good news is that I spoke to the dealer and tentatively discussed how to make these problems right since they failed to do any of the work they had claimed to have completed. They were open to several options, the most practical of which is to repair the Rover here in Pgh. I have a friend who is a mechanic that looked the engine over this evening and will be supplying me with a written estimate to fax to them tomorrow. We'll see how that plays out...
Sounds like you are making progress. Working with the dealer and remaining cool is going to work out for you. Even though you are taking the brunt of the inconvenience and frustration, remaining cool is going to work for you in the end.
First thing is to get your truck fixed - then deal with the aftermath.
Keep posting questions - you will get them answered here, and come the end of the day it's just a car and it will get fixed.
First thing is to get your truck fixed - then deal with the aftermath.
Keep posting questions - you will get them answered here, and come the end of the day it's just a car and it will get fixed.
KyleT said:
OK. Will do. Any specific type of Right Stuff? The Permatex site has several variants that might be suitable from what I can see...their RTV products came up along with Right Stuff. I've actually got a tube of the Permatex RTV Blue (it is sensor safe, and good to 500 degrees), but want to make sure I'm doing this right.
Would you suggest getting the the RTV water pump and T-stat sealer for the bolts on the water pump too?
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OK. My mechanic friend has backed out on giving me a written estimate. He determined that it was just going to be too big of a job for his shop to handle when he realized that his estimate was getting into the $2500+ range.
At the recommendation of Rob (nosivad_bor) and a couple members of the Ft. Pitt Land Rover Group, I've contacted the guys at Richlin Imports. They're taking a look at my pictures and want me to drive the Rover out there if possible once I have the water pump back on it. (I figure I have to do the water pump no matter what...as things are, it wasn't going to make it under it's own power.)
Someone pointed out yesterday (either here or over on LandRoversOnly.com) that the Lemon Law might apply. I looked into it and I think it might, but if so I only have until roughly 7/10 to make a claim, so I'm feeling pressed for time to get some estimated repair numbers together and over to the dealer.
That said, the water pump and gasket from Will Tillery showed up via UPS (Thanks Will!) and I'll be putting it on this afternoon/evening. If everything goes as planned, I'll try to drive it out to Richlin tomorrow.
At the recommendation of Rob (nosivad_bor) and a couple members of the Ft. Pitt Land Rover Group, I've contacted the guys at Richlin Imports. They're taking a look at my pictures and want me to drive the Rover out there if possible once I have the water pump back on it. (I figure I have to do the water pump no matter what...as things are, it wasn't going to make it under it's own power.)
Someone pointed out yesterday (either here or over on LandRoversOnly.com) that the Lemon Law might apply. I looked into it and I think it might, but if so I only have until roughly 7/10 to make a claim, so I'm feeling pressed for time to get some estimated repair numbers together and over to the dealer.
That said, the water pump and gasket from Will Tillery showed up via UPS (Thanks Will!) and I'll be putting it on this afternoon/evening. If everything goes as planned, I'll try to drive it out to Richlin tomorrow.
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And what does the dealership that sold you this problematic truck have to say?
http://www.RoverClassic.com
Surely they must understand that this fiasco cannot be good for their reputation....
http://www.RoverClassic.com
Surely they must understand that this fiasco cannot be good for their reputation....
Blue said:
In all honesty they haven't been too hard to deal with thus far except for the fact that they lied about what work had been done to the vehicle. They sold me a vehicle that was supposedly repaired, but those repairs had never been completed.
At this point, they've told me to get an estimate and fax it over to them so that we can talk about a resolution. (Tough to do when the truck can't be driven, but it will hopefully be ready to start later tonight.)
I should note that they never offered any type of warranty, but based upon the NY Lemon Law, they were required to do so since the truck has less than 100k miles.
I'm just hoping this is all moot and they take care of the problems so I can move on with my Rover.