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I ran into a similiar problem on my exMOD. The previous or his/her previous owner had switched the mounting brackets, which caused the driveshaft to be way off center. Corrected that after replacing the motor mounts and all looks pretty happy now. Happy hunting.

Meridian does sell direct to the public, and they have been very good over the years. I just redid one this past weekend. I ordered it, had it the next day. Prior to this box leaking, I tried Lucas which slowed the process for a couple of months.

You might want to check with Gordon at Inland Rovers, he used to have them. http://www.inlandrovers.com/

Ren, I check it out. I have been searching for any possible vacuum leaks and checked the booster by removing the connection and attaching a vacuum pump. I was only seeing a max. of 10"hg while pumping it up. It did appear to hold the 10"hg but would not rise to normal engine vacuum. Just...

Does anyone know what the pressure should be if testing the brake booster for vacuum leaks?

Box cutter.

That looks like it came from the Los Angeles area (Encino). How long has it been in Houston, and if for a period of time, was it there during the huricanes (water damage?). Looks pretty darn clean.

Good luck on the project. I would have your your friend read all of the threads related to that Rover, so he will have an idea of other potential issues. Good price even if another motor is order. There are a number of motors currently available on the West Coast, but assume they may...

I would assume that it this Red Rover: http://www.lrrforums.com/showthread.php?t=9709

Just saw this and thought this might be intersting to follow. Tata super cheap vehicle to the Rover line. http://news.yahoo.com/s/nm/20080910/india_nm/india354107

I ran my from the dash, under the carpet to the rear area, then up through the rear vent. Exiting the black rear side piece at the top and following the underside of the gutter rail to a rack mount. Up the rack mount and followed along the rack to the lights. I did not add a quick disconnect...

There is Inland Rovers in Riverside and West Coast Rovers in Mission Viejo. I have been to both with my RRC and have had very good success.

rumaki, Last year I had an 88'RRC and a 96'Disco rodded out for $60.00 each (LA costs). Later I replaced the 88' with a new radiator for less than $400.00. $350.00 sounds way high unless you are paying for them to do all of the labor of removal and installation.

I too have wondered about this. One interesting thing on mine is, if I touch (slight pressure) the vacuum line from the tee to the manifold it will chance my idle. I have replaced all of the hoses and tee recently, and checked for any interference, clogging, or leaks. I find it wierd that...

There shouldn't be vacuum at idle. It only happens once you start opening up the throttle. Make sure that you check your advance and also your wires to make sure you have good connections. I did notice that your coil wire into the distrbutor is not covered very well. You can check for arcs...

You should have the tires on the ground to break the nuts free. I have encountered the same over tightening many times. Like was said above, I carry the appropriate socket, an 18" breaker bar, but also have a 24" pipe (not for smoking). One time even with all of that, had to go to a shop an...

I would try removing the white/? from the rear of the ballast (closer to the firewall) and attach that to the positive on the coil. As for the vacuum advance, tightening it could change things a little. On mine it caused a little binding. This would only apply when hitting the gas and not at...

Jordan, I see a wire from your loom (white/?) attached to the ballast resistor. What is that? Also you will need to check your vacuum advance. It may have too much or too little, but this normally does not happen at idle. This is adjustable with a 3/32 allen wrench.

Sent you a private email with my telephone number if you need some help.

I have always been able to get them at 8:00 AM. I usually drop off my truck earlier to beat the OC traffic.