Head studs rather than head bolts?

Brian Dickey

Member
Nov 15, 2008
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Wenatchee, WA
Looks like it's that time for a HG as I have two leaks now (one on each side). Any one have pros/cons to using studs rather than the standard head bolts? D & D has a stud kit for the Rover 4.0L.
 

JohnB

Well-known member
Oct 18, 2007
2,295
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Oregon
Plus I bet you would have to pull the engine. I doubt there is enough clearance to slide on the heads.
 

FB111

Well-known member
Jun 7, 2004
475
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Cant get any torque to them without the threat of tearing the threads out of the block IMO. ?????
Most "costly" aluminum block engines use studs. Repeated threading and unthreading of a steel bolt into an aluminum block isn't the greatest idea. I don't think you find stretchy disposable bolts on more expensive engines either. They would lean more torwards higher grade chrome moly studs.
 

Durt D1ver

Well-known member
Jan 14, 2008
649
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Jersey Shore
JohnB said:
Plus I bet you would have to pull the engine. I doubt there is enough clearance to slide on the heads.

Then just put the stud in question in after placing the head on. The main reason people use stretch bolts instead of studs is cost. A set of ARP studs are almost double the cost of head bolts. That and people aren't aware of the advantages of studs, or just dont feel they're worth the cost on a non-performance engine
 

JohnB

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Oct 18, 2007
2,295
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Oregon
Durt D1ver said:
Then just put the stud in question in after placing the head on. The main reason people use stretch bolts instead of studs is cost. A set of ARP studs are almost double the cost of head bolts. That and people aren't aware of the advantages of studs, or just dont feel they're worth the cost on a non-performance engine

True. My luck I'd screw the threads up tightening it down. Of course you could do the double nut trick.
 

landrovered

Well-known member
Nov 28, 2006
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Studs work and are available at almost the same cost as stretch bolts.

All the above excuses not to use them is bunkum.
 

JohnB

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Oct 18, 2007
2,295
12
Oregon
landrovered said:
Studs work and are available at almost the same cost as stretch bolts.

All the above excuses not to use them is bunkum.

Great.

So what is the torque for nuts? Same gasket(composite)or the older metal style ones?
 

jymmiejamz

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Dec 5, 2004
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Los Angeles, Ca
What's wrong with the stretch bolts? If you don't want to use stretch bolts I would just use the older style bolts and gaskets rather than studs, but that's just me.
 

landrovered

Well-known member
Nov 28, 2006
4,289
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JohnB said:
Great.

So what is the torque for nuts? Same gasket(composite)or the older metal style ones?

The stud manufacturer supplied the torque data and sequence on the head with the studs (D&D Fabrications). The gasket was composite.

I personally feel that the metal gaskets are better and see no reason why it could not be used with the studs. I am going to use metal gaskets and studs on the rebuild of my 4.2L.
 

landrovered

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Nov 28, 2006
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jymmiejamz said:
What's wrong with the stretch bolts? If you don't want to use stretch bolts I would just use the older style bolts and gaskets rather than studs, but that's just me.

There are many things I don't like about stretch bolts.

First the 15 ft/lbs + 90 + 90 is a pain in the ass.

Secondly the amount of force to get the last 90 on the bolts is not always consistant. It does not feel right to me to have one bolt require more force than the next one.

Also you can't back them up if you go too far on one by a degree or two.

You cannot reuse the bolts.

The bolts are harder to get out because they stick and then break loose instead of releasing in a consistant manner.

They don't seem to work given the outstanding results with rover head gasket failures.
 
landrovered said:
They don't seem to work given the outstanding results with rover head gasket failures.

The TTY bolts were introduced in 1995. We didn't begin to see wholesale failures until the DII. While it's not uncommon for the DIs to need headgaskets, most of the time it was due to valve guide fouling, not head gasket failures.

Don't follow ARP's torque specs, call Mark, he has the correct info.
 

phowie50

Member
Jan 18, 2007
23
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OR
Reviving this thread to note that ARP will make head studs for the 4.0 L Discovery 2. I haven't seen anyone else mention ARP in the head gasket threads and thought offering this info might give owners an alternate supplier.

We sent ARP the specs, they happily made the studs and 2nd day aired them to us for $200. Turn around for the custom order was under 5 days. They're in my '02 and I'm hopeful that the truck won't need gaskets again... ever.

-Peter
 

Durt D1ver

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Jan 14, 2008
649
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Jersey Shore
phowie50 said:
We sent ARP the specs, they happily made the studs and 2nd day aired them to us for $200. Turn around for the custom order was under 5 days.

They're off the shelf, part# 124-4003

they're $129 at summit racing.
 

KyleT

Well-known member
Mar 28, 2007
6,059
8
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Fort Worth, TEXAS
ok, revising my statement, as long as you use the proper lube with the studes and nuts, they should work well. to get the rears in on a disco, thread the last two in after you set the head down and double nut the stud to tighten it to spec, then torque them down to spec. i think i will try them if i do another head job.
 

phowie50

Member
Jan 18, 2007
23
0
OR
Durt D1ver said:
They're off the shelf, part# 124-4003

they're $129 at summit racing.
I know the motor is basically the same throughout its 40 whatever year existence, but are the studs specs the same for the various generations/iterations? Over the phone, ARP didn't think so.

-P

edit: To make clear, upon asking ARP for studs for my '02 4.0 Liter, they said they didn't have them, but would make them if I sent the specs. ARP did say studs were available over the counter for the 3.5 and 3.9. Based on this and the lack of 4.0 Liter forum posts saying they'd used ARP head studs, I assumed there was a difference between the specs of studs for the difft generations of the motor. Am I wrong?
 
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Durt D1ver

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Jan 14, 2008
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Jersey Shore
According to D&D, they're the same studs across all rover v8's. I thought the only difference between the 3.9 and 4.0 was the intake, deletion of a distributor, going to gems.