Photos of Castor Corrected Swivel?
- Thread starter Ian95rrc
- Start date
here's one,
i've got a tech article that goes with it but it's not quite done yet.
best $300 i ever spent...
i've got a tech article that goes with it but it's not quite done yet.
best $300 i ever spent...
Last edited:
Marc, are all bolt holes elongated? I see one that is not, but there seems to be more holes than I remember. If that's all there is, I could probably do mine. Just wondering if there's enough clamping between the swivel housing and axle to prevent it from creeping around.
PM
yes, all but one hole it slotted/ elongated
the hole that isn't slotted is indexed for the proper degree change, drilled larger and plugged. this hole keeps the ball from rotating while you tighten down the ball to the axle housing. once all the bolts are tightened, there is little chance of the thing rotating.
mine have yet to loosen and i check it periodically.
as far as doing it yourself, i do know that these things are hard as hell so unless your planning on doing it on a milling machine with an indexing table it might be difficult to keep consistant and circular.
this correction what for 4 degrees, brought me from -.5 to +3.5.
and it tracks like a tank.
i can let go if my steering wheel at 90mph and not fear sudden death....
yes, all but one hole it slotted/ elongated
the hole that isn't slotted is indexed for the proper degree change, drilled larger and plugged. this hole keeps the ball from rotating while you tighten down the ball to the axle housing. once all the bolts are tightened, there is little chance of the thing rotating.
mine have yet to loosen and i check it periodically.
as far as doing it yourself, i do know that these things are hard as hell so unless your planning on doing it on a milling machine with an indexing table it might be difficult to keep consistant and circular.
this correction what for 4 degrees, brought me from -.5 to +3.5.
and it tracks like a tank.
i can let go if my steering wheel at 90mph and not fear sudden death....
yes, that would be one heck (or hack) of a job to do it with a dremel tool
I think I could find a shop that would do it for me, it's not that difficult with the right machine. Also, I'd think a bit could be made from steel that fills the empty part of the hole - once the bolt is in, it wouldn't go anywhere. Basically, you could even build up material with a welder in one hole - don't need a lot, so you wouldn't ruin any heat treatment.
I think I could find a shop that would do it for me, it's not that difficult with the right machine. Also, I'd think a bit could be made from steel that fills the empty part of the hole - once the bolt is in, it wouldn't go anywhere. Basically, you could even build up material with a welder in one hole - don't need a lot, so you wouldn't ruin any heat treatment.
i thought RTE stopped doing the swivel ball drilling?
is there anyone out there that is experienced at this? knowing where to redrill that hole would be based on how much lift you have. i dont know that formula. is it easy to figure it out? I rekon it's just a trig problem.
rob
is there anyone out there that is experienced at this? knowing where to redrill that hole would be based on how much lift you have. i dont know that formula. is it easy to figure it out? I rekon it's just a trig problem.
rob
D
D Chapman
Guest
roughly, the required caster correction would be 180/3.1416*amount of lift/length of the trailing arm (sin(x)~x for small x).
RTE, true, I specifically remember then officially stop doing it when john was running it. i suppose i can call up when i am ready.
rd
rd
Rob,
yeah (RTE) John started doing this way back but stopped.
Steve did say that he didn't want to start advertising until he had had some sucess w/ a few of us first. he also just aquired a machine to make the process much easier.
this means of castor correction is nothing new to rovers, the aussies have been doing it for years. and IIRC i can remember John (RTE) and Kyle posting about it years back. it's in the archives somewhere.
all i can say is it is slick....
yeah (RTE) John started doing this way back but stopped.
Steve did say that he didn't want to start advertising until he had had some sucess w/ a few of us first. he also just aquired a machine to make the process much easier.
this means of castor correction is nothing new to rovers, the aussies have been doing it for years. and IIRC i can remember John (RTE) and Kyle posting about it years back. it's in the archives somewhere.
all i can say is it is slick....
yeah, it's always made sense to me. hell i remember talking to john about it back in the day and figuring out how to do it best. i see this method working but i dont like the fact that all but one hole is slotted. I have had a swivel ball come loose before and if it had this kind of extra play in it i dont know what would happen. the idea i always wanted to see was someone finding a source for blank swivel ball flanges and milling the holes on location. that would be sweet, the other option i'd like would be to have two holes plugged so there is no way to rotate.
edit, it makes sense now, with only one hole relocated you can pivot the ball to dial in the castor perfectly and one ball can be redone used for a variety of lifts. i like it. i like it a lot....
rd
edit, it makes sense now, with only one hole relocated you can pivot the ball to dial in the castor perfectly and one ball can be redone used for a variety of lifts. i like it. i like it a lot....
rd
nosivad_bor said:
now you're getting it.
the force it strong within you, my young padawan...
(sorry, my Star Wars nerd is showing again
)
the other option (with slotted holes) could be to line up the swivel housing and axle to achieve the required caster, mark the spots, drill 1/4 dia, 1/8" deep holes in both swivel and axle housing flanges, and drop a 1/4" dia steel ball between them.
yeah a dowel pin would work too but i think it's all over kill.
w/ a little locktite i have yet to see mine loosen and i use the crap out of it...
remember that the plugged (not slotted) hole will keep the ball stationary.
once the bolt is in the plugged hole they don't rotate.
by plugged, i mean the hole that was oversized and had a plug pressed into and redrilled.
so in the photo it's the hole that is not slotted.
the hole at the 6 o'clock position
w/ a little locktite i have yet to see mine loosen and i use the crap out of it...
remember that the plugged (not slotted) hole will keep the ball stationary.
once the bolt is in the plugged hole they don't rotate.
by plugged, i mean the hole that was oversized and had a plug pressed into and redrilled.
so in the photo it's the hole that is not slotted.
the hole at the 6 o'clock position
My buddie with his D-90 approached this in a siilar manner
Except he cut,rotatedand sleeved the entire knucke to get to the correct castor...he then lopped off the diff casings and replaced i with cast iron sewer cap...its suspended by custom would eibach springs and fox racing shocks with remote resevoirs....it rides better than a stock 90,Also has front radius arms on the rears...no vibes no wander and his tires are taller than y 235x85x16 by probably 2 inches or more...No DC joints and to be honest probably the route I will take once I get enough time from work to do it...
M,
Except he cut,rotatedand sleeved the entire knucke to get to the correct castor...he then lopped off the diff casings and replaced i with cast iron sewer cap...its suspended by custom would eibach springs and fox racing shocks with remote resevoirs....it rides better than a stock 90,Also has front radius arms on the rears...no vibes no wander and his tires are taller than y 235x85x16 by probably 2 inches or more...No DC joints and to be honest probably the route I will take once I get enough time from work to do it...
M,
one could also make up a steel insert with the correctly drilled hole location and place it into a peanut slotted hole. have it maybe .005 undersize so it slips in.
it would also limit any potential rotation to a reasonalbe amount.
it would also limit any potential rotation to a reasonalbe amount.
My bud bulit a jig on a piece of Ibeam
with which he was able to cut, rotate and reweld the knuckles without anthing being outta whack...
He's kinda like a Maguyver dude when it comes to reworking stuff...you oughta see his beetle....lambo style doors and a 2.2 turbo pinto motor rear mounted...a powerfull beast for sure...
M,
with which he was able to cut, rotate and reweld the knuckles without anthing being outta whack...
He's kinda like a Maguyver dude when it comes to reworking stuff...you oughta see his beetle....lambo style doors and a 2.2 turbo pinto motor rear mounted...a powerfull beast for sure...
M,