My condensor fan is not coming on until the engine temp is around 200* and that doesn't happen often. It is coming on but shouldn't it be coming on around 100*? What could be causing this? Where to check?
Thanks,
Mike
Thanks,
Mike
condensor fan question
- Thread starter flyfisher11
- Start date
WILL.TILLERY said:
Yep I got that part but RAVE actually says that the OAT has to be above 82*F and speed below 80km. Hell it hardly ever gets that hot up here in the mountains. I think that explains it. As far as I can see the ATC ECU gets that temp from the same temp probe that gives the OAT on the control head in the truck. Hmmmm Wonder if there is a way to interupt that signal and kick it on at a lower temp or manually.
Okay after reading everything you ever wanted to know about DII AND DI air conditioning in RAVE I have discovered my answer. The DI automatically turns on the fans when the AC is selected. On the other hand the DII uses the Ambient temp sensor attached to the front of the condenser fan to tell the ATC ECU to turn the fan on when the temp sensed at the front of the fan is above 82* F and speed is below 80kph. The fan is cut back off when that temp drops below 77*. This has always been a mystery to me due to being fooled by the DI's I wheel with. I also wondered why when the outside air was cool but wheeling with the AC on auto I could get the fan to come on occasionally. This is due to the slow speed on the trail the heat around the condenser fan could swell up from around the radiator, motor, etc enough to fool the ambient temp sensor into thinking the temp is above 82* thus kicking on the fan. Okee dokee now. Condenser fan operation 101.
Enjoy,
Mike
Enjoy,
Mike
flyfisher11 said:
So does that mean your AC condenser fans are woking as designed? FYI -80 kph is just under 50mph, incase somone comes up with this page after a search.
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CandiMan said:
Yes I know what 80kph is. That is what RAVE says and it makes sense since the airflow alone at such speed would be enough to keep things cool. And yes my fan is working just fine for a DII. It is just different from the DIs
Thought I'd revisit this thread I started awhile back do to interest sparked in another DII cooling thread.
Shortly after finding this info out that I discovered above I decided I wanted better control over the condenser fan. I got another plug with about a foot of the original wires still attached from Marty aka Drillbit. I then installed an electric fan controller with a manual override switch and an isolator switch. The controller has an adjustable potentiometer which allows adjustment of the auto on function via temperature. So under normal conditions the condenser fan is set to kick on at 195~198*. I can use the manual override switch to kick it on at any temp and use the isolator switch to kick it off at any temp (i.e. water crossings). So far I am pleased with this operation. I like it much much better than the way the OEM setup is programmed.
Cheers,
Mike
Shortly after finding this info out that I discovered above I decided I wanted better control over the condenser fan. I got another plug with about a foot of the original wires still attached from Marty aka Drillbit. I then installed an electric fan controller with a manual override switch and an isolator switch. The controller has an adjustable potentiometer which allows adjustment of the auto on function via temperature. So under normal conditions the condenser fan is set to kick on at 195~198*. I can use the manual override switch to kick it on at any temp and use the isolator switch to kick it off at any temp (i.e. water crossings). So far I am pleased with this operation. I like it much much better than the way the OEM setup is programmed.
Cheers,
Mike
Mine kicks on when the scangauge reads 209F. Before I fixed the overheating problem, it was on all the time, because I was constantly running 209 or higher at idle.
Replaced radiator, fan clutch, thermostat, and finally got fed up with it. Took it to a buddy of mine here in Bristol with a shop and told him "This truck doesn't leave your shop till it's fixed, no matter the cost." (He's a good friend, so I can say that)
$240 and a water pump later, all better. I haven't hit 209 since, even after idling for 20 minutes. Thus, I haven't heard my condensor kick on in awhile apart from turning on AC.
Replaced radiator, fan clutch, thermostat, and finally got fed up with it. Took it to a buddy of mine here in Bristol with a shop and told him "This truck doesn't leave your shop till it's fixed, no matter the cost." (He's a good friend, so I can say that)
$240 and a water pump later, all better. I haven't hit 209 since, even after idling for 20 minutes. Thus, I haven't heard my condensor kick on in awhile apart from turning on AC.
varova87 said:
Yep that is the other piece of the puzzle I left out. It will kick on at that temp even with the AC off in the stock configuration.
FWIW my truck runs average 188*~193*. I haven't gone over 200* since the cooler temps outside and that is climbing a 9% grade for about 7 miles coming home. What temps are you recording?
varova87 said:
What was wrong with the previous water pump and what brand did you replace it with?
I also think it is hard for people to compare temps, everyone is in different climates. I believe trucks run differently, possible the 03/04 also runs warmer from what I have seen.
For what its worth, I was tending to overheat on very long steep grades to the point I was pulling over out of caution. I switched to synthetic oil (Mobil1) and this tendency was greatly reduced. I dont pull over anymore.
Steve
Steve
My '03 runs differently than my '04. I run the same oil in both and am stumped as to why the fan kicks in on my '03 and not in my '04 when both trucks are at idle at the same time. The motor in the '03 is not overheating; however, you can feel a difference standing next to the two. The '03 had a new radiator installed last year and I am wondering if a new water pump would help. What indicators should I look at for the water pump to determine if a new one would help? Also interested in knowing the charecteristics of a viscous clutch. If a motor is brought to temp and then turned off, wouldn't the fan show resistance to turning by hand as the fluid inside the clutch is still warm?
what temps do you get on the two?
I thought the water pump would weep coolant when it is going bad.
I thought the water pump would weep coolant when it is going bad.
Good info That I found here... Im also having problems keeping the rover cold, I done everything posible and still runs Hot 215F and 220F... If i go on the hwy temp drop if I go under 35mph she gets hot. Still got the plastic piece of crap as a t/state. Im planing on doing the inline new version soon!!! I will try to post some videos and pictures!!!! Thanks again!
I replace my t/state already with a standar plastic type about a year ago, also clean my radiator on the outside bcz it was super dirty, install an extra electric fan that kick in around 204 also trick the fan clutch and stay on all the time, I know I know, the mpg will go down.. Well Or i try to get the temp down or blow the motor? LOL, so I end up doing this and guess what? she runns even hotter on idle LOL It dont matter if both fans are on.... Shes driving me nuts. so far, thers no leaks and the oil is fine, Always used sintetic mobil1 and knn oil filter... she go around 140,000 miles and never done any head repair.. Also shes one of the bad vin# with the oil pump problem, I got a new pump already just in case (0_o)..... I own this truck for about 4 years now.... No codes at all and no amigos at all, shes been a good rover all the time!!!!!
Way to bring a thread back!
read the rave as to how the thermostat works. It makes sense that it runs hotter at idle. The thermostat thinks its colder outside (cooler coolant returning to it) so it 'bumps' the temperature up. Do the inline thermostat mod. It has made my truck much more reliable.
read the rave as to how the thermostat works. It makes sense that it runs hotter at idle. The thermostat thinks its colder outside (cooler coolant returning to it) so it 'bumps' the temperature up. Do the inline thermostat mod. It has made my truck much more reliable.