I don’t even remember what it looked like now, but I remember pulling some out of a 92 (?), it was just sopping wet.
1992 RRC SWB - deeper into the LR rabbit hole
- Thread starter discomeans
- Start date
I don’t even remember what it looked like now, but I remember pulling some out of a 92 (?), it was just sopping wet.
This 92 had foam underneath, not horsehair, but same net effect for sure.
Here's some notes from my pickup and first couple days living with it.
On TDIs and alternators:
This engine had been a Defender engine and so had the 85A alternator. At the end of the test drive, when decelerating I would occasionally see the battery light come on, and checking the voltage was a little on the lower side than I'd like at idle. We called an audible and swapped with a brand new 100A from another engine in the shop. No more issue, although that turned into a funny problem we spent a couple hours chasing down...
The way the 300TDi is laid out is really around RHD vehicles. On LHD, the steering box sits under the alternator. There's the end of a bolt that is at the top of the steering box that has very little clearance to the alt. Jake had already shimmed the motor mount to provide clearance for the 85A, but when we put the 100A in the casing clearance was small enough that on engine turnover and driving over bumps would cause a knock when the alt would hit the bolt.
It sounded a lot more like a suspension issue which led us down some rabbit holes (and resulting in me getting some new poly bushings on my sway bar links so not horrible). Thankfully once we realized the root cause, we were able to grind down a small amount on the alt to eliminate the issue.
Some initial thoughts after driving it around:
It's slow (duh) but not super slow, and I've yet to see any dark exhaust come out, which is a plus. Driving around these diesel automatics require learning the throttle and transmission shift points which takes a couple of days of driving to get used to, but I enjoy it. It wants to shift a little after 2k RPM.
Going from the BW to the LT230 has been fine in terms of road noise. There's some gear noise that's audible at low speeds/deceleration but nothing like the whine I was used to in the D1. What's really nice in terms of noise is AC. I don't have to have the windows down and can kick on the AC for a bit to cool down and reduce overall cabin noise at speed (it does really suck power and increase engine heat though - see below).
Heat is the one thing I'll need to really keep an eye on, being in FL. We decided to go with a 180W electric fan set up this time that runs automatically with a manual on-off override. Driving home in 88F ambient at 60mph with the AC on I started to see the temp needle tick a little right of center, so I turned off the AC and backed down to 55mph, and it slowly went back to normal. Later in drive, at 65mph with no AC, I started to see the needle move to the center again. (Normally it should live slightly left of center). It's a diesel so I don't see myself ever going above 65 anyway, so just learning the limits.
What's nice is that the fan is wired to have power when ignition is off, so when turning the engine off, the fan will still run for a few min to cool it down like a modern vehicle.
Also I'm getting a good bit of radiant heat coming from behind the window switches/parking brake in the center console. I think it was doing this before I may finally remove the center console and put in the same heat insulation layers I did on the rest of the floor. I've always had an issue where the window switches can feel hot.
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I had that issue with my 90 SWB. I didn’t have it with my 94 LWB.
3 month follow up:
The alternator I left the shop with started giving me problems. The battery light would come on and increase with engine RPMs, rather than decrease, but it didn't seem to be much of a problem - a multimeter on the battery was showing well over 14V when I tested it (now as I'm typing this, I realized I had just measured it at idle, and didn't try under load).
Anyway, it did start having an effect on the battery charge so I ended up swapping it out with a Hella unit (after grinding down the casing to clear the steering rack bolt) and for good measure put a new Optima Yellowtop in as well. The one in there was at least from 2018, if I'm reading the battery date code properly. All solved.
Based on a recommendation from a coworker I got some Rislone Hy-per Cool coolant additive. I'm not running straight water so I know it won't make a huge difference, but every little bit helps in FL. I feel like it does reach operating temp slightly faster, which others have reported. I'm curious to see how it performs on a longer drive with the A/C on.
I've purchased an Engine Guardian - basically an external engine temp monitor and alarm - and plan to wire it in soon. It has a sensor that sits on the block, and optionally I can use a coolant sensor as well.
Rear seats have been removed and I'm working on an arrangement that will be both safe and comfy for the doggo. Only con to losing the seats is it's harder for him to put his nose out the window
I wish I could have the rears roll down further than halfway.
The alternator I left the shop with started giving me problems. The battery light would come on and increase with engine RPMs, rather than decrease, but it didn't seem to be much of a problem - a multimeter on the battery was showing well over 14V when I tested it (now as I'm typing this, I realized I had just measured it at idle, and didn't try under load).
Anyway, it did start having an effect on the battery charge so I ended up swapping it out with a Hella unit (after grinding down the casing to clear the steering rack bolt) and for good measure put a new Optima Yellowtop in as well. The one in there was at least from 2018, if I'm reading the battery date code properly. All solved.
Based on a recommendation from a coworker I got some Rislone Hy-per Cool coolant additive. I'm not running straight water so I know it won't make a huge difference, but every little bit helps in FL. I feel like it does reach operating temp slightly faster, which others have reported. I'm curious to see how it performs on a longer drive with the A/C on.
I've purchased an Engine Guardian - basically an external engine temp monitor and alarm - and plan to wire it in soon. It has a sensor that sits on the block, and optionally I can use a coolant sensor as well.
Rear seats have been removed and I'm working on an arrangement that will be both safe and comfy for the doggo. Only con to losing the seats is it's harder for him to put his nose out the window
I wish I could have the rears roll down further than halfway.
This was the smallest for us! He does like leaning on the halfway window in the RRC and D1! Cleanup in aisle 6 though afterwards!
The dogs are smarter than we think. My Airedale has not yet attempted to jump out of the window.
“The dogs are smarter than we think.”
I recently started taking my 60 pound lab mix on drives with the rear windows down in a D1. I don’t know what she is mixed with but is all muscle, like a race horse. She is insanely strong and fast.
It took her a few trips to figure it all out. She doesn’t try to jump out the window even when she sees other animals… she is really good at chasing down and killing chipmunks ( bringing them to my wife) and almost nothing can stop her when she sees a deer. We have seen a lot of wildlife on our drives but never has she tried to jump out and get them which was my primary concern.
She has also learned to balance by wedging her head in the window corner or when not admiring natures sights and smells, she wedges her head between the console and driver seat.
I recently started taking my 60 pound lab mix on drives with the rear windows down in a D1. I don’t know what she is mixed with but is all muscle, like a race horse. She is insanely strong and fast.
It took her a few trips to figure it all out. She doesn’t try to jump out the window even when she sees other animals… she is really good at chasing down and killing chipmunks ( bringing them to my wife) and almost nothing can stop her when she sees a deer. We have seen a lot of wildlife on our drives but never has she tried to jump out and get them which was my primary concern.
She has also learned to balance by wedging her head in the window corner or when not admiring natures sights and smells, she wedges her head between the console and driver seat.
When we had the D1 in 2021, my dog once jumped out when my wife was taking him to the park. As far as we can tell, that's the only time he even attempted to do so.
I purchased one of these recently to buckle him in so he still has the possibility to move around some, but he's secured in the event of sudden braking or if he tried to jump out again. In the Subaru, we have one of those dog hammocks in the back instead.
I purchased one of these recently to buckle him in so he still has the possibility to move around some, but he's secured in the event of sudden braking or if he tried to jump out again. In the Subaru, we have one of those dog hammocks in the back instead.
Quick update - after some thinking I’ve sprung for a Madman EMS3. It hopefully will arrive this weekend.
I’ve never installed a gauge before… any recommendations on how best to route the sensor wires through the firewall?
I was watching this video and I’m thinking of running the harness through the firewall and setting up a terminal block in the engine bay since I won’t be connecting all the sensors at once.
Edit: well I guess this tape was here for a reason! Should be easy enough. I have grommets, wire sleeving, waterproof box, strain relievers and terminal block on order
I’ve never installed a gauge before… any recommendations on how best to route the sensor wires through the firewall?
I was watching this video and I’m thinking of running the harness through the firewall and setting up a terminal block in the engine bay since I won’t be connecting all the sensors at once.
Edit: well I guess this tape was here for a reason! Should be easy enough. I have grommets, wire sleeving, waterproof box, strain relievers and terminal block on order
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As much as I like electric fans, I think slow 4x4s benefit from strong mechanical fans in addition to electric fans. If you're heating up at speed a fan won't make a difference though. Coolant capacity is a big factor at any speed.
I don't have much experience with diesel Rovers, but I have had good luck with large aluminum radiators in gas powered offroaders. I run aluminum radiators in 2 race Jeeps and, knock on wood, have never overheated running hard in central Florida sand for hours on end. I just installed a 3 (maybe 4? I'd have to check) core ebay unit in my RRC with a built 4.6. I have run it around a few hundred miles now and the temp gauge is always a little to the left of center. I had a similar pleasant experience in a D1 around 5 years ago. I know people swear by the copper radiators, but aluminum has been good to me. The V8s aren't working half as hard as the diesels at cruising speed though, so your results may vary. At the cost of a few hundred bucks it could be worth testing.
Yep, have AL radiators in the ‘96D1 and ‘94LWB. Was told by one shop if I drove the Rangie in the Winter block the radiator as it wouldn’t get warm! It hibernates so no big deal yet shows the efficiency. The D1 runs nice and cool.
Growing up in Florida I never really account for machines being too cold. I recently installed aftermarket oil and transmission coolers on my RRC though, and it may see some winter wheeling in north Georgia. The coolers are no longer routed through the radiator, so I may have to consider blocking them if it gets super cold up there.
On my 96 D1 I started having issues with it heating up too much on long uphill drives. I would have to pullover and let it idle to get it too cool down. I thought the radiator was bad because I assumed going 45-50 MPH would move enough air with not much of any fan assistance.
Well, I was wrong. The fan clutch was bad. New fan clutch and it now probably runs too cool at times. It wasn’t a minor difference, it was a 40 degree drop during the same uphill long drive.
Well, I was wrong. The fan clutch was bad. New fan clutch and it now probably runs too cool at times. It wasn’t a minor difference, it was a 40 degree drop during the same uphill long drive.
When we lived in Switzerland on occasion I would take the Rangie on the side roads before the snow removal crews were out. The B-W transfer box worked great sending the power back and forth. Really was impressive on how well it drove.
When we got our ‘96 D1 one of the first things was to renew the entire cooling system. Hoses, thermostat, radiator, fan clutch, and temperature sensor. Never had a cooling problem with it.
A little update: I have the MADMAN wired up for EGT, coolant level, and temp. I couldn't seem to break loose the original coolant sensor on the side of the thermostat housing, so I'm plugged into the head temp sensor location.
I have in hand something interesting - the Fourby Twin Inlet manifold. While I haven't invested in anything like boost pins yet to increase performance - and I may not do that so I don't have to fiddle too much with fueling, timing, etc - I was very intrigued by this because it's simple and doesn't involve tuning. Basically, they realized that the airflow across the intake manifold is super asymmetrical, at least on the bench. So they've blanked off the original inlet and welded two new inlets equidistant from the cylinders. The reviews indicate it improves responsiveness and "driveability", decreases smoke, and even quiets the engine down a bit.
Since this is an easy-to-swap and lower risk mod, I decided to give it a shot. If it helps improve around-town driving and throttle responsiveness, it'll be a win.
Check out these vids:
(this shows airflow measurements on the bench, skip about 50s in)
(skip to 32m in for drive test)
It'll go on this weekend and I'll tool around town with it, report back with feedback.
I have in hand something interesting - the Fourby Twin Inlet manifold. While I haven't invested in anything like boost pins yet to increase performance - and I may not do that so I don't have to fiddle too much with fueling, timing, etc - I was very intrigued by this because it's simple and doesn't involve tuning. Basically, they realized that the airflow across the intake manifold is super asymmetrical, at least on the bench. So they've blanked off the original inlet and welded two new inlets equidistant from the cylinders. The reviews indicate it improves responsiveness and "driveability", decreases smoke, and even quiets the engine down a bit.
Since this is an easy-to-swap and lower risk mod, I decided to give it a shot. If it helps improve around-town driving and throttle responsiveness, it'll be a win.
Check out these vids:
It'll go on this weekend and I'll tool around town with it, report back with feedback.
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Quick evening update: this is pretty cool.
Removing the old manifold and putting this on was easy - the worst part was fitting the right hose between the intercooler and the aluminum extension pipe. Once I was able to force that on, I took it for a quick spin in the neighborhood.
It's no Miata, but it's definitely improved the driving experience in my short test drive. Whatever power there is is more accessible. When the engine's cold, there's a small incline leaving my neighborhood where normally the 300Tdi keeps the auto trans in a lower gear higher than I'm sure my neighbors would like (that is to say, it's annoyingly loud). This evening, it upshifted while going up that incline, which was noticeably unusual. The engine just felt a little 'freer', if that makes sense.
Turning on A/C is a huge power draw on this, and I played with that a minute... that felt like a little less of a drag, too. But there's a huge subjectivity to this and I acknowledge the "butt dyno" is not scientific. I plan on running a bunch of errands around town this weekend to put it through its paces.
Removing the old manifold and putting this on was easy - the worst part was fitting the right hose between the intercooler and the aluminum extension pipe. Once I was able to force that on, I took it for a quick spin in the neighborhood.
It's no Miata, but it's definitely improved the driving experience in my short test drive. Whatever power there is is more accessible. When the engine's cold, there's a small incline leaving my neighborhood where normally the 300Tdi keeps the auto trans in a lower gear higher than I'm sure my neighbors would like (that is to say, it's annoyingly loud). This evening, it upshifted while going up that incline, which was noticeably unusual. The engine just felt a little 'freer', if that makes sense.
Turning on A/C is a huge power draw on this, and I played with that a minute... that felt like a little less of a drag, too. But there's a huge subjectivity to this and I acknowledge the "butt dyno" is not scientific. I plan on running a bunch of errands around town this weekend to put it through its paces.
Got a Southdown snorkel (I think one of the last in stock from LK8) and I’m stressing about making the bodywork cut lol. All I have is this D1 template that I think is also good for a RRC but it doesn’t line up super well.
Still, I’d like to get this done tonight so I can try it out on a short road trip to the coast tomorrow…
Still, I’d like to get this done tonight so I can try it out on a short road trip to the coast tomorrow…
You can probably wrap a sheet of paper around the downpipe and trace it on the cowl.
Measure 3 times, cut one million small times… after marking, I drilled perforation holes with a small drillbit, and then kept having to enbiggen the hole with a Dremel. It actually sits really snug, so I’m gonna have to cut the whole larger, and then line the edge (I was recommended 1/4” fuel line) so it won’t chafe.
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