Nice. I am tempted to cut panels and then dzus fasten them with a flange back in place... just to make it easier to work on.
Though its hesitate to use a cutoff wheel near the top of the tank
The tank isn’t too bad to remove compared to many. I have a car that I have to remove the rear axle to get the tank out. It’s a total PIA. Then, after doing it and getting it back together the fuel pick-up got clogged by debris the shop that relined (old mild steel tank) it left inside and I had to do the whole job again, Lesson learned… assure the tank, even a new or refurbished, is clean before installing it.
It definitely makes me nervous having sparks near a fuel tank, particularly one that isn’t containing the vapor. We all know a near empty tank has more potential to go the wrong than a full one. Years ago, in my former career, I responded to an auto repair shop that had a leak in a fuel tank catch fire as the mechanic was removing it when a handheld shop light ignited the vapor. It was almost empty as well, I would guess less than a quart of fuel in the tank. It was on the lift when it ignited. Fortunately the mechanic handled it well and they had fire extinguishers on hand. They extinguished it before we arrived. Also fortunately, his only injuries was burned hair (was wearing glasses) from the initial flash when the vapor ignited. His eyebrows looked pretty funny for a while. The mechanic was an old high school buddy.
I recently had a D1 that was leaking vapor from the filler neck itself as it had a slight imperfection in the plastic weld at the top. That was very challenging to figure out and caused me to have the tank out twice. This one has a skid plate in the rear which made it even more “fun.” But, I’d be happy to swap a D1 tank 3 times compared to one time on the aforementioned car.