RRC Oil Pump Copper O-Ring Part Name?

StangGT5

Well-known member
Feb 4, 2019
295
131
Atlanta, GA
What would you call the circled copper o-ring? I need a new one to stem an oil drip, and want to make sure I get the right part. This is for a 92 RRC.

PXL_20231001_212536148.jpg
 

Blueboy

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
3,212
462
Back in the USA; Rockwood, PA
What would you call the circled copper o-ring? I need a new one to stem an oil drip, and want to make sure I get the right part. This is for a 92 RRC.

View attachment 65409
Unfortunately can’t answer the question with any certainty yet it looks very similar to the copper crush washer on the oil pan drain plug. Guessing you compared the two yet if not might give it a shot. I’d give RN a call and they can look it up for you.
 

StangGT5

Well-known member
Feb 4, 2019
295
131
Atlanta, GA
Unfortunately can’t answer the question with any certainty yet it looks very similar to the copper crush washer on the oil pan drain plug. Guessing you compared the two yet if not might give it a shot. I’d give RN a call and they can look it up for you.
That's good advice. I actually pulled a schematic from Rimmer Bros and ordered via part number from Lucky 8 though. We'll see what I get when it actually shows up.
 

StangGT5

Well-known member
Feb 4, 2019
295
131
Atlanta, GA
Okay I received the part, well actually 10 of them, ETC8833 is the exact copper o-ring for the relief valve plug. However, when observing the leak I noticed I had a front main seal leak too. Bummer, because it was new and pretty sure it was a Genuine LR part. It ended-up having a small tear. Not sure if that was my mistake or I just missed when I was doing the top end rebuild. The harmonic balancer had a little wobble too, but barely noticeable for so many pulleys stacked together.

PXL_20231019_012801107.jpg

So, I set off to replace the copper o-ring, front main seal, and swap the balancer. I bought a new balancer from Atlantic British, but I ended up having to pull one from my parts truck with half the mileage. The one AB sent has too short of a snout and the timing marks are clocked way off. Yay.

Popping the old seal out with a taped screw driver was easy. Putting the new one in with the cover on the truck was horribly time consuming. I ended up using the crank bolt with a balljoint press cup, which of course bottomed-out against the crank nose (4.6) mere millimeters from where the seal needed to be. So, I engineered a slightly longer cup with a PVC coupling and a cap.

After that hurdle I went to I went to disassemble my pulley stack to swap the new balancer in just to notice it had WAY too short of a snout to work. It says it fits 89-95 RRCs, but it sure doesn't match the 91 parts truck's or the intended recipient 92's. Thanks Atlantic British!

Well, now I had to remove the balancer from the parts truck. The bolt wouldn't budge so, on top of the belts and PS pulley, I had to pull the radiator to get my M18 impact on the bolt. Fun times. Oh, and the donor balancer was a pain too because the mating surface for the pulleys was rusty. Had to press them apart and back together with my stack. I have a funky v-belt + tiny ribbed alternator belt set up on the 4.6. I honestly hate the multibelt setup even more after this fiasco.

Here's some pics of the old, donor, and "new" crank balancers.

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I carefully loosened the plug with a 26MM so it didn't rocket out from spring tension. Lost a handful of oil quick swapping the o-ring but it's in there now, along with the new seal and better balancer. It could've been worse but man these v-belt/distributor trucks are just archaic to me. Makes me want German cars again.

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Blueboy

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
3,212
462
Back in the USA; Rockwood, PA
Good to hear you got it sorted! Have the same belt setup on my engine as well. Didn’t realize there is a harmonic balancer on the pulley stack. As mentioned before proper parts are getting harder to source.
On German cars the saying goes on their design: The right way, the wrong way, the German way! After my initial attempt failed to simply change the air filter on my 2004 A4 1.8, my mechanic said it took him almost an hour to change!
 

terryjm1

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Jan 23, 2011
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Seems almost every project I work on (Land Rover and Triumph) there is always something like this that rears it’s ugly head.
 
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StangGT5

Well-known member
Feb 4, 2019
295
131
Atlanta, GA
Seems almost every project I work on (Land Rover and Triumph) there is always something like this that rears it’s ugly head.
Not to tempt fate, but I hold out hope that if I cut that ugly head off enough on these kind of jobs there's a finite supply of ugly heads to appear in the future..
 
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StangGT5

Well-known member
Feb 4, 2019
295
131
Atlanta, GA
Good to hear you got it sorted! Have the same belt setup on my engine as well. Didn’t realize there is a harmonic balancer on the pulley stack. As mentioned before proper parts are getting harder to source.
On German cars the saying goes on their design: The right way, the wrong way, the German way! After my initial attempt failed to simply change the air filter on my 2004 A4 1.8, my mechanic said it took him almost an hour to change!
That's funny. I cut my teeth on early 2000s VWs/Audis. The "service mode" design of the front end it daunting, but I generally liked them. The CVT transmission made its debut in FWD B6 A4s...now that was an absolute turd.
 
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StangGT5

Well-known member
Feb 4, 2019
295
131
Atlanta, GA
Besides a FWD car in our area is pretty useless in the Winter, the CVT concept on any vehicle was a FUBAR. Not sure why anyone would have a non Quattro Audi.
I never understood the FWD Audis. AWD is the whole point. I think it was Audi going the 318ti route; cost engineering. Mercedes did it with the C280, but at least it was still RWD.
 
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