95 RRC starting issue any ideas?

T

tomelroy

Well-known member
Dec 1, 2005
189
1
Morgan, UT
sometimes it fires right up sometimes is just turns over....sometimes will fire if you add a bit of gas....tps???

tested pressure on the rail. raises to 40 when the key is turned on and runs near 30 at idle.
probably not fuel pump or clogged filter.

have not driven alot in years but does seem to get worse when hot... fuel temp sensor??/ ..coolant temp sensor????

any ideas before i head to the dealer???

i sure wish it was obd2....
 
L

lrcb40

Guest
Yeah, I had the same thing. It's the slippery slope down to a failed ignition amp. Mine failed after I put up with it for a few months! I have a new(ish) one and a coil too you can have for a reasonable cost. It's only done a few months operation and the truck's being parted out due to rust.

PM if interested
 
K

kevin-ct

Well-known member
Mar 17, 2006
79
0
tomelroy said:
sometimes it fires right up sometimes is just turns over....sometimes will fire if you add a bit of gas....tps???

tested pressure on the rail. raises to 40 when the key is turned on and runs near 30 at idle.
probably not fuel pump or clogged filter.

have not driven alot in years but does seem to get worse when hot... fuel temp sensor??/ ..coolant temp sensor????

any ideas before i head to the dealer???

i sure wish it was obd2....
Click to expand...


What was the hold pressure? The hold pressure is when you turn off the engine and let it sit for an hour, it should stay up around 30 psi. So, there's fuel pressure when starting. If it drops it may need a fuel pump or a injector (one of them maybe leaking)
 
Last edited:
j_button

j_button

Well-known member
Apr 25, 2004
64
0
Dallas, TX
We fixed a starting problem with a genuine coil. She had bought one from NAPA and it was not hot enough. It made a wimpy little spark. As PT suggests if you replace all that, I'm sure it will work. Now, can you reduce the list a little to save money? Probably but hard to pick what to try first.....
 
5

57loboy

Well-known member
Oct 17, 2007
913
4
Fairfield County, CT
I had a similar issue that began this way and led down a long and messy path, ultimately leading to a new cap, rotor, module, coil and finally interia switch. The rough idle was finally solved 2 weeks ago when the 14 year old alternator died on the way into work. If the whole ignition system isn't in top-notch condition, it's amazing the troubles one can have!
 
L

lrcb40

Guest
But I still say it's the ignition amp..........and I got one over on PT :cool: (OK it was my ONLY one).......:smilelol:
 
pdxrovermech

pdxrovermech

Well-known member
Jul 3, 2009
1,807
57
Portland, OR
be sure not to use the cheap aftermarket cap and rotor. Like PT said, we've fixed many vehicles that had nothing more than a junk cap and rotor.
 
J

jrw9383

Well-known member
Jun 14, 2006
88
0
Thought I might piggy back on this one. My Rover wont start. When I pull the coil wire and jump a spark to the fender, there is one spark at initial crank; but nothing while cranking after that.

I changed the coil to an Accel Super Stack and noticed that the one spark that jumps is much stronger.

Wires/plugs are ~4,000 miles old and the cap/rotor look very good, but don't know how old they are. Since I am getting the initial spark, I think I am dealing with a distributor/ign amp problem.

Am I right?


Tks-
Joseph
 
T

tomelroy

Well-known member
Dec 1, 2005
189
1
Morgan, UT
replaced cap/rotor/plugs and wires... plugs were wet and fouled, got rover to start, but only by holding trottle open.

what next?

is there a way to check the advance on the distributor? i am suspecting mine is not functioning. I tried sucking on the vacuum line from the manifold and nothing seemed to happen, i was just sucking air.
 
J

jims95

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
203
1
Upland, California
Check your fuel pressure after you turn off the engine. If it starts dropping immediately, you have one or more leaking fuel injectors ("plugs were wet and fouled").

When I had this problem with the three leaking fuel injectors years ago, the engine would start up right away in the morning (engine cold). If I stopped for ten minutes and got back in to re-start (engine warm), I had to floor the throttle pedal and crank a few times to get it started. When It finally started, you could smell gas.

I purchased a new set of injectors from Five-O Motorsports and the problem went away.
 
eliaschristeas

eliaschristeas

Well-known member
Jul 6, 2006
2,442
5
Beverly HIlls
a dead vac advance wont stop you from running.... a master tech friend recently gave some advice: install and connect the battery backwards. turn the key. whatever smokes first is what needs to be changed.




he was kidding DONT do that.


if you've just done the tune up stuff, you may want to consider a timing issue, bad alternator or bad pick up in the dizzy. maybe MAF maybe TPS. either way i have spares on everything if in fact you need it. do you have a multi meter? do you smell fuel in the exhaust or is it just fouled from not starting well enough to burn everything?

....and dont you start mr schram or ill send you my mom's dead pick up which i have bronzed and turned into a plaque that i will send you for such occasions!

btw those fuel/water senders are cheap enough that you should include them in your regular tune up routine then keep a set for trail spares.
 
Last edited:
T

tomelroy

Well-known member
Dec 1, 2005
189
1
Morgan, UT
all of the plugs looked the same...wet and fouled..if the tps is out of wack will it cause all of the injectors to leak or add to much fuel on start up? I will try to clean the mas next.
 
eliaschristeas

eliaschristeas

Well-known member
Jul 6, 2006
2,442
5
Beverly HIlls
sometimes it helps to think how carburated engines worked... whats the goal there? mix air and fuel so it flows to privide continuous resource to the combustion chamber.

now replace with fuel injection. you have a Mr know it all computer sending the combustion chamber exactly what it needs. how does it know?

the TPS is connected to the butterfly in the throttle boddy, it is one of the sensors that communicates via angle/voltage output and the ECU then "knows" how to keep fuel flow appropriately. so i understand it.

i havent known a tps to kill a running motor through leaky injectors in my experience. i have seen them make trucks run like balls - like a misfire - but not die.

others who know more will probably chime in.
 
T

tomelroy

Well-known member
Dec 1, 2005
189
1
Morgan, UT
fuel pressure is @ 36 psi when i stop cranking, after 20 min @30 psi.

I got it started drove 4 miles, stopped engine, restarted engine a few times and parked over night. Next morning it would not start. Removed new plugs after only 4 mile drive and they were fouled and wet. Bead blasted plugs and blew out each cylinder with compressed air, installed plugs, removed injector fuse and fuel pump fuse and tried to start..nothing.. replaced fuses while cranking and nothing. Checked compression with cold engine ~125 psi on each cylinder cold. Next step replace coil?...dont know what else to do..I am getting fuel & spark....but maybe the spark is not hot enough.
 
O

osiristheclown

Well-known member
Aug 16, 2009
337
0
Check the coil per the manual with an ohm meter. You are getting spark so the pickup coil is working as well as the coil. The "amplifier" does what?

Think!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom