Costa Rica May 2023

Tugela

Well-known member
May 21, 2007
4,763
564
Seattle
Finally making time to share notes about my recent trip to Costa Rica. It was my first visit, it was far too short, and I can't wait to return. I've visited 30 countries and this was one of the most enjoyable places to which I have traveled, I cannot recommend it enough. With only nine days my wife and I planned a modest itinerary, splitting our time between the less-developed beaches of Guanacaste (the north Pacific coast) and Monteverde cloud forest. Flew in and out of Liberia, which is the most convenient international airport if you plan to spend most of your time in the northern regions.

We rented a Toyota Hilux 2.5 diesel manual 4x4. It was a boring truck to drive with dull feedback and zero panache, but I was glad to be back in a manual and the engine was superb. It idled up hills in second with both feet on the floor. I welcomed the near total absence of driver conveniences and intrusive technology that clutters most modern cars. As an old-school manual guy who learned to drive using the handbrake, the hill start feature was a low-stress refinement. We were glad to have 4wd and low range for some of the rougher tracks we explored and for traversing the Cordillera Tilaran, which had some spicy conditions. Over the entire trip we used a half tank of fuel. Next time we go back we'll probably rent a Prado. I did get a ride in a brand new Fortuner but didn't care for it as much.

IMG_20230504_125554628.jpg

The Pacific coast has a lot of resort-focused towns that attract loud, drunk American tourists so we sought out the quieter stretches, staying in modest accommodations near Playa Conchal. For four days we enjoyed deserted beaches, swimming in the ocean, and spending the heat of the day by/in the pool. We met a family from Switzerland who was on year two of their western hemisphere overland journey in a Sprinter van. They had spent the first year in North America and were en route to South America, planning eventually to sell their van in Argentina and fly home.

IMG_20230503_090848902.jpg

Japanese 4x4s were the clear preference for locals and they were diverse, from new, tricked-out midsize pickups to Cruisers and the endearing Jimny to older vehicles. I spied a fair number of Landies, including Series, middle-aged Defenders, a couple D2s, a couple D3s, a smattering of RRS, and even a new Defender. I'd never seen one with this finish, what appeared to be bare metal but with the decals intact:

IMG_20230508_171540475.jpg

IMG_20230502_095832202.jpg

IMG_20230506_143339792.jpg

Monteverde was a delight. At 5,000 feet it was cooler and the diversity of life was spectacular. We hiked in three different nature reserves, all within a 5-6 mile radius, and each was markedly different in flora and fauna. We enjoyed an afternoon with the Murcielago Falls to ourselves, took a night walk in the cloud forest, and I went canyoneering. There is so much to see and experience in this area, I wish we'd planned for more time here.

P5080350.jpeg

I also spent a day rafting the Tenorio River, which was a blast. In addition to the exciting whitewater we saw monkeys, toucans, tiger herons, and the Jesus lizard. Costa Rica is a whitewater paradise, I could plan another three-week trip just for rafting. If you've been thinking about it, just go. This is a wonderful country. Warm, friendly people. Amazing landscapes. So much to experience. Next up: heading back to Greenland in June.

DSC_0063.jpeg