So I just installed a t box's shifter from a disco 1 in my 2001 disco 2. Haven't put the console back in yet because I cut the hole for the shifter lever a little big, took a lot to get it to fit. I was wondering what you guys have used to seal in between the plate and the shifter so no water can get up in during a high water crossing? I've got about 1/2" open around the a shifter that I'd like to full up, but driving testing without the console in I notice that the shifter has a little movement to it. Not the handle, but the whole thing as it's attached to the transfer case and it moves slightly different than the body does at times. If you have pics of your solution, please post them?
d1 cdl in d2 plate sealing???
- Thread starter Hugh166
- Start date
I did the same thing.
I used high temp silicone mat with double sided tape on one side. Used a heat gun to make it pliable and settle, after that the heat from the tunnel will help keep it sealed. You may want to add some more double side tape, I suggest getting marine application double sided tap (it is super thin and the adhesive is very very sticky.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#8977K32
I used high temp silicone mat with double sided tape on one side. Used a heat gun to make it pliable and settle, after that the heat from the tunnel will help keep it sealed. You may want to add some more double side tape, I suggest getting marine application double sided tap (it is super thin and the adhesive is very very sticky.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#8977K32
The whole drive train is going to move independent to the body due to the drive train's mounting. If there is a lot of movement check the transfer case/transmission mounts. Those mounts do tear, the material is vulcanized to the two stud plates.
Here is a link. Post #15 is what I did:
http://www.discoweb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=46658&highlight=9mm
http://www.discoweb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=46658&highlight=9mm
Which thickness did you use, I am going to be installing a CDL in my truck very soon.
http://www.discovery2.co.uk/downloads/D1-D2_cdl_install.doc
I used brt9813 oem gaitor. Worked well and was $20 iirc
Biggest issue was the h/l arm not lining up. Using the shift housing from e donor solves this easily.
Rrc shifter is nicer too. Has a vibration damper weight on it. No noise transfer in the cabin. Unlike the d1 version on my 99.
I used brt9813 oem gaitor. Worked well and was $20 iirc
Biggest issue was the h/l arm not lining up. Using the shift housing from e donor solves this easily.
Rrc shifter is nicer too. Has a vibration damper weight on it. No noise transfer in the cabin. Unlike the d1 version on my 99.
1/16"
if the D1 shifter's gaiter is torn, buy a new gaiter and flange. use the flange as a template, then sandwich the stock gaiter first, then the silicone, then the flange. load the shifter up with penetrating fluid and some grease before you button everything up.
gaiter FRC6872
flange FRC6873
you gys that go thru mud and water may want to use some additional adhesive on the tunnel sheet metal before you tuck it down under the carpet.