04 D2 locked on 35's

[seventyfive]

from the rest of us running 36's on a D2, watts (wether rte or not) will be the last of your worries.

 

[achapman]

from the rest of us running 36's on a D2, watts (wether rte or not) will be the last of your worries.

What else should I be worried about?

 

[leeawalden]

Yeah it looks like I might switch them out sooner than later.

Which shocks are you planning on going with?

not that you asked me but

fox 2.0 remote res. I love them.

 

[achapman]

not that you asked me but

fox 2.0 remote res. I love them.

What travel length did you go with?

 

[KyleT]

did you trim the rear doors bu cutting the metal off, or did you notch it then just bend the pieces inwards???

 

[wheelen disco]

10" rear 12" front with custom +4" shock towers.

 

[Mongo]

What else should I be worried about?

knuckles...

 

[achapman]

did you trim the rear doors bu cutting the metal off, or did you notch it then just bend the pieces inwards???

I followed Sunnie's guide. Notched it, put a 1/2x1/2x1 stip of angle aluminum, filled in with black silicone, and riveted it all together.

knuckles...

I'm having keith(rovertracks) make me a high clearance heavy duty bar and the drag link with tabs. Anything else I should get?

 

[leeawalden]

I have 10" in the front and 10" in the rear, RTE 3" progressives with DI rear seats and 1" spacers. 11" would be about right.

 

[Mongo]

the knuckles are the weak point, it's mainly why I went with a Toy axle. Keith shit is bombproof, but it does nothing for the knuckles as the ball joints just ain't up to snuff...could last forever, or break on some hard shit

 

[achapman]

the knuckles are the weak point, it's mainly why I went with a Toy axle. Keith shit is bombproof, but it does nothing for the knuckles as the ball joints just ain't up to snuff...could last forever, or break on some hard shit

Gotcha. Guess there is nothing I can do until I follow in your footsteps and swap to toys.

 

[seventyfive]

What else should I be worried about?

i worded it wrong, what i meant was the watts linkage isn't going to help much. the rte watts is definitely needed just so you can lift it over 4".
as far as being able to actually 'use' the lift you are going to have to add a panhard, 3 link, or 4 link and get rid of the watts. the watts will limit the rear axle flex. with my set up i can only lift one rear tire about a foot and a half before it starts lifting the other wheel off the ground. the watts design is to keep the axle parallel to the body, which is why a lot of muscle car guys use it for their cars.
once you move the exhaust and evap box you have some decent room for frame tabs, for a 4 link.